In this Issue of "Doug Talks"
Ice Damming and How to Prevent It
What is an Ice Dam?
An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow (water) from draining off the roof. The water that backs up behind the dam can leak into a home and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and other areas.
Why are Ice Dams Bad?
Dams can tear off gutters, loosen shingles, and cause water to back up and pour into your house. When that happens, the results arenât pretty: peeling paint, warped floors, stained and sagging ceilings. Not to mention soggy insulation in the attic, which loses R-value and becomes a magnet for mold and mildew.
How to Prevent Ice Dams
Use Heated Cables
Attached with clips along the roofâs edge in a zigzag pattern, heated cables help prevent ice dams that lift shingles and cause leaks. This solution allows you to equalize your roofâs temperature by heating it from the outside instead of blowing in cold air from the inside. Just be sure to install the cables before bad weather hits.
How to Get Rid of Ice Dams Fast
Blow in Cold Air
Hacking away at ice dams with a hammer, chisel, or shovel is bad for your roof. Throwing salt on them will do more to harm to your plantings than to the ice. Take a box fan into the attic and aim it at the underside of the roof where water is actively leaking in. This targeted dose of cold air will freeze the water in its tracks.
Rake It
Pull off snow with a long-handled aluminum roof rake while you stand safely on the ground. It will instantly change the exterior temperature of your roof without damaging shingles.
Permanent Fixes for Ice Dams
Keep the entire roof the same temperature as the eaves. You can do this by increasing ventilation, adding insulation, and sealing off every possible air leak that might warm the underside of the roof.
By taking care of common trouble spots below, you should enjoy dam-free winters and use less energy:
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Ventilate Eaves and Ridge. A ridge vent paired with continuous soffit vents circulates cold air under the entire roof.
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Cap the Hatch. An unsealed attic hatch or whole-house fan is a massive opening for heat to escape. Install an attic door insulation cover and use foam insulation board to cover the house fan.
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Exhaust to the Outside. Make sure that the ducts connected to the kitchen, bathroom, and dryer vents all lead outdoors through either the roof or walls, but never through the soffit.
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Add Insulation. More insulation on the attic floor keeps the heat where it belongs. To find how much insulation your attic needs, check with your local contractor.
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Install Sealed Can Lights. Old-style recessed lights give off great plumes of heat and canât be insulated without creating a fire hazard. Replace them with sealed âICâ fixtures, which can be covered with insulation.
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Flash Around Chimneys. Bridge the gap between the chimney and house framing with L-shaped steel flashing held in place with unbroken beads of a fire-stop sealant. Using canned spray foam or insulation isnât fire safe.
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Seal and Insulate Ducts. Spread fiber-reinforced mastic on the joints of HVAC ducts and exhaust ducts. Cover them entirely with R-5 or R-6 foil-faced fiberglass.
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Caulk Penetrations. Seal around electrical cables and vent pipes with a fire-stop sealant. Also, look for any spots where the light shines up from below or the insulation is stained black by the dirt from passing air.
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