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MAY 2020
Theme: "Herbs, Teas and Pollinators"
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Feature Article:
Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme
More Than Culinary Herbs!
by: Dianne Willett, Johnston County EMGV
As a teenager listening to the Simon & Garfunkel song of the same name, I had no idea that Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme were herbs used in cooking, much less that they have medicinal value.
Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme are common garden herbs most people recognize as having culinary uses in the kitchen. But these beautiful gems also have many medicinal qualities including strengthening digestion, supporting the nervous and immune systems, acting as antioxidants
(substances that may protect your cells against free radicals, which may play a role in heart disease, cancer and other diseases),
and antimicrobials which fight against
bacterial infections.
Parsley,
Petrsoselinum crispum
- Often overlooked as being nothing more than garnish for a dinner plate, few realize that parsley is very high in nutrients such as Vitamin C, Vitamin A and most notably Vitamin K, which is strongly linked to heart health and healthy bones. As a medicine, parsley is best known for its diuretic effects on the urinary system, making it particularly valuable for urinary infections, kidney stones and cystitis (bladder inflammation).
Parsley is best used fresh and when eaten frequently can freshen your breath, improve digestion and decrease oxidative issues. Add equal amounts of parsley and lettuce to a salad or make a delicious pesto combining it with cilantro. parsley has blood-thinning capabilities so refrain from using large amounts if you are taking blood-thinning medications.
Sage, Salvia officinalis - At the thought of sage, most people think of the poultry seasoning mix used for turkey stuffing. Historically, sage was used as a digestive aid and therefore, it is understandable why it is added to heavy foods like turkey stuffing and sausage. However, sage has many other medicinal benefits such as: soothing sore throats caused by the common cold or flu, relieves night sweats and hot flashes, strengthens cognition and improves memory, and can lower cholesterol and blood sugar levels in Type 2 Diabetes.
Sage can be used fresh or dried in tea. A strong tea infusion (2 tablespoons dried sage leaves to 8 ounces boiling water) can also be used as a hair rinse for dandruff. Sage is rich in anti-inflammatory compounds and research has shown that sage extract applied topically has similar effects to that of hydrocortisone for inflammatory skin conditions.
Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis - If you have ever brushed up against rosemary either by accident or intentionally, its strong, aromatic scent gives its identity away immediately! Besides being a common culinary ingredient, rosemary has been used as perfume and to assist in memorization.
The history of using rosemary as a memory enhancer goes back to ancient Greece. As a teacher, I would recommend students smell the essential oil while studying and then again while taking a test. Science has validated that smelling rosemary essential oil reduces test anxiety and can significantly enhance memory. New research has shown Alzheimer patients experienced cognitive benefits by simply smelling the essential oil.
Thyme,
Thymus vulgaris - Thyme is a strong antimicrobial and traditionally has been used for many types of bacterial infections. It can be used as a mouth wash for sore and inflamed gums, and as a gargle to soothe a sore throat.
Thyme is an important herb for the upper respiratory system. As a strong tea infusion (steep 1 tablespoon dried herb to eight ounces boiling water 5-8 minutes), it is well known for stopping coughing spasms and is an effective expectorant. Researchers have concluded that using thyme in the treatment of bronchitis showed significantly better healing times.
Hippocrates said, "Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food." Adding parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme to your regular diet may go a long way to adding beneficial medicine in the form of food.
Dianne Willett is the owner of Momma D Remedies (www.mommadremedies.com), a Clinical Herbalist, Aromatherapist and licensed Massage Therapist#7508. She offers private consultations on holistic health approaches to help the body find its way to wellness.
The contents of this article are for informational purposes only and are not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health providers with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.
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Attracting Pollinators:
Purposeful Pollinators
by Joann King, Johnston County EMGV
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Picture from Joanne's Garden
People are becoming more informed on the importance of "pollinator plants" in the garden. Pollinator plants are nectar and pollen rich plants that attract insects, birds or animals that serve as pollinators. For example, the bee eats the nectar for food; pollen is transferred to the plants stigma; the plant is fertilized, producing flowers and seed; and a bird carries the seed. It is the reproduction function of plant life and it is essential to the creation of our food, and the food for wildlife.
The most important pollinator in our food chain is the bee, all kinds of bees. Bees work very hard all year long to keep us fed. Earlier this year, I saw an article that suggested that you not eliminate dandelions in your lawn in the late winter months. The dandelion flower, as one of our first flowers of the year, is likely to be the only plant blooming at that time and a source of nectar for bees and other insects. Who would have thought a "weed" would serve such a noble purpose!
Did you know that bananas and agave are pollinated by bats? That would mean no tequila without bats. Although not common in North America, bats keep plants thriving - they are essential to food production, rain forests, and materials, like fibers and timber.
The most well-known pollinator bird in our area is the hummingbird. It is fascinating to watch them at work drawing nectar from long-tubed flowers, such as bee balm, columbine and daylilies. Other birds cannot easily draw the nectar from this type of plant, so without hummingbirds we would not have them. While they eat the nectar, pollen sticks to their body and is transferred.
Lastly, everyone's favorite, butterflies! Although a popular element in the pollinator garden, most butterflies are relatively poor pollinators. Butterflies consume nectar for their food, but transferring pollen is accidental. Butterflies do serve as pollinators, but not as effectively as bees and other insects. Lucky for us, a garden that attracts butterflies also attracts bees and birds. Unfortunately for the butterfly (but good for us), their larvae provides a food source for birds, spiders, lizards and other critters critical to pollinating our ecosystem.
However, one butterfly that stands out as a star pollinator is the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail. It keeps the Flaming Azalea thriving in western North Carolina. The anther (where pollen is produced) sticks out from the flower, and stigma (flower part where pollen germinates) on the flaming azalea are relatively far apart, making contact on both difficult for most insects and smaller butterflies. The constant fanning motion of the swallowtail gives the wings contact with both anther and stigma, making the swallowtails an efficient pollinator.
There is a purpose for all of these elements, and they all need to co-exist and thrive in our environment to create the balance of our ecosystem. So, a pollinator garden is a happy place for all of them, including the gardener!
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Quick Tip:
Drying Herbs
By Chris Alberti, Johnston County EMGV
Herbs can be dried over several days in a cool room, and more quickly in warm air. Keep leaves on the stem, though large ones, such as borage, may be separated and dried on a rack. Hang seed heads to dry inside a paper bag to collect the seeds as they fall. Cut flowers from their stems for drying. Roots must be brushed clean and then cut into 1-inch slices.
Separate stems into small bunches to allow the warm air to circulate freely, tie together and hang to dry. Spread loose herbs in a single layer on a drying rack. Flowers and leaves are dry when they are crisp and rattily; roots when they are hard and woody. A dehydrator may also be used. Herbs should be dried at about 100 degrees F.
Reference:
The Herb Bible
, Peter McHoy and Pamela Westland, 1994 Barnes & Noble Books
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Landscaping Ideas:
Planting Herbs & Pollinators
Along the Garden Edge
A logic-based strategy toward self-sustaining & eco-healthy practice
by Barb Barakat, Johnston County EMGV
Herbs and other pollinator plants can help you move your garden from a bug-eats-plant environment to a bug-eats-bug environment. In a simplified way, the whole interaction system in your garden is smell based - pheromones. Plants give off an identifiable smell which brings on the pests (this is why the squash bug is always on the squash plant and the azalea caterpillar on the azalea). If you follow that theory to the next level, pests also give off a scent - that alerts their predators (these predators are the 'good guy' insects we want in our gardens as they eat the pests). We can encourage these beneficial insects into our gardens by providing for their habitat needs - space, shelter, water, food. How? - by following nature - by planting diversely - crop plants inter-planted with loads of other plants. Herbs are a great choice as they are naturally aromatic. Is all of this research-based? - not yet - but it is logic-based and 'leading edge' gardening is experimental. Some links that list "good plants":
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Know the Good Guys
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Beneficial insects eat bugs -they eat the pests that eat the plants
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Hornworm being eaten by para
sitic wasp nymphs
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All Garden Spiders
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Praying Mantis & egg casing
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Lady Bug
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Pupal Case
Larva
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I
mages from Missouri Botanical: Beneficial Insects
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Companion planting doesn't yet have the research-based status. Just a quick FYI on what that means. Researched-based gardening follows the scientific method: develop a theory, set up a controlled experiment, run the experiment, collect and interpret data, repeat multiple times to verify results, publish. Everything from NCSU is research-based making it an outstanding, rock-solid resource, but the process takes time. Leading-edge (experimental/logic-based) gardening is trying it differently on the spot in your own garden (similar, but different because you're running your own semi-controlled experiments and evaluating your own results.) Many reputable sources support companion/cohabitation planting.
Either way there are many great reasons to use herbs as companions in your garden:
- Herbs grow fast providing an exceptional array of seasonings for your culinary delight and most have medicinal value.
- Flowering herbs bring pollinators into your garden - pollinated flowers mature into edible fruit/vegetables.
- Aromatic herbs throw off pheromone navigation (confuse the pests).
- Herbs not only beautify your garden space but lure you out into your garden more often. "Gardens grow best in the gardener's shadow" . . it's always about moving it forward.
- Herbs & pollinator plants are best planted along the edges of your veggie beds.
Barb's Planting Chart - cheat sheet
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Plant Families
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Companion Herbs & Pollinator Plants
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Nightshades
tomato, pepper, eggplant
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Chives, basil, tarragon, parsley, garlic, borage, marigold, mint (in a sunken container) no dill
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Cucurbits
cucumber, squash
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Mint (in container), oregano, rosemary, dill, chives, oregano, borage, beebalm, yarrow, nasturtium, zinnia, sunflowers
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Goosefoot
carrots, beets, kale
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Sage, cilantro, chives, garlic, rosemary, lavender, hyssop
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Legumes
beans, peas
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Sage, rosemary
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Brassica
broccoli, caulif, cabbage
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Dill, lavender, Echinacea,
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Asparagus
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Chives, basil, parsley, nasturtium
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Roses
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Chives
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Strawberries
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Oregano
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Most listed here are perennials in our zone, many of the annuals reseed themselves (or are easy to save and replant your own seed)
If you do spray - even with organic products - be careful, all pesticides kill indiscriminately. Here are a few tips to help you develop 'good practice':
- Spray late in the evening while bees and other beneficial insects are not present.
- Control the spray with a directed nozzle (don't broadcast spray).
- Only spray when the wind is calm.
- Don't spray open flowers, if there are pests in the flowers, shake them out or pick them off and drop into a bucket of soapy water.
- Buy concentrated, organic pesticides and mix your own in small, usable amounts (organic pesticides degrade quickly).
Pyrethrum is my 'go to' organic pesticide . . . (Do NOT confuse it with permethrin which is a toxic synthetic chemical) - look for the 'Y' - Pyrethrum derived from concentrated Chrysanthemum oils - (you can pick, dry, and crush the flowers' petals to make your own safe pyrethrum dust; but as Chrysanthemum blooms in the fall, you'd make it this year for next year) https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/homemade-pesticides-zmaz80mazraw
Spinosad (derived from soil bacterium) is another of my 'go to' organic pesticides. Spinosad is a natural substance made by a soil bacterium that can be toxic to insects. It is a mixture of two chemicals called spinosyn A and spinosyn D. It is used to control a wide variety of pests. These include thrips, leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants, fruit flies and others. http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/spinosadgen.html#whatis
For the bigger, hardier pests - like squash bugs & cucumber beetles, physical interception is nearly a must - scout them daily, pick them off, toss in soapy water bucket (you'll get more comfortable touching them over time.) Check the soil and the underside of the leaves for pests. If you're new to this, IPM (integrated pest management) is a good place to learn about cultural practices that help. https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/8-integrated-pest-management-ipm
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Got Gardening Questions?
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Our Johnston County Extension Master Gardener Volunteers (EMGV) can help with various horticulture questions.
Email the EMGV at jcemastergardener@gmail.com
or call (919) 989-5380
to speak with one of our
Master Gardener Volunteers.
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Landscaping Ideas:
Planting Culinary Herbs
by Pat Rackovan, Johnston County EMGV
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Landscaping with herbs & roses in kitchen gardens -pics by Pat Rackovan
The definition of herbs is those plants that are for culinary, medicinal, coloring or aromatic uses. Some fall into more than one category. Thousands and thousands of plants, including trees, shrubs, grasses, roses, perennials and annuals have been classified as herbs.
One of the many great things about moving to North Carolina from northeast Ohio and northwest Pennsylvania is that many of my favorite culinary herbs winter over here from year to year! Some of my most favorite herbs, (rosemary, lavender, bay leaf, thyme, sage, oregano, and bronze fennel) look beautiful and hardy in my herb garden by the end of March! They would not have survived in the northern states. Others, such as onion and garlic chives, mints, chamomile, lovage, roses and horseradish's always come back. I'm left with replanting my favorite basils, French tarragon, dill, parsley, lemon verbena, summer savory, etc.
If you are focusing on which culinary herbs to plant, think about what you usually use in your kitchen. I find that if I've tried it and then don't use it, I don't plant it the next time. Next think about where to plant them. Whenever possible, you will want to keep them close to the kitchen. I have raised beds just outside the back door. This works well because our ground soil is mostly clay. Another option is doing container gardening which works well for patios, back porches or balconies. Herbs can also be dispersed in your flower or vegetable beds.
Once you've decided on which to plant, you'll need to prepare your herb bed. Test your soil. Most herbs like a soil ph. of 6.5 to 7.2, in a sunny a location with good drainage and slightly sandy soil. A few weeks before the first planting season, weed deep about 6 - 8" to get out most weed roots and loosen the soil. Amend your soil if it needs nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Add a 1" layer of compost.
When you are finally ready to plant either seed or plants, lightly weed, and then add a layer of mulch (1-2") to minimize weeding - keeping mulch 1" away from plant base (to prevent rotting). Water initially. If you get a nice rain, water weekly. If there's a run of very high temperatures water more frequently. A good time to water in the summer is early in the morning or in the evening, before dark. If you are not sure if it's time to water and your plants are not yet wilting, you can check the nearby soil moisture. Brush aside a patch of mulch. If the surface looks dark and moist, replace the mulch and check again in a couple of days. If the soil looks dry, use your spade and go into the ground 2 - 3". If dry, it's time to water.
Control pest and diseases organically using the IPM approach. The most common are aphids, spider mites, white flies and powdery mildew.
Some herbs are notorious for becoming invasive. Mints and horseradish are good examples of roots or stems spreading. Control them by planting them in bottomless (12" deep) plastic, metal pots or buckets sunk into the soil to level. Another way is to contain the spread of seed - deadhead the flowers that appear on them such as chives. (I love to use these in salads or wine vinegars!) Or grow the invasive herbs in pots on your porch.
The most rewarding time is harvesting your plants! Once you get used to planting herbs from your garden you will tend to add a few more each year. Nothing beats using fresh herbs in your cooking. There are many ways of preserving them over the winter months. I dry several herb combinations and put in shakers. I also make herb wine vinegars for gifts to my family and friends. Many herbs can be infused in oils and butter. There are endless ways to use herbs in your cooking and as gifts.
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- The best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn. Learn how to care for your lawn throughout the year. Visit TurfFile and click on Turf Tips to learn more about your lawn type. Keep it happy, healthy, and weed free.
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Don't fertilize cool-season turf grass (fescue, bluegrass). It has been growing actively all
winter, and it will begin to go dormant as summer heats up. Let it slow down naturally,
and it will be better able to withstand the heat and drought of summer. Call for a Lawn
Maintenance Calendar for your type of turf. It tells you how to care for your lawn month
by month - such things as fertilization, mowing and watering.
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Most of the weeds you see now are winter annuals. The time to control these was last
August. In a couple of weeks, the weather will be too hot for these winter annuals, and
they will start dying. Don't waste time and money spraying them with herbicide. The
best thing to do is mow them before they produce and spread seed. Mark your calendar to spray in August.
- Warm-season grasses such as Bermuda, Zoysia, or Centipede can be planted now. Mow cool-season grasses, such as Fescues, at a height of 3-3 1/2 inches to help them survive hot, dry periods.
- Sharpen mower blades! A sharp blade cuts. A dull blade tears, making grass susceptible to diseases.
- Check out the various turfgrasses for your area and learn how best to care for your lawn.
Click on each type of grass for individual maintenance calendar:
TREES, SHRUBS, & ORNAMENTALS
- Pinch your plants. Use your index finger and thumbnail to break out the lead growth at tips of branches. Pinched plants have shorter, sturdier stems, more lateral branching and more blooms. Pinch back mums, zinnia, salvia, cockscomb (celosia), petunias, marigolds, snapdragons, and garden phlox.
- It's time to plant summer beauties such as gladiolus, dahlias, caladiums, cannas and those colorful bedding plants.
- Dead or diseased limbs on woody ornamentals should be apparent by now. Prune them out.
- Stake floppy plants, such as peonies, dahlias, and Boltonia (Michaelmas daisy), while they're small so they'll have support when they need it. After plants have grown large, they are difficult to stake.
- Cut roses properly. Removing too much wood and foliage when cutting flowers seriously weakens your rose bushes, especially during the first year. Leave 2-3 well developed leaves (groups of five leaflets, not three) between the cut and the main stem.
- Grow great bearded iris by giving them excellent drainage, fertile soil, sunshine, and beds free of competing weeds and grass. Divide frequently (in August) for larger and finer blooms.
- Prune spring-flowering shrubs after they bloom. The best time to prune azalea, rhododendron, forsythia, spirea, flowering quince, kerria, pieris, and weigela is just as flowers begin to fade. Don't wait till summer, or you'll cut off next year's flower buds. To keep your shrubs ever young, prune one-third of the oldest canes back to the ground each year.
- Prune wisteria frequently throughout the summer to control vegetative growth and get better blooms next spring.
- Keep dogwoods healthy. Spot anthracnose and powdery mildew are two major disease problems that show up on dogwood trees in late spring and summer. To help dogwoods overcome diseases keep them watered, maintain soil fertility, and clean up fallen leaves to minimize the spread of the disease.
- MULCH! Prepare for dry summer weather and control weeds at the same time by using a layer of mulch 2-3 inches thick.
- Banish bermudagrass (wiregrass) from your planting beds. Keep it pulled to prevent it from overrunning your garden.
- Plant seeds of annual vines such as moonflower, scarlet runner beans or passionflower. Mix plants with the same growing requirements in your container gardens. Do not mix sun-loving and shade-loving plants together in the same container.
VEGETABLES & FRUITS
- Plant veggies now that the soil is warm and the danger of frost is past. Sow seeds of beans, squash, cucumbers, and corn. Set out transplants of tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and okra. Vegetable Gardening: A Beginner's Guide can be found here. Pinching also works well for many vegetable plants, including tomatoes and peppers.
- Watch out for slugs. These soft, slimy, slender pests have a special taste for tender young crops. Holes in leaves or on the leaf margins and a silvery slime trail in the morning indicate a slug feast the previous night. Slugs hide under boards, stones or debris during the day.
- Train and support tomatoes, pole beans, peppers, and eggplants. Side dress sweet corn when it is knee-high.
- Make consecutive plantings of beans over a few weeks to extend your harvest.
Landscape Ideas
- Plant vegetables in your flower beds! Eggplant, pepper varieties, and cherry tomatoes make colorful additions to the garden. Bush beans and climbing beans have attractive foliage and charming small flowers. Vegetables can also mingle with flowers in pots on a patio or deck.
- Welcome back hummingbirds! Females will be in the area first; the males will follow soon. Salvias, honeysuckles, penstemons, and other tube-shaped flowers, especially red ones, will attract hummingbirds to your garden. Fill feeders with a solution of 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. Wash feeders and replace the food at least twice a week.
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Helpful Links from Johnston County Cooperative Extension
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Announcements:
Updated Soil Testing Info.
NCDA&CS Soil Sampling Facility labs are now accepting routine soil samples!
The NCDA&CS Soil Sampling Facility labs will be operating under reduced staffing. Although longer than normal sample turnaround times may be expected, we are accepting all routine client samples (soil, nematode, plant, waste, solution and soilless media) except waste samples covered by the NCDEQ waiver on liquid animal waste .
See website link for more information.
The Master Gardener Annual Plant Sale
Will be held on October 10th 2020
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For more information visit:
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