Noonsite December Sailing News and Updates |
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GRATEFUL FOR THE NOONSITE COMMUNITY |
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2022 has been quite a year for cruisers worldwide. After the emergence of Omicron twelve months ago, we now find ourselves in a world with open borders (bar a handful of countries) and relatively hassle-free cruising once more.
So many of our Noonsite Ambassadors have returned to their boats and resumed sending us wonderful reports and updates. Those that never left their boats during the Pandemic continue to contribute to the site and all are what make Noonsite such a rich and diverse cruising resource. Thank you to all of you, and to our readers, advertisers and multitude of cruising contacts worldwide who continue to support Noonsite with important information.
We finish 2022 with a heady mix of cruising news, voyage and destination reports, inspiring web links and our ocean round-up to keep you up to date with what’s going on around the world for cruisers.
We thank you for your on-going support and wish you and your crew a very Merry Christmas and exciting cruising for 2023!
Sue and the Noonsite Team.
Previous newsletters can be viewed here.
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French Polynesia is celebrating 20 years of wildlife protection and industrial fishing bans by expanding its marine sanctuary (the world’s largest) by 2030. The marine sanctuary will cover half a million square kilometres in the south-east of the territory and is to be known as Rahui Nui. Home to 21 species of sharks, 176 corals and 1,024 species of fish, Edouard Fritsch, President of French Polynesia, says “The sea is the Marae, the ultimate sanctuary and splendour of the world. It is a symbol of mystery – a symbol of respect – because it awakens the consciousness of space. The protection and sustainable management of our Ocean are rooted in our traditions and values. This is our contribution to the transmission of this whole heritage to our children.”
All life on earth depends on healthy oceans. Be part of an innovative and unique collaborative and global data collection project run by GOES (Global Oceanic Environmental Survey), that could help us throw the ocean a lifeline and transform how we approach climate mitigation.
Straight from the ocean, seaweed is a nutritional powerhouse and readily available to all sailors. Ocean Nomad Suzanne is excited about seaweed as a source of food.
Dutch circumnavigators Ivar Smits and Floris van Hees seek out sustainable solutions in every port of call they visit. Read their top 10 tips on how to sail more sustainably. Having left their boat in South Africa they are now in Amsterdam giving presentations about their mission and journey. Reflection, personal transformation, surprising discoveries, sailing adventures, sustainability, and hope will feature as key elements. Above all, they aim for the presentations to be a source of inspiration for the course of humanity as a whole, with tips for anyone who wants to contribute to a more sustainable future. Find out more at https://www.facebook.com/sailorsforsustainability.
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Jenny Crickmore-Thompson, John Franklin and Peter Sherlock
In 2020, a great many boats were “stuck” in the Indian Ocean because of the pandemic and many border closures. The two gateways to the Atlantic, the Red Sea and South Africa, were both closed. Three South African cruisers saw the plight of many yachtsmen who were just trying to get home, and all have been nominated for Noonsite’s Cruising Legends.
Jenny Crickmore-Thompson, John Franklin (both based near Johannesburg and pictured top) and Peter Sherlock (based in Cape Town, pictured bottom) combined their efforts and managed to persuade the government in Pretoria to conditionally open the borders for yachts. Yachts were then able to sail from La Réunion, Seychelles and Tanzania to South Africa and make their way into the Atlantic.
These actions were pivotal in helping move boats out of the cyclone belt in time and well over 70 boats that arrived in South Africa during this time are grateful for the incredible effort of these three cruisers.
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Dutch circumnavigators (via the three great capes) Wietze van der Laan and Janneke of SY Anna Caroline were one of the boats that nominated Jenny, John and Peter. They became stuck in the Indian Ocean because of the pandemic and knowing about the efforts of John, Jenny and Peter, they assisted them as much as possible by gathering information about the yachts wanting to sail around South Africa. “They have been (and are) instrumental in getting people to South Africa. Not only did they manage to persuade the South African government to open their borders to cruisers in 2020, but they have also moved forward and developed a system for yachts to register and make entry much easier. All this and the foundation of OSASA too!”
The Ocean Sailing Association of Southern Africa (OSASA), the brainchild of Jenny, John and Peter, specifically represent the interests of recreational cruisers sailing around the oceans of Southern Africa and in its coastal waters. OSASA has developed a strong relationship with the SA Government and implemented a new protocol to ease the entrance of yachts for the years to come, as well as continuing to work closely with the government to streamline departure clearance.
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This is where we bring you stories from cruisers around the world who are taking part in local community projects and giving just a little bit back.
Birgit and Christian oF SY Pitufa are "green cruisers". They have been liveaboards for 11 years and have spent 9 of those years in the South Pacific. They rely only on alternative energy sources and try to minimize the impact they have on the environment. Living close to nature and the elements they witness the changes and the negative impact of cruisers as well as local populations on fragile eco-systems. Whenever they feel that something's gone awry in a place that they are visiting they try to take action. Whenever they stay longer on an island they visit the local schools and give presentations on whatever issue seems most pressing.
“Quite often”, they say, “we have the impression that we tackle issues the locals are already worried about and instead of being offended that we foreigners meddle with their affairs, many seem grateful for our input and appreciate the fact that we care. We do feel like we are fighting windmills, but we still think that trying is better than just giving up and leaning back.” SY Pitufa’s blog [https://www.pitufa.at] has not only a great deal of interesting articles, but also a huge cruising library of tips, advice, weather info., cruising guides and much more. Find out more about the Pitufa crew in their Portrait of a Cruiser.
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A cruiser’s dinghy and outboard are like their family car. It has to be reliable, big enough for all the crew, robust and get them to shore whatever the weather. With a good dinghy and outboard coming in at considerable cost, it’s not a surprise that both are prime targets for thieves and many are lost to thieves on a regular basis (as our security reports demonstrate).
If you have anything to share with those new to the cruising life, send us an e-mail, we’d love to hear your stories.
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The Cost of Cruising: Our collection of blogs, articles, podcasts and videos by liveaboards cruising in different parts of the world (and some circumnavigating) who have addressed this subject, recorded their expenditure in detail and given advice on hidden costs etc.
Securing your boat from intruders: Ideas for how best to keep potential thieves and attackers from getting into your boat, deter them and prevent your valuables being stolen. More ideas welcome, just post a comment at the bottom of the report!
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Baltic Sea, Northern Europe and now the Mediterranean . . .
This month’s featured cruisers are Eve and Andrus from Finland who have sailed extensively in the Baltic Sea and recorded lots of great local knowledge on their blog suwena.net.
After leaving the Baltic their voyage took them down the North Sea to the English Channel. It took them two summers to circumnavigate the British Isles during which time they sailed up north as far as the Shetlands. They based the boat in Brittany, France for a while and then continued sailing south down Europe's Atlantic Coast. After stopping in Lisbon for a haulout in February 2020, their flights tickets to return in April were left un-used as the Pandemic struck and borders closed.
It was two years before Eve and Andrus saw their boat Suwena again. After a wonderful return in 2022 and summer in the Algarve and Morocco, they left the boat in La Linea (next to Gibraltar) for the winter, planning to resume cruising the Mediterranean in Spring 2023.Great blog posts at https://www.suwena.net/ and don't miss their YouTube channel for videos about their sailing voyages.
If you think you have a blog/vlog that Noonsite users will find interesting and useful, let us know.
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Pacific:
For those of you planning to head to the South Pacific this coming season, don't forget to download satellite charts for the areas you're going to visit before you leave North America. Bruce and Alene of SV Migration have free charts available on their Chart Locker, but bear in mind a complete set of charts for only French Polynesia (ArcGIS, BingSat, GoogleSat and Navionics) is over 10GB, so you'll want to have a fast and cheap connection for download. If you are in Mexico, to avoid having to download, Mike and Kat in Banderas Bay have a copy of the FP charts at Cruiser Comfort, and Andy Barrow kindly donated a portable drive with the charts that can be borrowed from the Vallarta Yacht Club. There's probably a copy or two floating around La Paz as well.
The first boat has arrived in Niue since borders opened last month. SV Independence told Noonsite: “We are in Nuie right now, as the first boat to visit in 3 years. We picked up one of two Moorings and were greeted by Keith who has been incredibly helpful in showing us around. A wonderful guy who really cares about the island!”. Since we reported on the possible closure of the NYC last month, Keith has been inundated with support from cruisers that have visited Niue in the past and enjoyed the hospitality of the Niue Yacht Club. He told us; “In our darkest hours we are receiving so many emails from cruisers that provide the motivation to look for solutions to carry on. The Niue Yacht Club was established in the 1970s and over the last 14 years, 6600 yacht crew have visited Niue BC (Before Covid). Cruisers are the "cleanest and greenest" visitors and it is ironic that NYC had such an ethos way before it has become fashionable with global warming and fossil fuel emissions. The fact that so many cruisers have taken the time to contact us and express their appreciation of the Club is immensely helpful. Phoenix-like, NYC will "rise again"!
Keith reports that currently a survey is being carried out of the current 20-mooring block system on the seabed in Alofi Bay, as they haven't been checked for three years. With the number of yachts planning to visit Niue next year, including two World ARC fleets, there is hope that the mooring field may be expanded if there is space on the sea bed. If you have crossed the Pacific or are planning to, please contact Keith at the NYC and show your support for the Club - keithvial@gmail.com.
Many yachts have been arriving in New Zealand this month having completed their South Pacific journey. Circumnavigators Kerstin and Martin Giretzlehner report on their “roller coaster” passage from Fiji to Opua aboard their Fountaine Pajot Lucia 40 catamaran, Infinity, which involved wind, waves and several pairs of woollen socks!
Kirk Patterson of Konpira Consulting, long-time helper of foreign cruising boats in Japan, has decided to organize an annual Japan Rally, starting with a “test drive” in 2024. The general plan is to help cruisers go from southern Japan to northern Japan from late March to early June, positioning them to then head to Alaska/Canada. There will likely be five stops in the Rally, with participants free to determine where to go between each stop (a list of recommended moorage options and local highlights will be provided to help with passage planning). Clear-in and clear-out support will be part of the Rally service/fee. The OCC will be holding a 70th Anniversary Event at the third stop in the Japan Rally at Iki Island (off the northwest end of Kyushu) on May 10-12, 2024. There will be an option to split off and join the Setouchi International Yacht Rally which starts at Iki, and then re-join the Japan Rally the following year. Specific details have yet to be finalised, however cruisers interested in being kept up to date with the Rally development should email kirk@konpira-consulting.com.
Also don’t miss Island Cruising’s NZ to Japan Rally, running April to June next year via Fiji and Guam, with only 2 spots remaining.
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South China Sea:
After three years of limited or zero travel, we are all a bit rusty with traveling pitfalls. A timely warning from sailor Bob Mott from Thailand to be observant and beware of money changer booths in Phuket. Bob was there at the start of December to exchange US and Singapore currency and the staff miscounted in their favour.
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Indian:
Seychelles lifted all Covid-related travel restrictions at the start of the month, however Madagascar still remains closed, with the Nosy Be loophole still the only option for entry.
Andaman Holidays are back to organising yachting rallies in the beautiful Andaman Islands, India and have announced the Andaman Yacht Carnival from mid-February to mid-March next year. Find out more by contacting yachtagency@andamanholidays.com
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Caribbean Sea:
Caribbean Compass, the free monthly online boating publication for everything Caribbean, came under new ownership this month. Sally Erdle and Tom Hopman launched the magazine in 1995 after a five-and-a-half-year circumnavigation and have passed the helm to fellow sailors and media professionals Dan and Kelly Merton. The magazine now has a Facebook page and is on Instagram. Their December issue has many good articles including a useful report on Sailing to the Caribbean in the Fall.
In Bonaire fees are increasing as of January 1st, 2023. The daily mooring buoy fee of US$10 will be increased to $35 (with no services included). Add to this the $75 entry fee per person, plus the $40 nature fee per person, and Bonaire just got way more expensive.
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Atlantic:
A useful reminder for any non-US boats planning on cruising the coast of the USA, as reported by UK yacht SY Shimshal. Domestic reporting to CBP is still required, even after clearing-in and obtaining a Cruising License/permit.
On the other side of the Atlantic, GTOA will shortly launch an App for the transfer of cetacean sighting data, making reporting easier as public participation in the orca citizen science program increases. The work of GTOA and their involvement with the Atlantic Orca is well explained by John Burbeck of the CA Orca Project Group at the bottom of this report.
Brazilian circumnavigator Silvio Ramos, who organises the BRally Amazon, is also planning a northbound “sail together” for foreign yachts wishing to visit Brazil in 2023. Commencing in Ubatuba, the fleet will stop at São Paulo on their way to the Amazon Region, stopping and participating in sailing events along the way.
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Mediterranean:
Marmaris Bay Cruisers website, run by the vibrant and friendly cruiser Gwen Bylund, has served the Marmaris and Turkish cruising communities for nine years. However, times have changed and readers have moved on to other methods of communication, so this month the site is being retired. Thank you Gwen, for your years of great service to the cruising community.
Winter Cruising in the Med just got easier as Tunisia health authorities have finally lifted all Covid-related entry restrictions this month.
If cruising to the Mediterranean through the European Canal network appeals, winter time is when to do your research. See Noonsite’s Guide to the inland waterways of Europe and Yachting Monthly’s useful article on how to prepare you boat and crew.
Do you want to see more updates from your part of the world? Send us news and new information that’s of interest to visiting yachts and we’ll include it in our newsletters – e-mail editor@noonsite.com
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Misery is Optional
Sailing south for the winter is all about finding the right weather window and deciding when to go, but as US sailor Nica Waters reports, that's not all it's about. Choosing not to be miserable is probably the most important goal and in this report for INSIGHTS she reflects on watching and waiting for the right conditions to sail from the US east coast to the Caribbean, via Bermuda, this year.
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The Togean Islands in Indonesia are rarely visited by any tourists, even less by sailboats. To get there, the Gulf of Tomini has to be tackled, which is crowded with fish aggregating devices (FAD) just waiting to snare a yacht, even worse, put a hole in it. Well known cruisers, Liz and Jamie of Follow the Boat, report on their night crossing of the Gulf of Tomini to get to “Nirvana”.
When cruising – not just in remote regions of the world – one of the major concerns for yacht crew (apart from the condition of their boat), is staying connected. Connection is vital for weather information, safety, managing affairs and of course staying in touch with family and friends. Three useful articles this month on the various satellite options available right now come from Blue Water Cruising, SV Totem and Cruising Compass.
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Construction
With a hull and deck built to Lloyd's Certification and a versatile Solent/Cutter rig, the rugged construction and multiple sail plan options combine to deliver safe, effective passage-making abilities in all kinds of weather. Want to make 200-mile days under sail? This is your boat!
Interior
Below decks, smart use of space, warm, rich cabinetry and luxurious fabrics unite for elegant social areas, generous storage and secure accommodations.
Ownership History
ENCORE II has been in the hands of the current owners for more than 20 years who have enjoyed her in the Great Lakes, South Pacific and the Caribbean. Having gone through two refits during their ownership, you will find ENCORE II ready to go and nicely equipped for your next adventure.
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LINKS WE LIKE FROM AROUND THE WEB |
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Heikki Riikonen vlogs about sailing the Caribbean on his YouTube channel Artemis Seilaa. So far, he has covered from Martinique to Grenada and his journey continues. Targeted to Finnish speakers and mostly in Finnish, English speakers will still enjoy the content.
Practical Boat Owner laments that the chance of a boat owner finding an affordable do-it-yourself boatyard is becoming less likely with each passing year.
Keeping up to date with the latest navigation technology can be prohibitive. Mike Reynolds shares with Yachting Monthly how to get the latest electronics for your boat for a fraction of the cost.
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By Judy Lomax
This must-have cruising guide by Judy Lomax produced by the Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation (RCCPF) and published by Imray, provides yet more inspiration for cruising in the northern latitudes. This new edition covers the entire coast of Norway from the Swedish border in the Skagerrak around the North Cape to the Russian border, including the Lofoten and Vesterålen islands, the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard and the remote volcanic island of Jan Mayen.
Author Judy Lomax continues to sail this beguiling coastline of majestic fjords and multiple islands and uses her extensive network of contacts, built up over more than 30 years, to help monitor changes in the region.
This fourth edition incorporates numerous updates to her previous work and expands on the detail for some areas such as the Oslo Fjord and the Telemark Canal. There is a wealth of new photographs and revised Imray plans throughout.
The RCCPF has some absolute gems in its ever-expanding collection of cruising guides, many for more remote regions of the world that are published online. Find out more at https://rccpf.org.uk/
Footnote:
The Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation is searching for a new editor-in-chief. The foundation works with publishers Imray and Adlard Coles as well as self-publishing a range of digital and printed cruising information. The role is remote, part-time working and requires a close working relationship with authors, publishers and other members of the Foundation’s management team. The role is well-suited to someone with an enthusiasm for navigational and technical detail. Anyone interested should contact the director of the foundation, Anthony Wells at director@rccpf.org.uk
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Spuma Maris - an innovative biodegradable boat cleaning product.
It is solvent free and dissolves in nature in only 10 days. New bag on valve technology allows to spray even with bottle upside down and it is CO2 free - ozone friendly, as it works with pressurised air. It does not foam or smell and gives excellent cleaning results. It is mainly intended for boats, but is applicable for any use and material.
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How to get more out of Noonsite
While the majority of Noonsite continues to be a free resource, there are some ways you can get more enhanced viewing and more involved with the site:
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Become a Member:
Starting from just $2.99/month you can benefit from enhanced access to key areas of Noonsite via our membership program. Your subscription will help keep the site on the web as part of a growing community of supporters. Our free membership is available to all but does come with a ‘fair use’ policy limiting access to country formalities each month. Enjoy unlimited access via our Basic Membership for just $2.99 a month, which also gives you the Noonsite community map, where you can view at a glance marine services worldwide, ports of entry and post your favorite anchorages. Noonsite Premium Membership add offline access to port and country formalities information to use when on passage.
E-mail us with updates and reports:
For more than just a comment, send us your detailed cruising reports and experiences around the world to publish on Noonsite and share with the community. Help us keep Noonsite accurate by feeding back any port updates or experiences of first-arrival in a new country. Any cruising-related questions are welcome, contact the noonsite team directly at noonsite@noonsite.com.
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Find Crew with Ocean Crew Link |
Need crew? Want to find new sailing buddies? Then visit Ocean Crew Link, the only crew connect website specifically for ocean voyaging.
Add your boat and opportunity and it will be emailed to over 11,000 sailors worldwide. If you want to find a boat, then hop aboard as we have over 150 active sailing opportunities open all the time.
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