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February 2021 (181)

Featured Video: Pipe Repair with SharkBite

SharkBite provides a quick DIY fix for broken pipes. Jim demonstrates making the connections for either copper or PEX plumbing.

Your Questions -- Jim's Answers

Insulating Single-Pane Windows Gordon has noticed cold air coming through his single-pane windows and Jim gives him some ideas how to insulate them.

Treating Mold On House Exterior Ron has mold growing on his gutters and back porch and is seeking the most effective and safest way to remove it.

Jim's done the work for you. Find a list of THI Trusted Contractors Here.

From Jim's Notebook: A Word About Broken Pipes

After this week many of us have leaks in our water lines. These leaks are occurring mostly in copper pipes and more specifically Class M copper pipes. You may not realize it but there are different classes of copper pipes: Class M which is the thinnest then Class L and Class K. Most track builders use Class M and in general Class M will not hold up to freezing temperatures, and the imported Class M pipes have shown to be even weaker. But the bigger problem is the lack of supplies to fix copper. There is plenty of pipe itself available, but you cannot get the fittings right now, as soon as they hit the shelf they are gone. But you have options, it is totally acceptable to go from copper to PEX or CPVC (notice I didn’t mention just PVC and that is because it is only rated for cold water but the CPVC can do both cold and hot water lines) and back to copper. These pipes and fittings are a little more available and meet plumbing codes.   Building new? If you are going with copper pipes use at least Class L, but if I was building new I would use PEX.

From Jim's Notebook: Hiring A Contractor

If the recent storms have left your house damaged you are likely now searching for a quality contractor to do the work. Take some time to find the best choice by asking the right questions up front. •  How long has the contractor been working under the current name? Ideal for it to be at least 3-5 years as a business under the current name - not just "years of experience". •  Does your work require a license? •  Do they have an office? Working out of a garage or pick-up truck = here today, gone tomorrow. •  Does the contractor carry insurance? General liability and worker's comp are a must. Provided they have worker's comp insurance, if a worker gets hurt on the job the property owner cannot be sued. •  Does the contractor have their own employee's, use sub-contractors or both? Beware of the suitcase contractor - a real contractor will at least have some employees of their own and use subs for specialty jobs. •  Are there unanswered complaints with the BBB? Any business can have complaints against them. The good ones always answer regardless of the complaint. •  Is your contractor willing to give you a reference list? •  Will your contractor stay on the job once it starts or will they be bouncing around between projects? •  Will you provide a well-written contract that covers all the bases that will be mutually agreed upon.  And remember: •  You do not need sign the contract on the first visit. Don't let the contractor pressure you into signing by saying the price is only good for today. Sleep on it and if they won't honor the price the next day find another contractor. •  Never pay upfront when you sign the contract. Clearly negotiate the schedule of payments with the first being when the work begins with the final being due upon completion.

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Thanks for listening - Jim Dutton