Autumn greets us with a "last hurrah," a time to enjoy the colors and savor the beauty of our gardens, parks and trails.

Black Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica), Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Fothergilla (Fothergilla gardenii), Gingko (Gingko biloba)

photo by E Barth-Elias

The fall drama unfolds, and maples take center stage. Their crimson, orange, and yellow leaves are breathtaking, and trips to view their glorious colors a fall highlight. But the fall show is really an ensemble production, with many not-to-be-missed beauties, plants whose fall colors complement and even rival the glowing maples. Check out:

Black tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica) is tops on many arborists’ lists. This native’s shiny, dark summer leaves turn a brilliant scarlet in the fall. Its taproot, which makes it more challenging to plant (container plants are recommended), also makes it more drought-tolerant than many other trees. But it’s the fall color…

The maroon to burgundy fall color of oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) gets better with each frost. Add in exfoliating (peeling) bark and it’s a stunner. Oakleaf hydrangeas are shade plants—fall color in the shade!

Fothergilla (Fothergilla gardenii) greets fall with a medley of oranges, reds, and yellows. This witch hazel relative comes in all sizes, and, like the above plants, offers four seasons of interest. (See this lovely plant profiled below.)

Gingko (Gingko biloba), blueberries (Vaccinium spp.), chokeberries (Aronia spp.), bottlebrush buckeyes (Aesculus parviflora), viburnum (Viburnum spp.), serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)—the list of trees and shrubs with exceptional fall color is long. And don’t sell perennials short—hostas (Hosta spp.), barrenwort (Epimedium spp.), bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii), plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides), and a host of others are fall stars.

The fall production is in full swing. Take note of lesser-known, but oh-so-colorful cast members. Look around!

K Edgington

Fothergilla in full fall glory

photo by Stein Leland

Pumpkins, scarecrows, and football, are all hallmarks of autumn, but for gardeners, it’s all about fall color, and Fothergilla scores a touchdown!

Fothergilla, also known as witch alder, and a member of the witch hazel family (Hamamelidaceae), is a deciduous shrub native to the southern United States. It grows well in Ohio as it is hardy to zone 4 or 5 (depending on the variety). In the spring, it displays distinctive 1-3” bottle brush-type blooms with a wonderful sweet scent that attracts early pollinators. The flowers last 2-3 weeks and are then eclipsed by oval leaves that burst forth on multi-branched alternating stems. Fothergillas's somewhat leathery foliage comes into its own in the fall with a brilliant show of yellow, orange, red, and burgundy as autumn progresses. The display extends into November when most shrubs have called it quits for the year. Coloring is influenced by moisture levels, sunlight, ambient temperatures, and genetics so leaf hues will differ each year.

Conveniently, fothergilla only has two species: large (Fothergilla latifolia) and small or dwarf (Fothergilla gardenii). Both look similar except for size but their traits differ slightly. The large shrubs grow along ridges, riverbanks, and drier areas in zones 4-8, reaching 4-15’ tall and 6-12’ wide, depending on the cultivar. The dwarf varieties prefer moist, well-drained, acidic soil in zones 5-9. They top out at 3-6’ tall and 2-6’ wide. Both prefer full sun, and will tolerate light shade, but fall color won’t be as impressive.

This easy-to-grow shrub fits into many garden schemes. It makes a lovely specimen plant in a cottage garden, along foundations, as a hedge or in other mass plantings. Plant fothergilla near a deck or doorway to take advantage of the fragrance. It’s a great alternative to spirea or the invasive burning bush, which it rivals for fall color. Pests or diseases are not a major problem, nor are deer or rabbits. Suckering can be an issue, especially gardenii, so keep them trimmed for a more controlled shrub. Avoid extensive pruning to maintain its rounded, fan silhouette. Planting is best in the cooler months of spring or fall. Fothergilla is difficult to germinate from seed, requiring 9-15 months to sprout, but can also be propagated from the suckers (or root pieces) which can simply be replanted.  Feed it a dash of acid fertilizer in the spring and you should be good to go.

If you have a Goldilocks moment and discover one species is too big and one is too small then “Mt. Airy” (Fothergilla intermedia) may be just right. This commonly found cultivar is a cross between the two species and reaches 5-6’ in height.  “Mt. Airy” has an Ohio connection in that it was first discovered in the Mount Airy Arboretum in Cincinnati where the species grow side by side, a condition not usually found in nature. Other cultivars include “Harold Epstein”, a dwarf that only grows to 15 inches and has great fall color. Red Monarch™ is a “Mount Airy” hybrid with a spectacular cherry red color and good cold hardiness. It’s substantial at 8‘ tall and 6’ wide.

In addition to fall color and cute flowers, Fothergilla is a host plant to many native butterflies, including the monarch, and birds use it for protective cover. This low-maintenance plant has many wonderful attributes and its spooky nickname “witch alder” adds to its autumn allure!

FOTHERGILLA-A FOUR SEASON SHRUB TO CONSIDER FOR YOUR GARDEN: Pennsylvania State University Extension

 J Gramlich

A bald-faced hornet nest, the entrance, and bald-faced hornets up close and personal.

photos by E Barth-Elias and Keri Ciafaretto

I’m a bald-faced hornet (Dolichovespula maculate), and yes, I have a slight anger problem. For good reasons, starting with my name.

I'm NOT a hornet. There are no true hornets in Ohio except the non-native European hornet (Vespa genus). Hornets, wasps, bees and ants belong to the Hymenoptera order. Yellowjackets, paper wasps and bald-faced hornets belong to the Vespidae family and are all considered WASPS; bees are part of the Apidae family.

I'm also NOT bald. BF hornets are nowhere near as hairy as bees, but we do have a few strands of facial hair (setae), carefully combed.

BF hornets are distinguished from yellowjackets by creamy-white marks on our otherwise black thorax, legs, abdomen and face. (This is where the inaccurate and insulting moniker "bald-faced" comes from.) We are about ¾ of an inch long, and like all wasps have compound eyes, two pairs of wings, one pair of antennae and a fashionably narrow waist (petiole).

As highly social (eusocial) insects, we represent the pinnacle of insect society. Our colony is a “superorganism” — each one of us plays a part that ensures the survival of the whole. Here’s how it works…

A fertilized queen spends winter sheltering under bark, rock piles, or in hollow trees, emerging in spring to search for nest sites high up in trees or bushes, and sometimes on or near buildings (potentially a fatal mistake).

Using her mandibles, the queen scrapes fibers from rotting or weathered wood on trees, fence posts, etc. Watch HERE. She chews the fibers, creating a paste that dries into a papery material, which she uses to build her nest. Cai Lun, the human credited with inventing paper (China,105 BC), apparently got the idea from watching us. Did we get a thank you? How about royalties?

The queen makes brood cells with the fiber, lays eggs, and takes care of her larvae, who mature into sterile female workers in about 4 weeks. (BF hornets are holometabolous— they undergo complete metamorphosis). This starter nest is under two inches long. The workers enlarge and guard the nest, while the queen focuses on laying eggs and practicing mindfulness. Workers are also the colony’s hunters, snagging caterpillars, flies, yellowjackets and other pests, which they chew before feeding to the larvae. (Adult hornets generally only feed on sugary liquids like nectar and sap.)

The finished nest is football-shaped, with multiple layers of brood cells covered by a papery envelope and a small entrance at the bottom (there may be other entrances). Its light grey coloring can vary depending upon the color of wood used in its making. Notice how white THIS NEST is—and the color of the surrounding wood.

Nests are difficult to spot early on but become more visible as they grow—to over 2 feet long, housing several hundred hornets. (Biggest nest ever was over 12 feet long!) Nests are truly works of art. See THIS.

As summer ends we become especially edgy as our society breaks down. The queen lays eggs that become male drones and new queens. Males mate with the females and die, and fertilized queens leave to overwinter in a protected spot. Everyone else freezes. As queens start new nests each year, feel free to collect the old ones, but first make sure all inhabitants are deceased. HERE are some tips.

We are beneficial insects—we reduce pest populations and act as pollinators. Don’t bother us, we won’t bother you. But threaten our nests? We get EXTREMELY angry. You’ll know how angry as we DRIVE our stingers straight into your body without bothering to land first. You’ll feel our fury as we sting you REPEATEDLY (we can as we have smooth stingers). Even our venom is toxic—causing pain, itching and swelling. No big deal—unless you’re allergic, and go into anaphylactic shock, which can be a very big deal. Survival of the fittest, we say.

Avoid our nests—we are happy to avoid you. (One caveat—in late summer we may visit your picnic table or hummingbird feeder, searching for high-energy carbohydrates to feed newborn princesses.)

If we build a nest too close, you may want to remove it, but it won't be easy. These articles might give you a fighting chance: HERE and HERE. Or you could hire a professional. Whatever happens, I guarantee BF hornets will NOT become your BFFs...

Check out the inside of a BF hornet nest HERE.

C Christian

Imagine this home without the surrounding trees!

Photo by Dave Logan

The benefits of growing trees on home landscapes are undeniable. For instance, did you know that well-placed trees can offer up to a 25% reduction in heating and cooling costs in a home? Mature trees enhance a home’s aesthetic and property value, not to mention the myriad physical, ecological, mental health, and quality-of-life benefits. However, determining which tree will provide the greatest benefit in your yard can be less clear.

Selecting trees means considering features like size, shape, growth habit, color, and flowering or fruiting qualities. Large trees naturally require exponentially more resources such as sun, water, and space—including room for an ever-expanding root system and canopy.

As the list of favorites narrows during the selection process, keep in mind the tree’s average growth rate. Trees can be categorized into three growth-rate groups based on annual height increases:

●    Fast-growing trees: greater than 25 inches per year

●    Medium-growing trees: 13-24 inches per year

●    Slow-growing trees: less than 12 inches per year

Choosing a tree for your garden requires an understanding of your landscaping goals and the timeline you have in mind. If your goals include creating short-term shade or privacy, fast growing trees may be an ideal solution. They are also wonderful for filling spaces or making an instant visual impact. Examples of fast-growing trees:

• Pin Oak (Quercus palustris) Growth Rate: more than 25 inches per year with mature height of 60-70 feet
• Thuja ‘Green Giant’ (Thuja standishii x plicata) Growth Rate: up to 36 inches/year mature height: 50-60 feet
• White Pine (Pinus strobus) Growth Rate: up to 36 inches/year, mature height: 80-100 feet
• Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) Growth Rate: More than 25 inches per year, mature height: 70-90 feet
• Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis) Growth Rate: More than 25 inches per year mature height: 75-100 feet
• Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides) Growth Rate: More than 25 inches per year, mature height: 70-100 feet
• Red Maple (Acer rubrum) Growth Rate: More than 25 inches per year, mature height: 40-70 feet

While slow-growing trees require patience, they often have stronger wood, longer lifespans, and resistance to pests and disease. They make wonderful specimen plantings, maturing over decades to become a lasting legacy. Examples of slow-growing trees:

• White Oak (Quercus alba) Growth Rate: less than 12 inches per year with a mature height of 50-80 feet
• Chinkapin Oak (Quercus muehlenbergii) Growth Rate: up to 12 inches/year with a mature height: 40-60 feet
• Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa) Growth Rate: less than 12 inches per year with mature height of 70-80 feet
• Eastern Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) Growth Rate: less than 12 inches/year mature height: up to 170 feet (oldest recorded: 988 years!)
• Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) Growth Rate: 6-12 inches/year with mature height: 10-25 feet
• Serbian Spruce (Picea omorika) Growth Rate: less than 12 inches/year with mature height: 50-60 feet

Of course, growing conditions impact the speed of growth—sufficiently deep, fertile soil, enough water, and adequate sunlight. Proper drainage is also essential. While fertilizing promotes faster growth, it is generally not recommended because it can weaken the tree, making it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Finally, minimizing competition with surrounding plants leads to healthier and more robust growth. Less optimal conditions will likely slow growth. For example, growing a full-sun loving tree in partial shade is likely to slow its growth. 

Both slow and fast growing trees bring something to the table. Choose trees with your goals in mind, and provide them with optimal growing conditions to maximize the value they bring to your landscape.

E Barth-Elias

Artwork and sculpture complement the beautiful plants at the Cleveland Cultural Gardens.

photos by S Vradenburg

Cleveland’s reputation as a melting pot is well-deserved. Its factories have attracted workers from throughout the world, creating a rich blend of peoples and languages. This cultural heritage has been highlighted every August since 1945 as the city welcomes visitors to the Cleveland Cultural Gardens. A chain of pocket parks stretching from the east Shoreway to University Circle, the Cleveland Cultural Gardens is dedicated to “Peace Through Mutual Understanding.”

Thirty six individual gardens represent just a few of the nations whose peoples, for more than 200 years, have built this industrial metropolis south of Lake Erie. The gardens began with the 1896 donation by John D. Rockefeller of 36 acres of land between Lake Erie and University Circle. Designed by proteges of famed landscape architect Fredrick Law Olmsted, these verdant oases told the story of people who found opportunity in a new land and expressed their gratitude from the depths of their histories. Rockefeller added 10 acres at the northern end of the parkway for a botanical garden and greenhouse, not to be confused with the Cleveland Botanical Garden, created in 1930 by women founders of the Cleveland Garden Center.

Leo Weidenthal, editor and publisher of the Jewish Independent, proposed in 1916 to build a garden in honor of William Shakespeare, including a bust of William Shakespeare, to represent the British people: the first garden. The Hebrew Garden, marked by three Cedars of Lebanon trees, was the second site, in 1926. The idea of cultural representation through landscape and sculpture took hold, and over time Cleveland’s multiple ethnic groups designed and built areas along the meandering roadway depicting their homelands through art, poetry and their nation’s native plants. The Cleveland Cultural Gardens Federation, formed in the early 1920s, is the non-profit organization representing all the countries with established gardens or those in some phase of development.

As with many public projects that took shape during the 1930s and ‘40s, the federal Works Progress Administration provided funds and labor for much of the stonework in the gardens that line the parkway. The entire string of gardens, unique in the United States, gained a listing on the National Register of Historic Places in 2005. Now officially administered by the Cleveland Cultural Gardens Federation, the area encompasses 254 acres—all the land between Martin Luther King Boulevard and East Boulevard including nearby Doan Brook. Gardens still being planned or under construction include French, Egyptian, Mexican, Native American, Peruvian, Scottish, Uzbek, Colombian, African American and Palestinian.

Every year, Clevelanders gather in the gardens to celebrate One World Day. Acknowledging the city’s global draw and despite the rain, this year’s 78th annual celebration started with a naturalization ceremony for 26 new U.S. citizens and included a parade of flags and ethnic food and dancing.

It’s hard to believe this shady thoroughfare threaded by Doan Brook almost disappeared under federal highway expansion in the 1960s. Fortunately, local citizens gathered to champion the cause of what was then Liberty Boulevard and surrounding acreage. Even after that rescue, the roadway wasn’t yet out of danger. As newspaper headlines in January 1978 kept asking, “Whatever happened to the cultural gardens?” It wasn’t until the 1990s that restoration of the parkway’s namesake gardens began in earnest.

Cleveland has many treasures, but none more emblematic of the city’s melting pot status than the Cleveland Cultural Gardens. Beginning at the lake that brought so many peoples and industries to Ohio and flowing into University Circle, the gardens are home to some of the world’s most important cultural and educational institutions, living proof that when people join to express their heritage, the result enriches all that surrounds them.

For more background, schedules of events and parking information go to: www.clevelandculturalgardens.org

                         S Vradenburg

October Checklist:

• Continue putting the vegetable garden to bed, cover with hay, or a cover crop and plant garlic and horseradish.
• Divide overcrowded perennials and plant trees and shrubs.    
• Harvest and preserve herbs for winter soups and stews. Bake or enjoy an apple pie.
• Dig up tender bulbs and tubers like dahlias, canna lilies, gladiolus, and caladiums. Store in a cool, dry location. STORING TENDER "BULBS" FOR WINTER: University of Wisconsin Extension
• Begin planting spring bulbs. Try something new!
• Aerate lawns where the soil is compacted. Cut grass to 2-2 ½ “ in height to combat snow mold in winter. LAWN AERATION: West Virginia Extension

J Gramlich