SHARE:  

Call Us Today: 435-259-8229

About Us

Range Creek and Desolation Canyon


Did you know that the same peoples who inhabited and left their marks in Desolation Canyon travelled further than just along the River corridor? They explored, hunted and lived in the canyons, valleys and mesas that make up the entire Tavaputs Plateau. This past September, two of our crew: Operations Manager, Brenda and River Guide, Zhanna got the opportuinity to join the Canyonlands Field Institute for a 3 day tour of Range Creek in the Tavaputs Plateau.

OUR RANGE CREEK TRIP

By Zhanna and Brenda


Where is Range Creek and why would we want to share our story with you? Range Creek is located deep in the Tavaputs Plateau. The same plateau that the Green River flows through in the Canyons of Desolation and Gray. Range Creek is a tributary to Gray Canyon. So, what makes Range Creek so special? For years a rancher named Waldo Wilcox kept secret the abundance of Fremont Culture sites and artifacts located in Range Creek. In 2003 he made the decision to share some of his secrets with the world and sold this area to the State of Utah. (Currently managed by the University of Utah Museum of Natural History.) This opened the area up for archaeologic research.


Late this past summer, thanks to a scholarship from a guest and Sheri Griffith we were given the opportunity to join CFI (Canyonlands Field Institute) on a guided 3-day Range Creek trip. We were looking forward to learning more of both the indigenous and western history in this area we had heard so much about. We had great guides and an archaeologist who had actually worked in Range Creek to guide us through. After a busy season, we were also looking forward to the opportunity to join a trip as “guests” and to have others cook for us, take care of us and give us the freedom to relax and enjoy the canyon. We just want to note that when a story is told no matter all the facts, you hear, you remember what is meaningful to you and it becomes your own experience which could be said of all the trips we run.

Our trip started in Price, Utah where we received a private tour of The Prehistoric Museum. We learned about the larger scale of human history plants and animals. Starting thousands of years ago when the Paleoindians hunted mega fauna such as mammoths using weapons called atlatl’s. By using a wooden extension, a spear or dart could be thrown faster, farther and with more penetration. (CFI had replicas for us at camp that we were able to try out) The focus then turned more to the Fremont Culture as well as artifacts found in Range Creek.


One of the first things we noticed on the bumpy road into Range Creek is that the upper end of the Canyon is much greener and lusher than the lower end of the canyon near the river that we are more familiar with, though still very rugged terrain. Jamie (The archaeologist) commented that her job as an archaeologist is to share what she knows “without transposing her own meaning” of the various sites we would visit. So, who were the Fremont? The Fremont Culture, named after the Fremont River at points occupied almost all of Utah. (The Fremont River was named after John C Fremont) With the amount of varied landscape and environmental conditions you can imagine they were not all the same and are not thought to be a single cohesive group. Some commonalities are, they foraged, grew corn, utilized gray ware pottery, had similar basketry, rock art, arrowheads, beads, stone-tools and utilized pit house type structures as well as granaries. 

As we drove along in the van, trying to take notes on the bumpy road, Jamie shared with us that finding artifacts and features help us to connect activities and what the day-to-day life of the Fremont might have looked like. (An artifact is a manmade thing that is transportable and a feature is something manmade that is not transportable.) Further down the road, we learned what constitutes a “site”, it was amazing to learn how many people thrived and sometimes struggled to survive in this canyon. (A single site is determined by the measurement of 15 meters. So, if there is a location where two features or artifacts are located more than 15 meters apart, they designate two different sites. There are currently over 500 known sites in Range Creek. In the first 4 days they surveyed they located 40-50!


By dating the artifacts, archaeologists have learned that some of the oldest sites used by these ancestral people are located on the valley floor. During this time, they thrived, food and water were abundant. Things like obsidian (stronger than chert) originating from Millard County and Malad, Idaho was found more frequently in the apex of these people. The more recent sites are located up higher in places very difficult/impossible to access. Based on artifacts found and not found in these locations life must have been more difficult during this time perhaps due to fewer resources and more competition for those resources.


We all have people who teach us or sometimes we learn from the past. Some “tricks of the trade”. In their grayware pottery, you may notice little black dots. Those black dots are crushed basalt which helps keep it from shattering in the heat. Another “trick” is the method of building a granary, they begin with a sandstone base, then add Juniper bark followed by an adobe floor. Why the juniper? The fragrant bark disguises the smell of the other items that may be inside. Many plants were for medicinal purposes, tobacco and food. Pine nuts are high in lipids. Some plants like rabbit brush and grease wood could be used to make digging sticks.


At the Wilcox Ranch, now serving as the Range Creek Field Station, we learned more about the cowboys and early settlers. It was amazing to hear about all the different settlers who made this canyon their home. Some, like the notorious cattle baron Preston Nutter, who also has history in Desolation Canyon and Nine Mile Canyon. The Downards, and Ben Morris who also spent time upstream at Rock Creek Ranch spent time here. And of course, the outlaws like Flat Nose George Curry. We really began to see that like these canyons, although so remote, those who lived/passed through here were very interconnected.

We came into this trip with the knowledge that Desolation Canyon is on the National Historic Register. We left with more of an understanding of what that really means. We are just scratching the surface of what life here before us looked like, but came away with new desire to honor these people, by sharing their stories and protecting these places to the best of our knowledge and ability. This is all of our national history and heritage.


Last, we would also be doing a great disservice if we left the current Ute Tribe out of this story. Since time immemorial, the Desolation Canyon region has also been home to the Ute Indian Tribe.


*If you do get the opportunity to visit Range Creek, the best way other than travelling back in time, is go with someone who really understands the story of the place. It is a place where not everything is bold and in your face like Mesa Verde. The Fremont left no written history we don’t know their stories and the places are often well hidden and less recognizable.


*Special Thank you to Brandi our Diné Trip Leader for leading us and sharing her heritage with us and, to Karla, founder of CFI for working so hard to make this trip happen.

The Canyonlands Field Institute offers tours of Range Creek each year.

Information About CFI Range Creek Trips

New for Fall 2025! Fall Hiking Tour of Desolation Canyon. More Details Coming Soon!

Information About SGRE Desolation Canyon Trips

Sheri Griffith Expeditions

800-332-2439

435-259-8229

info@griffithexp.com

Contact Us
Facebook