|
1800 Wednesday August 24
The morning began with dense cloud and spitting rain as we left Burnside shortly before the morning ferry. With a favorable southwesterly we were able to wend our way amongst the myriad, scattered islands of Bonavista Bay. It felt like a maze upon the sea as we trimmed sails with each turn as one beautiful vista revealed the next. As the morning passed, the sun chased away the rain and clouds. We were sailing in T-shirts as Tazzarin passed island after island. The open ocean was hardly ever in sight with the islands dappling the bay.
By mid-day we reached Bloody Reach and sailed further out Bonavista Bay, tacking downwind in smooth seas. Early afternoon had us feeling the swells rolling in off the North Atlantic. We opted to take a slightly more scenic route, passing alongside Puffin Island Lighthouse, painted in the classic Canadian red and white scheme. Behind Puffin Island was the outport community of Greenspond. The town is situated on a small island connected to mainland Newfoundland by a causeway and bridge. It happens to be the home of the engineer from the ferry Grace Sparkes that left Burnside with us this morning. Truly, these small outports, clinging to land by the sea, with small churches built by fisherman are among the most beautiful towns anywhere. A view of Greenspond is in the photo below.
Tonight we are anchored in a stunning cove, protected on all sides by rocky hills covered in stunted, dark green pine, lush grasses, light green mosses and orange lichens. Two or three small cottages are here with little docks or fishing stages. We were anchored by 1530 in warm sunshine. The seawater looked inviting on this summer day; so, David and I both took short swims and lathered up with salt water soap. Brisk! Feeling refreshed we ate dinner in the cockpit watching as a rainbow, passing showers and the rumble of distant thunder storms echoed. Could not have been better!
One closing thought for today has to do with a distressing situation with local birds. Last week when Annie and I were sailing we probably saw over a dozen puffins or common murres floating, belly-up in the sea. David and I have seen some. Further investigation and conversations with locals has revealed that the avian/bird flu H5N1 is the cause. Families around the bays are concerned about the bird populations. The puffin rescue group that works in Witless Bay near St. John’s had to stop their work this summer due to fears that they would spread the disease further. Mary Hogan back in Burnside expressed concern that it could spread to seals – it is now occurring. It is a reminder of both the value and fragility of the ecosystems.
David and I are turning in early tonight. We are aiming for an early start to make the 57 mile run to Fogo Island on the edge of Notre Dame Bay tomorrow.
Bill
| 
