This February we focus on a special garden visitor—the hummingbird. Our Ohio hummingbird, hummingbird plants, creating a hummingbird haven...read on.

photo by E Barth-Elias

If you’ve packed away your gardening gear for the winter, perhaps you should retrieve your gardener’s hat. Yes, winter is a gardening season. It doesn’t involve hoes and hoses, but even the coldest of days offers opportunities for the garden-minded. 

Who doesn’t enjoy this season’s armchair tasks—poring through seed and nursery catalogs, making lists and purchases, and catching up on the latest information in garden magazines? Garden designs can be put to paper, and plant inventories updated.

Indoor seed starting is getting underway, and whether it’s a sunny window or a plant light system, there are seedlings or cuttings to tend. It’s too early to start tomatoes, zinnias, and such, but perennials, onions, small-seeded annuals like petunias, early spring crops like spinach, and others can soon be planted, and those that need stratification (a cold period that breaks dormancy and triggers germination) can be put in the fridge now.  At the least, get the seed starting area cleaned and prepped so when all those packets come in the mail seeding can commence.

Winter walks reward the gardener with beautiful vignettes and even some flowers. Witch hazels (Hamamelis spp.) are in flower, and the blooms of Lenten rose (Helleborus spp.) aren’t far behind—watch for them! Do incorporate some garden evaluation into your walks. Do the garden beds include winter interest in the form of shrubs, trees, or grasses? Are conifers strategically placed to provide substance and draw the eye? Make note of spots that are bare or need improvement. Look for signs of deer or rabbit browsing and apply repellants as needed.

Winter is also a good time to assess the pruning needs of trees and shrubs. Are there crossing or dead branches that need to be pruned out? Which shrubs need thinning? (Thinning involves cutting out a portion, usually 1/3, of the oldest/largest branches to create better air circulation, which promotes plant health.) Which trees or shrubs need pruning to improve form or aesthetics? Take a look now and be ready—the late winter/early spring pruning season approaches. 

Winter is a slower gardening season—a good time to ponder, to putter, to plant. A good time to recharge the battery after a busy fall and before a bustling spring. Look Around!

SEED STRATIFICATION: University of Illinois Extension

SEED STARTING DEMYSTIFIED: PennState Extension

WINTER IS A GOOD TIME TO PRUNE TREES AND SHRUBS: University of Minnesota Extension

K Edgington

Lonicera sempervirens 'Major Wheeler'

photo by E Barth-Elias

I’m not sure who loves trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) more—hummingbirds or humans. Both have good reason to adore this attractive, easy-care climber. This woody perennial, also known as trumpet vine, coral honeysuckle, or woodbine, is native to the southern and eastern regions of the United States. Its vigorous, twisting vines grows 10-20’ high and 3-6’ wide, with red, orange, or yellow trumpet-shaped blossoms, depending on the variety. Do not confuse it with its invasive counterpart, Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) which has smaller, yellow-white blooms and is more shrub-like. Several Asian varieties have naturalized in the United States and compete mightily with the natives.

The name lonicera pays homage to the 16^th century German botanist Adam Lonitzer and sempervirens is Latin for evergreen. In southern locales, it remains evergreen, but in Ohio and places north, it loses most of its leaves, leaving the remaining vines to provide winter structure.

A reliable, repeat bloomer with vibrant flowers, the trumpet honeysuckle should be more widely planted. It prefers full sun and well-drained soil that is neutral to basic, but can handle light shade, clay soil, salt, and even the occasional flood. Its first flush of blooms occurs in mid-spring (May) and continues sporadically through the summer and into the fall when flowers are replaced with red berries.

The trumpet-shaped flowers are prized by hummingbirds that not only feed on the nectar but also on tiny insects, such as ants, bees, gnats, and aphids, that it attracts. The abundance of these insects in turn helps to pollinate other nearby plants, including fruits and vegetables. Other birds are attracted to the honeysuckle, such as house finches who love nectar but can’t reach it via the long flower tunnel. Instead, they chew the base of the bloom to gain access. The fruits that form in the fall are a favorite of finches, Baltimore orioles, cedar waxwings, robins, and catbirds. Additionally, this honeysuckle serves as a host to both the larvae of the spring azure butterfly and the snowberry clearwing moth. Deer don’t seem to have interest and leave trumpet honeysuckle alone.

As one would expect with a twining vine, trumpet honeysuckle does appreciate some sort of trellis but will also thrive rambling free as a ground cover. A row of supports or a fence makes a great privacy wall that would be spectacular when in bloom! Be warned: the trumpet honeysuckle is highly flammable so keep that in mind when planting near houses and decks. It also lacks the fragrance of other honeysuckles and mildew and blackspot may appear during humid summers.

Here are a few cultivars of L. sempervirens you may want to try:

• Alabama Crimson (can we please call this Ohio Scarlet?) is becoming very common. This plant sports bright red blooms, grows 10-15’ tall, and is mildew resistant.
• John Clayton is a more compact variety, reaching 6-12’ with yellow flowers.
• Major Wheeler is a nonstop bloomer and hummingbird magnet with orange-red flowers. It is considered the longest-blooming variety.

Trumpet honeysuckle is one of those plants that, for the most part, you can just put in the ground and go about your business. This leaves plenty of time to watch the parade of birds, butterflies, and other surprises that will come your way. May can’t come soon enough for me!

J Gramlich

Male ruby-throated hummingbird

photo by Monika Bobek

Tiny, adorable, aerial acrobats zipping around your garden blooms. One moment daintily sipping from a nectar-filled flower, the next fiercely attacking his hapless relative who encroaches on his flowery territory—hummingbirds are just cool. So much life is packed into that minuscule, ever-moving body. Let’s look at a few reasons why this creature is so fascinating.

Over 350 species of hummingbirds are found in Mexico, Central and South America. Of the roughly 21 species that migrate to the U.S. and Canada in the spring, only

the ruby-throated hummingbird (Archilochus colubris) nests east of the Mississippi River. That's who may summer in your backyard if conditions are right. Six other species have been spotted in Ohio but are extremely rare and most likely lost (accidental).

Our tiny visitors, weighing .20 of an ounce and measuring 3 inches long, have shiny green heads and backs and white bellies. Their legs are too short for walking, but they can shuffle. A female’s tail is square and white-tipped, her throat is grey. The male’s tail is forked, and the species is named after the brilliant red color of his throat, which, interestingly, in certain light appears black. Watch HERE.

These diurnal creatures possess amazing flying skills—they stop on a dime, fly upside down and backward, and even hover—the only vertebrates who can do so. Moving their wings horizontally in a figure 8 motion instead of flapping them up and down allows hummingbirds to maintain constant power and incredible control. And they are fast—up to 30 mph in flight, 45 mph when diving. To reach those speeds their tiny wings beat from 70 to 200 times a second. Listen to the characteristic hum HERE.

And talk about tough. A creature that weighs under an ounce may fly 500+ miles over the Gulf of Mexico every spring and fall, a journey that takes 20 hours non-stop!

Hummingbirds require a LOT of fuel to maintain this type A lifestyle. Hummingbirds eat 5 or 6 times an hour, doubling their weight before migration. (They burn those extra grams during the trip.) Nectar, which contains about twice the sugar of a soft drink, is their preferred food. In seeking nectar, they follow the blooming patterns of flowers, acting as wonderful pollinators in the process. Hummingbird kindergarten doesn’t teach “share.” Hummingbirds view each other as competitors, and will fiercely fight for their favorite flowers (say that ten times fast). Watch HERE.

Other food sources include tree sap (which they might steal from a sapsucker’s sap-well), spiders, and insects, which they can snatch in mid-air. If you decide to supplement the hummingbird’s diet with a feeder, offering several small sources rather than one large one will help minimize warfare.

We love hummingbirds, but these feisty, solitary creatures don’t like each other. Males migrate north earlier than females to locate a territory, and perform elaborate courtship displays. Watch the ruby-throated hummingbird do his thing HERE. I’m not gonna lie—the wire-crested thorntail hummingbird has better moves: CHECK THEM OUT. 

Sadly, the male is not looking for a stable relationship. He quickly tweets "bye bye birdie" and the single mom-to-be builds her nest, incubates eggs and raises her babies without any help. The nest is crafted from plant fibers, grass and spider webs, about 1 inch deep and 2 inches wide, in a deciduous tree or shrub on a horizontal or descending branch 10-40 feet above ground. The interior, the size of a big thimble, is lined with down while the exterior is disguised with lichen and leaves. Mom lays 2 pea-sized eggs, which hatch after 10-14 days, and three weeks later she says "bye bye babies". Mom may repeat this cycle twice more in a season. Watch HERE.

And when Ohio temperatures drop, ruby-throated hummingbirds have another trick up their wings—a state close to hibernation (but on a short-term basis) called torpor. This allows the birds to slow down their super high metabolism and save energy on an as-needed basis, which may be just overnight. This is especially important as the bird’s sparse feathers (they have fewer than any other bird species) aren’t great at keeping them warm.

If you are a coffee lover, you may be interested to know that coffee farms in Mexico and Central America provide wonderful habitats for many species of hummingbirds (including the ruby-throated), according to the Smithsonian’s National Zoo and Biology Institute. Learn more here: Bird Friendly® coffee.

Watching hummingbird videos may tide you over until the real ones arrive, so here are two good ones—LESLIE THE BIRD NERD on ruby-throated hummingbirds and SIR DAVID ATTENBOROUGH, in his inimitable way, on all species. Enjoy!

C Christian

Female ruby-throated hummingbird

Photo by Monika Bobek

Even though temperatures keep us indoors and spring perches in the distant future, it's never too early to prepare a hummingbird welcome. Yes, it’s cold, but the spring migration will soon begin, with the first hummingbirds traveling to the southern states as early as March.

The prep is two-fold: getting birdfeeders out of storage and cleaning them to provide supplemental feeding, and ordering/planting native plants so these flitting, iridescent birds have the proper nourishment. Our job is to provide food consistently from the time they reach their summer nesting sites in the northern U.S. and Canada until they start their southward migration to their winter homes in Mexico and beyond.

The tiny birds, who beat their wings up to an astonishing 200 beats per second, need nectar to maintain their energy stores. That nectar can come from two places: flowers and supplemental feedings. While the sugar water in hummingbird feeders offers much of the high-energy food these tiny birds need, it should be a supplement, not the main source of food.

For that, your yard needs to be full of plants that nourish hummingbirds. Those plants, preferably natives, not only feed the birds but they also attract the insects that are an important part of a hummingbird’s diet. Audubon Society research confirms that the more native species of plants there are in one location, the more hummingbirds will visit.

The formula is simple for hummingbird nectar: one part sugar to four parts water. Weaker solutions won’t be as attractive to the birds and stronger may be harmful. Pour boiling water over the sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Store leftover nectar in the refrigerator. It is not necessary to color the nectar red; the dye can harm the birds. It is important that the feeders are red to attract the hummingbird. Never use honey, as it can cause a fatal, fungal disease. Clean the feeders every two to three days.

The University of Wisconsin has published a comprehensive list of hummingbird-friendly plants, such as trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), Eastern red columbine (Aquilegia canadensis), a variety of foxgloves (Digitalis spp.), coralbells (Heuchera sanguinea), Great Blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica) and penstemon (Penstemon spp.), both annual and perennial varieties.

Keep these principles in mind and you’ll go a long way to attracting and keeping hummingbirds:

• Hummingbirds prefer red and orange flowers (although some red flowers, such as red roses and geraniums, aren’t on the hummingbird's list).
• Planting tubular-shaped flowers accommodates their long beaks and tongues.
• Patches of the same flower provide the birds a larger foraging area, keeping them in the garden.
• Pruning your plants encourages blooms and prevents excessive woody growth.
• Designing your yard to provide blooms throughout the growing season meets their needs from arrival to departure.
• Planting hairy species offers the soft textures hummingbirds line their nests with.
• Providing nearby water gives hummingbirds a place to drink and bathe. 
• Ensuring there are trees nearby gives hummingbirds a place to roost and rest.

Persistence is also key. Some hummingbirds will find a place in your yard right away. It may take years for others to stop by. Once the birds find a spot, they usually keep visiting that spot, and often return to the same place year after year.

Few things are as gratifying as watching these tiny, flying jewels in your garden. Planting native species that attract hummingbirds also attracts other birds, boosting the biodiversity in your area and helping all the wildlife that call your area home.

Besides surrounding ourselves with beauty, giving nature such a boost is one of the best things we gardeners can do.

DESIGNING A HUMMINGBIRD GARDEN: 15 WAYS TO KEEP THEM COMING: National Audubon Society

ATTRACTING HUMMINGBIRDS TO YOUR PROPERTY: University of Missouri Extension

HUMMINGBIRD FEEDERS: PennState Extension

S Vradenburg

Supplies and the finished metal and budget hummingbird baths

photos by K Edgington and E Barth-Elias

video by E Barth-Elias

This hummingbird bath uses a Styrofoam ball for a perch. Hummingbirds use their claws to hang on to its surface while they drink. The plastic version of this project is quite inexpensive. A wastebasket from the thrift store ($1) and a clearance plastic charger plate ($1) bring the total cost to around $20. The cost goes down with a plug-in pump, but it is well worth the extra cost to have the portability the solar collector provides. All sorts of metal bowls, buckets, trays, and pots fill thrift shop shelves. An upscale hummingbird bath is a great use for these often-unappreciated beauties! The metal version shown came in at $30. Be aware that the smaller your base container, the more often you will have to fill it (perhaps every day in summer).

SUPPLIES

• 5” Styrofoam ball – size is approximate and should be determined by the size of your base and bowl. These come in white and green. Either is fine, but the green is a bit easier to cover with paint.
• Acrylic paints in natural colors
• Screwdriver
• 5/16" or 3/8” clear vinyl tubing (found at hardware stores, pet shops, or online) This measurement reflects the interior diameter of the tubing.
• Recirculating pump suitable for aquariums or birdbaths, either plug-in or solar. These are easily sourced online.  The solar version runs around $14.

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES FOR PLASTIC VERSION

• Plastic bucket, wastebasket, or similar container
• Plastic plate, tray, or shallow bowl that fits on top and overlaps the above container
• Spray paint suitable for use on plastics (if desired)
• Soldering iron Use in a well ventilated space. Outside is best, but if inside, work with good ventilation, such as under a running range hood.

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES FOR METAL VERSION

• Deep metal pot, ice bucket, or similar container
• Metal tray or shallow bowl that fits on top and overlaps the above container
• Drill
• Hacksaw

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Prepare the Styrofoam ball by slicing a small amount off one side so that the ball will sit flat. Use acrylic paints to paint the ball a natural shade. (Other types of paint will cause the Styrofoam to disintegrate.) A nice combination is a grey background with celery green, a bit of red, and a bit of white sponged on to simulate moss. In a well-ventilated spot (for instance outside or under a running range hood) heat the shaft of the screw driver over a candle, a gas stove flame, or similar heating device and immediately immerse it into the ball from the center of the cut side to the opposite side, creating a 3/4" channel for the tubing. 
2. Spray your plastic bucket, wastebasket or similar container with suitable paint. Cut a notch into the top edge to create a channel for the pump cord to run from inside the container to the outside. For the plastic version use a soldering iron to create this channel. For the metal version use a hacksaw. 
3. Make a 3/4" hole in the center of your plate or shallow bowl, using a soldering iron for plastic or drill for metal. 
4. Make a series of round holes in the plate or bowl, which will allow the water from the top of the bath to return to the container below. Be generous in the number of holes—water needs to drain freely into the base. For plastic, use a soldering iron. (Work from bottom to top for cleaner holes.) For metal, use a drill.
5. Cut a length of vinyl tubing sufficient to run from the bottom of the base container, through the plate or bowl, and through the Styrofoam ball, with several inches to spare. Attach one end of this tubing to the fitting on the submersible pump on the base of your bottom container and thread the rest of the tubing through the plate or bowl and ball. Cut the tubing so it extends approximately 1/2" above the ball.
6. Fill the container with water, and place the hummingbird bath and solar collector in a sunny spot. 
7. Make sure to keep the base container filled with water—the recirculating pump will burn out if the container becomes dry. Turn the solar collector upside down when you want to stop the action of the pump.

What a great winter project! This accessible water source will keep the neighborhood humming.

HERE'S a link to a video that provided inspiration for this project.

K Edgington

Want to chase away the February chill? Click HERE to watch a recording of Master Gardener Jeanne Poremski's program Secrets of Wildflowers. Jeanne will open your eyes to the wonders of spring wildflowers coming soon to a meadow or woodland near you.

February Checklist

• Look out for spotted lanternfly egg masses on trees and other wood and remove them. Here’s how: WHAT SHOULD YOU DO WITH SPOTTED LANTERNFLY EGG MASSES: PennState Extension
• Start an early spring show indoors by forcing dormant branches to bloom. FORCING BRANCHES TO GROW INDOORS: Chicago Botanic Garden
• Begin dormant pruning to shape and control trees and shrubs.
• Order or buy your annual and vegetable seeds now for spring planting.
• Stock up on your equipment for seed starting, such as lights, heat mat and sterile medium.
• Start indoor seeds for cool-season vegetables like broccoli, cabbage, kale and onion.
• Fertilize houseplants, rotate toward the light and keep checking for critters.
• Check for heaving plants that have been pushed out of the ground from temperature changes. Cover with soil, then mulch. FROST HEAVING PERENNIALS: Iowa State University Extension

J Gramlich