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Brovia Barolo Normale 2018
Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, Piedmont
Brought to us by: Rosenthal Wine Merchant | Potomac Selections, Inc.
Regular: $74.99 | TWS Sale: $59.99
Nebbiolo is a majestic grape variety - its cradle is Piemonte, whose name (meaning ‘at the foot of the mountain’) is a fitting toponym for a region cradled by the towering Alps, and its name which is derived from nebbia (meaning fog) befits the area’s misty autumns and cold, foggy winters. In the Langhe hills, south of Alba on the right bank of the Tanaro river, are the eleven communes of Barolo. Like a prism of mesoclimates, expressions from vineyards in various communes (and even sites within communes) show impressive distinction from one another. Nothing is flat about vineyards in Barolo – it’s all about aspect and elevation of the slopes (with some of the lower slopes dedicated to hazelnuts).
In the heart of Barolo is the commune of Castiglione Falletto, and its Helvetian soils (predominantly clay/limestone) are home to the fourth generation estate of Brovia (now run by Elena Brovia and her husband Alex Sanchez). The estate encompasses 19.2 hectares, and, though not certified organic, Brovia has long practiced sustainable agriculture with an eye to quality – acquiring land in the best crus, pruning and thinning clusters to limit harvest levels, and harvesting by hand.
Their Normale Barolo is sourced from the younger guyot trained vines within multiple crus. Garblet Sué (mostly limestone soil, 250m, S/SE facing) Rocche di Brovia (sandy soils, 350m, SE facing), Villero (high clay content, 340m, SW facing), and one cru in Serralunga d’Alba: Brea (clay/limestone, 350m, SE facing). Grapes are destemmed and fermented in concrete vats, and the wine is aged for a minimum 24 months in oak botti. This wine is quietly stunning – not over the top or heavy handed, just incredibly balanced Nebbiolo that will blossom with bottle age. With Nebbiolo, patience is truly rewarded.
A perfect pale garnet in the glass, the nose shows dried red and black cherries, crushed lavender and violet, tilled earth, cracked black pepper, ground fennel seed, truffle, some leafy green herbs, and a bit of a sanguine character – think herb encrusted lamb chops right before you sear them. The palate is full bodied – density of flavor meets levitating acidity, and firm tannins provide structure but drift off softly to chalk as the lengthy finish completes with a twang of alpine mint. Perfect for foods cooked slowly – braised brisket, mushroom risotto.
If you’re ready to experience Brovia in all its glory or collect a few other bottles worth cellaring, we also have stock of a few 2018 cru bottlings:
Garblet Sué - TWS Sale $103.99
Rocche di Brovia - TWS Sale $119.99
Villero - TWS Sale $119.99
Brea "Ca Mia" - TWS Sale $119.99
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Giovanni Almondo Arneis 'Sparse' 2021
Roero, Piedmont
Brought to us by: Oasis Wines | Passion Distributing
Regular: $22.99 | TWS Sale: $17.99
Arneis is a fickle grape. It is grown pretty much exclusively in Piedmont, and even then it accounts for a very small percentage of grapes grown. It ripens very suddenly on the vine, which means it needs constant vigilance to make sure the acidity is good for harvest. If one day goes unnoticed, the pH could swing the wrong direction, and you’ll have a whole vintage of plain, flabby white wine. This was such a problem that most farmers didn’t bother growing Arneis, or they would use it exclusively to blend with. Arneis, sadly, wasn’t worth the trouble or attention for most farmers.
Luckily, some producers in the region held strong to the belief Arneis could turn into a delicious stand-alone wine - the most famous being Giovanni Almondo. Located in the Monta region in the most northern part of Roero, Almondo grows Arneis in vineyards that have a distinct sandy soil (almost 80% sand!). The “Vigne Sparse” bottling is Arneis that is aged in stainless steel tanks and kept on the lees as long as possible. The end result is an electric racy white that has notes of peach, pear, oyster shell, and chalk with sweet almonds. Great with an oyster platter, Caprese salad, and for impressing your friends with a wine that they never have heard of.
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Scarpetta Barbera del Monferrato 2021
Monferrato, Piedmont
Brought to us by: Bacchus Importers
Regular: $19.99 | TWS Sale: $15.99
For our Piedmont edition of The Wine Source's "Terroir Series", I have chosen Scarpetta Barbera del Monferrato DOC 2021. The Barbera grape is believed to have originated in the hills of Monferrato in central Piedmont. The landscape of Monferrato is defined by vast, undulating hills with calcareous soils of ancient marine origin consisting of clay, sand and limestone. Barbera thrives in less-fertile calcareous soils and clay loam. The sand is beneficial because it helps to limit vine vigor and yield. ( Lower yields generally produce more concentrated juice.)
The Barbera Del Monferrato DOC was established in 1970. As of 2015 Barbera is the fifth most planted red grape variety in Italy after Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Merlot, and Primitivo. Recent DNA tests suggests that Barbera may be related to the French-Spanish grape Mourvedre. The grapes for this wine were fermented in stainless steel and aged twelve months in neutral oak and cement vats. This results in a wine that shows bright fruit without any wood-influence. This wine has a deep ruby color with a pink rim. It features aromatics of ripe red fruits including cherry, cranberry, red currants and raspberry. Notes of plum, licorice, herbs, mineral and mushrooms are also present. On the palate, the wine is wonderfully balanced with red and blue fruits, a medium-body, pronounced acidity, low velvety tannins and mild spice. The bright acidity and low tannins allow this wine to excel with pastas with red sauce, pizza, poultry, lean cuts of beef and... You guessed it!.........Pork!
Cheers!
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Fratelli Alessandria Verduno Pelaverga 'Speziale' 2020
Verduno, Barolo, Piedmont
Brought to us by: Oasis Wines | Passion Distributing
Regular: $32.99 | TWS Sale: $25.99
At mention of Piedmont, one may gear their focus towards the renowned wines of Barolo and Barbaresco made of the kingly Nebbiolo varietal, but there is another black grape that produces beautiful aromatic red wine: Pelaverga Piccolo.
Verduno Pelaverga DOC intersects through the Northern end of Barolo DOCG encompassing the Verduno commune recognized under the Barolo DOCG. Nebbiolo may be king in these parts, but Pelaverga Piccolo shines in this terroir as well. Verduno is defined by mountain ranges to the North, which protect vineyards from overabundance of rain and harsh winds, as well as rolling hills at elevations around 200-400 meters. The variation of aspects available in this hilled landscape allow winemaker’s access vineyards with a range of sun exposure. Rivers cool the air and reflect the sun’s light onto the vines.
It's hard not to compare a grape to Nebbiolo when talking about Piedmont, so I will do just that. Pelaverga Piccolo’s skins are much thinner than the thick skinned Nebbiolo therefore producing wines with much less structure and tannin (especially if compared to Barolo DOCG). Verduno Pelaverga wines are often produced using a relatively brief fermentation/maceration time as well as no or miniscule amounts of oak which present a bright, soft, yet fragrant wine. Fratelli Alessandria “Speziale” is produced with fruit that is hand harvested from guyot trained vines that reach for the sun on limestone and silt soil in vineyards of varying aspects (East, West, and a touch South) between 250-400 meters of altitude. Fermentation and maceration takes place for 6-8 days at temperatures of 25-26 C (77-79F) in stainless steel. The wine is then aged in stainless and cement for 5 to 6 months then rested in bottle for 1 to 2 months.
“Speziale” is a delicate yet complex wine that offers aromas of strawberry compote with black pepper, oregano, baking spices, and cedar. On the palate negligibly soft tannins and bright acid are accompanied by ripe strawberry, tart cherry, pepper, dried herbs, and something of a reminiscence of Chinese five spice. A fantastic pairing with almost any cheese this Verduno Pelaverga is best paired with hors d’Oeuvres, light fare, or all by itself with a light chill on a random 60 degree day in February. Salute!
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ARPEPE Rosso di Valtellina 2020
Lombardy, Italy
Brought to us by: Arpepe USA | Free Run Wine Merchants
Regular: $44.99 | TWS Sale: $35.99
Valtellina is within Lombardy, tucked away in the northern-most reaches of Italy. Indeed, it is so far north that you’re practically in Switzerland! Lombardy is one of the few areas within Italy where wine isn’t central to the culture. Instead, with Milan as its capital, Lombardy is more known for its industry, fashion, finance, and excellent ski resorts. Yet, this cool Alpine region is one of the few places where Nebbiolo (known locally as ‘Chiavennasca’) is grown extensively beyond the borders of Piedmont. (It is also home to one of Italian winemaking’s hidden gems: the fantastic sparkling wines of Franciacorta.) Luminary producer ARPEPE is widely considered the preeminent winery in the region, and one of the most compelling Nebbiolo producers, regardless of origin.
ARPEPE’s vineyards are dramatic to say the least. Nebbiolo seems to prefer higher altitude, but these aren’t the gently rolling hills of Piedmont in Valtellina - instead, the terrain is rocky and mountainous, which in turn leads you to the surreal landscape of Valtellina’s steeply stacked terraces. (There are so many stone walls making up the terraces that, if you lined them all up, the walls would be longer than the entirety of Italy two times over!) Yet, ARPEPE is worked entirely by hand in some of the most unforgiving vineyard sites outside of Germany’s Mosel. It is not unheard of to spend 1,500 hours tending just a single hectare of their 13 hectares overall in one growing season (for comparison, most vineyards in easier terrain take 200-300 hours per hectare). The composition of these soils can vary surprisingly between sites, but overall there is generally a relatively thin topsoil covering mainly schist with some silt deposits. The cool Alpine air is tempered somewhat by the breva, the warming winds that collect over Lake Como. The winds generated by this warming airflow also help to reduce rot and mildew pressure.
Due to its early bud break and late ripening, Nebbiolo has a reputation for being fussy and difficult in the vineyard. With Valtellina’s elevation and climate, Nebbiolo barely ripens in time for harvest. All vineyards face south to maximize sunlight, but Nebbiolo still doesn’t develop quite the same structure here as in Piedmont. The resulting wines are light, floral, and delicate by comparison. With their hands-on and traditionalist approach, ARPEPE's wines are the best place to start for a classical impression of Valtellina wines as a whole.
ARPEPE’s Rosso di Valtellina has an average vine age of more than 50 years, with the grapes coming from their lower vineyards all at an altitude of 350-400m. Harvest happened
on October 10th, 2020, where the bunches are picked by hand and carried in baskets to be pressed in the cellar that is carved into the mountainside. There, they are left to macerate in cement vats for 110 days until being transferred to large, untoasted chestnut casks. The wine is left in cask for at least 6 months before finishing maturation in the bottle. The resulting wine incredibly aromatic and expressive, but with a very delicate presence in the glass. A pale, ethereal garnet hue that belies the robust wine within. Aromas of fresh rose petals, lavender, petrichor, and forest floor pour forth from the glass. The palate is surprisingly bright and fruity by comparison, with macerated strawberry, raspberry, maraschino, and Luden’s cherry coughdrop mingling together on the palate. The finish has enough structure and acidity that this wine is best enjoyed with food, yet still downright light and playful in its youth by comparison to its Piedmont cousins. Enjoy this wine with some aged gouda, Soppressata, or mushroom carbonara for best results.
P.S. - Photo credit to Kasimir Bujak, who has visited the winery!
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Botani Sparkling Muscat 2021
Malaga, Spain
Brought to us by: Jorge Ordóñez | Prestige-Ledroit Distributing Co.
Regular: $24.99 | TWS Sale: $19.99
I have to admit- when the prompt to write about Piedmont varieties was proposed, I had completely forgotten the white grapes of the region. The famous red grapes Nebbiolo (particularly from Barolo and Barbaresco), Barbera, and Dolcetto completely dominated my impression of this prominent region. Then I was reminded of Moscato d’Asti, the delightfully sweet and effervescent wine that conjures visions of Jennifer Coolidge vacationing in Sicily. Moscato, also known as Moscato Bianco or Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, is an ancient grape that is originally from Greece and very closely related to Muscat of Alexandria (the oldest variety in the muscat family). It is grown in many regions and can be vinified dry, sweet, still, sparkling or even fortified. Botani’s sparkling Muscat is essentially a Spanish version of the popular Italian interpretation.
Botani’s Sparkling Muscat is made from 100% Muscat of Alexandria and grown in Malaga, Spain which is much further south than Piedmont. While Piedmont has more of a continental climate and Malaga is along the Mediterranean Sea, both areas are mountainous. The similarities of the regions end there with Malaga being a dry climate with extreme inclinations and more mild summers and winters. Botani uses old mountainside vineyards that need to be worked completely by hand due to the difficult terrain. The vines are planted among solid and decomposed slate without any treatments to the vines and using dry farming practices. The fermentation of this wine takes place with wild yeasts in stainless steel, using the Charmat method. The aromatic nose features white blossoms, white peach, orange zest and the full palate tastes of candied citrus with a refreshing acidity. The ABV is nearly twice that of Moscato d’Asti at 10.5%. The well known characteristics of the Muscat grape family still shine despite the differences in growing region. If you need a treat, the should surely lift your spirits.
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Heitz Cellar Grignolino 2017
Napa Valley, California
Brought to us by: Republic National Distributing Co.
Regular: $32.99 | TWS Sale: $25.99
A native grape to the Monferrato Hills between Asti and Casale, Grignolino today covers about just 1% of total vineyard surface in Piedmont. Delicate in nature, Grignolino was popular in the sixteenth century for its use in making “chiaretti”: a style of rosé wine. However, this delicacy also led to being displaced over time by grapes with higher durability and better financial returns. The name Grignolino stems from Piedmontese word “grignolè” meaning "seeds" (because these grapes have more pips in each small berry compared to other varieties) and also the word grimace- a reference to the physical response we experience when drinking wines with high tannin.
The family-run Heitz Cellar helped shape the world of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon with single vineyard bottlings- but what I find intriguing is that they planted Grignolino back in the 1940’s. In fact, it was the only grape on the original parcel that Joe Heitz purchased in founding the winery. In 1966, Grignolino vine cuttings were planted on 5 acres of St. Helena where they remain and flourish to this day. Heitz Cellar continues to make a Grignolino bottling every year; a unique feat considering this grape is particular and rebellious! Grignolino requires attentive care in its growing, prefers light soils with sunny exposures, and with its many seeds will only flourish in the hands of excellent winemakers.
Grignolino often resembles a big rosato more than a vino rosso because of its light frame and high acidity - thus it having been dubbed "baby Nebbiolo" by internet oenophiles. Due to the naturally high tannin in the grape itself, oak aging is often avoided to promote freshness of fruit and balance structure. This Heitz Grignolino redolent of fresh hibiscus, ripe strawberries and white pepper. On the palate, it is soft in texture, light bodied with flavor of pomegranate, peony & cherry. This wine is wonderfully friendly by itself as a red wine for those who prefer whites, but would pair well with herbaceous, mushroom-y, cheesy pasta.
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Cieck Erbaluce di Caluso 2021
San Giorgio Canavese, Piedmont
Brought to us by: Free Run Wine Merchants
Regular: $19.99 | TWS Sale: $15.99
For fans of Roero Arneis and Gavi di Gavi, Erbaluce is a hidden but friendly and welcoming gem among the white grapes of Piedmont. It often contains a strong backbone of orchard fruit, lemon, and wet river stones—-a palate indicative of the NW corner of Piedmont the grape hails from.
Cieck may be the most trusted and well-known cultivator of Erbaluce, with 13 hectares at their command from which they vinify into a range of still, sparkling, and passito styles. (It is a true Erbaluce passion project). Erbaluce is historically pergola trained, with the added shade allowing for grapes to hold onto acidity as well as ripe flavor. The soils of the region are majority stone and pebble left behind from glaciers that moved through the area over 20,000 years ago, leaving the land rich in silicate and carbonate rocks that lend a savory richness to the structure of the wine.
This specific bottling of Erbaluce di Caluso is a benchmark introduction to the style with crisp acidity, peach and starfruit flavor and a flinty backbone that reminds me of frolicking through meadows in fall. The essence of this wine pairs with any fish or seafood, finger food, light laughter, and potential swing dancing in your kitchen. In short, it’s friendly, unique and delightful.
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Le Piane Boca 2016
Boca, Piedmont
Brought to us by: Free Run Wine Merchants
Regular: $79.99 | TWS Sale: $63.99
By many standards, Nebbiolo is one of the most exciting grapes in the world. It remains my personal all-time favorite. Sadly, the wines are often expensive, and none more so than those of the famous villages of Barolo and Barbaresco. However, climate change and evolving consumer tastes have conspired to make excellent Nebbiolo more affordable and increasingly easier to find. Areas that were considered, until recently, both too cold to consistently produce great Nebbiolo and too obscure for American wine buyers are now garnering increasing fame, allowing access to a more delicate, racy, high-altitude interpretation of the grape.
An iconic example of this is the wines of Le Piane in Boca. Long before the world knew Barolo, Boca was the premier center of Nebbiolo production, shipping barrels over the Alps deep into wealthy cantons of Switzerland. This area, far northeast of Barolo at the edge of Lombardy, possesses a unique volcanic soil on its south-facing, sub-Alpine hills. Though a shadow of its former self in terms of production, the quality achieved by the few producers of Boca is increasingly outstanding. Once on the periphery of where grapes could grow, warmer and warmer vintages continue to showcase Boca’s quality and potential.
Winemaker Christoph Kunzli recognized this potential when he moved here from Switzerland back in the nineties to rescue abandoned vineyards, and eventually founded Le Piane - now Boca’s flagship winery. We currently carry two of his wines: A fresh, well-priced introduction to Nebbiolo, as well as his premier bottling.
The Le Piane 2021 Nebbiolo comes from the Novara hills around Boca and sees no oak. It is very light, fine, long and racy, not very tannic at all - possessing a wonderful texture with a faint prickle hinting at effervescence. This wine feels very much alive yet clean. Notes include: cedar spice, dusty red licorice, crushed up red and black cherries, pomegranate, tar, and rhubarb.
The 2016 Boca comes from ancient vines trellised by hand and tied with vine cuttings. It sees native yeast fermentation, punch-downs by hand, and no fining or filtering. Four years of oak are followed by six months in bottle before release. Intensely savory yet soft, light, and fresh, with an almost airy texture, this is a delicious and finessed Nebbiolo that will improve for decades. Smoked meat and candied cherries mingle, followed by clove, anise, orange peel, fennel, leather, beef jerky, dried cranberries, smoke, dried orange, and chicory root. YUM.
Best.
Grape.
Ever.
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