January gardening is slow gardening—reading garden mags in a favorite armchair, poring over seed catalogs, dreaming of the garden opportunities to come.

photos by K Edgington

How liberating to turn the calendar page to a new year! Drought, pests, and weeds are in the past. The new year holds only hope and promise. We arm ourselves with resolutions, guideposts to keep us on track. A chance comment by a gardening friend gave me pause. He talked about the unexpected pleasure of finding that the leaves of his Eclipse Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophpylla ‘Eclipse’) had turned from black to a rich orange-burnished burgundy as the frost nipped the air (photo 1). He savored the sight, and shared a photo with me. This year I am resolved to watch for such unexpected pleasures, to spend the time in my garden and on the paths that will put them in my line of sight, to attend to those moments and record them in my memory (and on my camera). Here are a few unexpected pleasures from this past year.

As a friend and I ambled along the beautiful paths at Kingwood Center Gardens we passed a mature stand of fir trees (Abies koreana). Low-growing branches held a gorgeous array of steel-blue fir cones (photo 2). We were captivated and spent some time admiring and photographing them. Fir trees can be identified by their soft, blunt-tipped needles and upright cones. Beautiful!

While weeding a bark-mulched bed last spring I chanced upon an unusual mushroom—likely a parasol or false-parasol mushrooms with slits in its cap caused by environmental conditions (photo 3). I marveled at its flower-like shape and delicate beauty and spent some time enjoying the sight. Mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of certain fungi and those delicate-looking gills release spores that allow them to reproduce. Their underground mycelia break down organic matter into plant-usable nutrients. No weeding out this beautiful fungus!  

As I foraged in my gardens for flowers and greens to fill vases this fall, I encountered deep purple-black fruits on my Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’ (photo 4). Who knew! The dark fruits highlighted by the chartreuse foliage took my breath away. Definitely an unexpected pleasure, and I enjoyed the fruits for weeks on end in my vases. While not human food, the fruits are a bird favorite.

Patience rewards the gardener with beautiful sights and delights. After tending a cactus planter for years, this spring the Mammillaria polythele sported a halo of red buds (photo 5) that burst into a profusion of bright flowers. It never failed to make me smile when passing. I am hoping that this was the first of an annual floral display.

Unexpected pleasures aren't necessarily a garden vignette or a beautiful plant. They can be the way the light filters through the trees, an assortment of fall leaves floating down a stream (photo 6), a dragonfly flitting from flower to flower. The key is to watch for these moments, to pause and savor them, to store them in our memories. A good plan for 2025. Look Around! 

K Edgington

Tsuga canadensis cones, silhouette, and needles

photos by E Barth-Elias

Visualize walking on a snowy path through one of our local parks and coming upon a serene cover of evergreens. These towering trees with downward-sloping boughs and delicate, lacy needles form a cathedral-like room that is awe-inspiring, yet comforting. Imagine a deer seeking shelter from the elements.

Eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), a stately, soft-needled conifer in the pine (Pinaceae) family, is valued for its longevity and shade tolerance. Also known as the Canadian hemlock, it is native to southern Canada, the northeastern United States, and the Appalachian Mountains to Georgia. As such, you’ll find it in Summit and Cuyahoga Counties, but planted in many areas throughout Ohio.

Eastern Hemlocks are identified by their soft needles with a pair of white lines on the underside, tiny cones, and reddish-brown textured bark. Due to its shade tolerance, the Eastern hemlock is often found on northern slopes and in the understory of taller trees. Forming a dense canopy, it likes moist conditions, and is frequently situated near stream banks in acidic soil. In older-growth forests it grows in groups that can be quite picturesque and inviting, providing shelter to both man and animal. A shallow root system allows it to grow over and around rocky terrain. 

The Eastern hemlock can grow well over 75’ tall and live for hundreds of years. Remarkable specimens can be found scattered throughout its range, the largest being the Cheoah hemlock, near Highlands, NC, which stands an impressive 159’ tall. The tallest hemlock on record was the Usis hemlock, which topped out at 173’ but died in the 2000s, a victim of the woolly adelgid. Unfortunately, the Eastern hemlock is experiencing a severe range reduction caused by this invasive pest. Steps are being taken to control the invaders and preserve these treasures. (More on this threat in the accompanying article.) The oldest living Eastern hemlock is at least 651 years old and was discovered in 2023 in northwestern Pennsylvania. Good luck to this grand dame.

Historically, the hemlock’s tannin-rich bark was used in tanning hides, enhancing water and rot resistance while imparting an attractive deep red-brown tint. Many people falsely assume the Eastern hemlock is poisonous due to its association with Socrates, who met his end by drinking hemlock made from the toxic biennial weed (Conium maculatum), not the tree.

Hemlock can provide important shelter for wintering animals since the stands reduce snow depth and block wind. Considered an "ecological keystone" species, 90 bird species and 50 mammal species use hemlock stands for food and protection including snowshoe hares, porcupines, owls, and even bobcats. Read about it HERE.  

The Eastern hemlock is considered near threatened, so take care if you have any locally. Available variations include dwarf shrubs, weeping trees, and variegated forms. Keep seedlings or young trees well-watered during drought and don’t remove trees that provide preferred shade. Be vigilant for signs of the woolly adelgid and treat accordingly or leave the bigger jobs to professionals. (Read about controls HERE.) We want this tree to be around for the next 500 years…. Or more! 

 J Gramlich

The white woolly material secreted by the woolly adelgid provides good cover.

photos by Adisak Mitrprayoon

What if I said there was a miniscule creature—less than ½ inch long— so powerful it could destroy a tree 300 times its size in a few years—trees that should survive for generations? Science fiction? Sadly, the hemlock woolly adelgid (Adelges tsugae) (HWA) is very real and that destructive. This aphid-like insect, despised by everyone (probably even their mothers, and they only have mothers—more about that later), is right now busily massacring the Eastern hemlock population across the eastern U.S. from Maine to Georgia. Yep, it’s awful, but don’t blame the bug. Like its fellow invasive non-native, the emerald ash borer, these bad bugs are just in the wrong dang town…and whose fault is that?

When Mother Nature goes out of whack, point the finger at...us. First spotted in Richmond, Virginia in the 1950s, HWA likely arrived in the U.S. on Japanese weeping hemlocks imported by wealthy gardeners in the 1920s (no import controls then). These folks’ quest for unusual specimens went spectacularly wrong. In its native eastern Asia, HWA is controlled by natural predators and the hemlocks’ natural resistance; these same factors render HWA a non-issue in the Pacific northwest. Sadly, the eastern U.S. is a different story.

Eastern and Carolina hemlocks are the only species of hemlock that are not HWA-resistant, and there are no natural HWA predators in the eastern U.S.—a double whammy. Although adult HWAs spend most of their life fixed to a hemlock branch, eggs and crawlers are disseminated from March-July via birds, animals, wind and humans. HWA is currently present on native hemlocks in about half of their U.S. eastern range, killing trees in 4-10 years if unchecked.

HWA is easily detected by the white “woolly” material found on the underside of hemlock twigs. The insects secrete the waxy wool, which hides them from predators and helps retain moisture. Hidden under this wool, they suck sap from the base of the tree’s needles with their proboscis, depriving the tree of nutrients, and possibly also injecting poisonous saliva. As feeding continues, needles dry out and fall, buds are killed, and the lowest limbs of the tree die first. Trees weakened by HWAs are also more susceptible to disease, wind damage and other insects.

The life cycle of the HWA is complex. They produce two generations a year, one that overwinters from July-March (sistens), and one in the spring lasting about 3 months (progrediens). All go through egg, nymph (4 instars) and adult stages, with most growth occurring from October-March. The sisten generation spends the summer as a nymph, in a state called aestivation; as the weather cools they begin feeding and developing their woolly cover, eventually laying 300 eggs each from February-March. Half of those eggs become adults with wings (sexuparae), who fly off in a futile search for a tigertail spruce to mate on—futile because these trees exist in Asia but not the U.S. They die, and oddly, many do so on beaches in New England. Read about it HERE.

The remaining eggs develop into wingless adults, who stay on the same branch for their lifetime, each eventually laying about 75 eggs that become the next generation of sistens. In the U.S. HWA reproduces parthenogenetically—without males.

You’ll read elsewhere in the Root about how wonderful and important Eastern hemlocks are, considered an “ecological keystone” species. These foundational trees provide invaluable shade canopy and are vital to our ecosystem: cooling water, providing habitat, and stabilizing soil. Losing these trees may mean losing the creatures that depend on them.  

The U.S. Forest Service began focusing on the HWA problem in 1992, and there are now a host of mechanical, biological and chemical tools being deployed to stop the spread. Learn about it HERE.

We’re dealing with a situation that was never meant to be (don’t mess with Mother Nature!). Just don't blame the bug. THIS VIDEO compares the Eastern hemlock situation with ash trees, in the hope that if enough people become aware of what’s happening with HWA, our beautiful Eastern hemlock may be saved. For information on the HWA presence in Ohio check THIS out.

C Christian

Like most everything in modern life, ask a question and the answer is: “There’s an app for that.” Gardening is no exception, even though the process of planting, tending and harvesting the fruits (flowers and veggies) of our labors is light years away from cyberspace. It’s mind-boggling to think about the up-to-the-minute data, near-instant plant identification and disease diagnoses available to the gardener who knows how to look for credible information.

The resources seem endless. Apps exist for vegetable gardeners, indoor plant enthusiasts, tree lovers, those more research-oriented, those who want to connect to the wider gardening world. In order to find just the right site, you need to be clear on what you want, and what, if anything, you are willing to pay for the information.

Not all gardening apps are created equal. There are those that give a detailed view of the garden created in a digital format, such as SmartGardener. It offers user-created planting layouts, a journal enabling gardeners to keep track of planting times, watering schedules and guides on how to care for a variety of crops. It also notes which plants are companionable with each other and which are not. SmartGardener has a companion mobile app so you can take your digital layouts and directions right into the garden. Pricing structure provides 90-day and 360-day options.

Planter is also for the vegetable gardener. Using a square-foot gardening approach, its drag-and-drop planner automatically places the correct quantity of plants per the plant’s size and what is planted around it. It gives seed-starting dates, water and fertilizer reminders and harvest times. Its video blog covers many topics, such as recipes, ideas for gifts from the garden, harvesting herbs, plants for pets, and spotlights particular plants, especially problematic weeds such as poison hemlock and giant hogweed. It is downloadable and offers a free trial and subscriptions.

Planta focuses on houseplants. Its 7 million users have access to watering and fertilizing schedules, care instructions, community forums and picture identification. Its featured light meter depends on the user’s description of how much light a particular area gets, leaving that determination up to the user and not the associated experts. The Dr. Planta feature diagnoses plant diseases and how to treat diseased plants.

For a free, high-quality plant ID app consider Leafsnap. The app uses visual recognition software to identify plants, and includes a database of over 32,000 plants as well as use and care guides. Our Root editor sings the praises of this one. Another free ID app, this one used by our Root photo editor, is PlantNet. An avid hiker, she pulls it up regularly while on the trail.

I can’t omit PictureThis, the “Botanist in a Pocket.” Available online since 2017, the wildly popular app offers near-instantaneous access to the common and scientific names of more than 1,000 plants, including disease diagnosis, plant care and potential toxicity. I have been using PictureThis since 2018. It satisfies my need for information about a specific plant (Right now!) and, as the years have passed, its plant ID base has grown larger and more accurate. Subscriptions include individual and family plans. 

If this sampling of garden apps shows anything, it’s that there are a multitude options. Be careful when subscribing—there are some sound-alike rivals with different domains (.org vs .com, etc). Remember these questions: What is needed/wanted? How much detail is required? Is cost an issue? Is the information reliable and research-based? Considering it’s for the improvement of our gardening skills and knowledge, this kind of help is priceless.

S Vradenburg

photos by K Edgington

Just as winter weariness threatens to dull our senses, the supplies of phalaenopsis orchids show up on store shelves. Growers have figured out how to produce these beauties for reasonable prices, especially when considering their extended bloom time—from three to six months! But how to display these elegant flowers? Phalaenopsis orchids are lovely as an accent or focal point, but also intermingle well with other plants. Creating a mixed orchid planter takes their display to the next level.

When choosing an orchid for a mixed planter, look for clean foliage, multiple stems, and a number of unopened buds. Full-sized orchids add drama to mixed planters, but a miniature orchid is the ticket for dining table or smaller space display. Combine the orchid with tropicals or houseplants, even succulents, but choose plants with similar water and light requirements. Ferns mix beautifully with orchids, and are offered in a wide variety of textures and shades of green.

Any decorative container with the height required to hold the orchid pot below the pot rim will do. A drainage hole is preferable, but not necessary. Planters without a drainage hole should have a supply of pea gravel or similar material at the bottom to act as a water reservoir and must be watered carefully. 

Orchids require a pretty exacting watering strategy, preferring a two to three week dry period followed by a watering—much different from ferns and other tropical plants. For this reason, it works well to keep a mixed planter orchid in its own plastic pot. There are two ways to create the planter: keep all plants in their original pots and camouflage the pot rims with moss and foliage, or keep only the orchid in its pot and plant the remaining plants in potting soil. Read on for instructions on creating the latter.

Instructions for making a tabletop orchid planter

Supplies

• 1 or more miniature phalaenopsis orchids, preferably multi-stemmed
• A mixture of plants to combine with the orchid (5 to 6 will fill most planters). Purchase plants small in scale such as those sold for terrariums.
• Container
• Pea or similar gravel for containers without drainage holes
• Good quality potting soil (no fertilizers or water-absorbing crystals please)
• Sheet or reindeer moss (optional)
• Doo-dad such as shell, colorful rock, figure (optional)

1. Gather your materials and arrange the orchid and other plants in the container to determine a placement strategy. 
2. Remove all plants but the orchid, and place enough potting soil around the orchid container to anchor it in place.  
3. Place potting soil on the bottom of the container .
4. Plant the rest of your plants, shaking or teasing away and then discarding the soil from the original pots. The topmost roots should be just below the soil surface.
5. Fill in gaps with potting soil.
6. If using a doo-dad (technical term for a focal point object), put it in place.
7. Fill in surface gaps with sheet moss or reindeer moss as desired. The container plants will fill in these spaces as they grow.
8. If your container has a drainage hole, water well in a gentle stream until water comes out the bottom. Water planters without drainage holes until soil is moist to the bottom.

Keys to keeping your orchid container beautiful and thriving:

• Let the planter soil dry between waterings. Water containers with holes until the soil is saturated and water seeps from the drainage hole. Take care not to overwater containers without drainage holes. Water the orchid only once every 2 to 3 weeks.  
• For the longest bloom period, place the planter in bright light, but out of direct sunlight.
• Occasional misting with a spray bottle of water helps compensate for dry winter air. 
• Trim unsightly leaves and leaves that grow out of bounds.

Mixed orchid planters can live and grow for long periods (a year plus). When the orchid has stopped blooming it can be popped out and replaced with a new one.

This project is sure to satisfy the gardener in you, and you may end up making another, and another, and…

                         K Edgington

January Checklist:

• Reflect on what worked and didn’t work in your yard last year, and plan accordingly. Assess which trees/shrubs need pruning and reevaluate problem areas.
• Use Christmas tree branches to mulch perennials.
• Peruse seed and plant catalogs and plan your summer garden. It’s never too early to order your flower and vegetable seeds. Dream big!
• Check houseplants for spider mites and other indoor pests. MANAGING INSECTS ON INDOOR PLANTS: University of Minnesota Extension
• Clean and disinfect supplies used for seed starting.
• Take advantage of local indoor botanical gardens, greenhouses, and nature centers, many of which host special winter events.
• Keep your bird feeder stocked to enjoy the beauty and entertainment of winter birds.

J Gramlich