It begins...welcome to spring days, when tired never felt so good.

Names can be deceiving. The Swedish ivy on the left (Plectranthus australis) is neither Swedish nor an ivy. The skunk cabbage on the right (Symplocarpus foetidus) is a member of the Arum family, and not a cabbage at all.

photos by E Barth-Elias

What’s in a name? Is a moss rose a moss? A rose? As a matter of fact, neither, but a member of the portulaca family with the Latin name Portulaca grandiflora. Depending on where you live in the US, you may know it as purslane, eleven o’clock, Mexican rose, sun rose, rose moss, or sun plant. THAT can get confusing! 

Horticulturalists and other plant people use Latin binomial (having two terms) names as a way of classifying and understanding plants. By categorizing plants into groups, we can predict their habits and characteristics.  All members of the quercus genus (oaks) have acorns, all rosa (roses) have their flower parts in multiples of five, all acer (maples) have opposite branching and limb structure… Most importantly, when using Latin binomials there is never confusion about which plant we mean. 

Latin binomial names were created so that people worldwide could communicate about plants (and animals) in a clear way. The first term in the name is the plant’s genus, and the second is the species. There may be additional words that further classify and describe the plant. Sometimes the words are descriptive. Campanula means bell-shaped, strepto means twisted, hirtus means hairy, dentata means toothed, alba means white. When we become familiar with these Latin descriptors we begin to know something about the plant in question.

In some cases, the Latin and common names are the same, as with hydrangeas and irises. Others may be similar, for example, a pine belongs to the genus pinus. But in most cases, they are not even close—Amelanchier alnifolia doesn’t sound anything like serviceberry.

Plant names can change. Sometimes a plant has been named twice or more, and the subsequent name is then changed to reflect the first published name (The Rule of Priority of Publication). More often, advances in botanical knowledge and the use of DNA studies dictate a change in classification and therefore in nomenclature. When that happens, a collective “GEEEEZE” is heard in varying languages around the world as plant people scramble to learn the new name and change it on documents, databases, and labels. It is frustrating, but part of the process of correctly labeling and understanding plants. As OSU Extension Professor Emeritus Jim Chatfield tells us, “Science is trying to describe nature better over time.”

Do we need to use this binomial plant-speak and give up the charm of such names as obedience plant, bleeding heart, black-eyed Susan, and kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate? Not necessarily, but learning the Latin names will help to both communicate about plants and understand them. And Fothergilla gardenii does trip so liltingly off the tongue… Look Around!

Click HERE for the meanings of some commonly used Latin plant terms.

K Edgington

Magnolia virginiana (sweet bay magnolia)

photo by E Barth-Elias

Magnolias conjure up images of antebellum mansions and Spanish moss along the coastal south, but many are native here in Ohio. A favorite is the sweet bay magnolia because of its beautiful leaves and flowers, adaptability to soil conditions, and manageable size.

The sweet bay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) is a striking semi-evergreen with broad, flat leaves that are glossy on top and silvery on the underside, and reaches a height of 20-25'. Its elegant growth habit provides structure and sophistication to outdoor spaces.

Tolerant of both sun and part shade, it is hardy to zone 5. In more northern climes it forms multiple trunks and becomes more shrublike, while sweet bays in the deep south are more erect and may reach 60 feet in height. These magnolias love moist acidic soil, favoring low areas or sites along streams in the wild.

Most people would agree that the sweet bay's blooms are a showstopper. The creamy, buttery blossoms reach 2-3 inches in diameter with 9-12 petals each. Better yet, they have a wonderful citrusy fragrance. Many magnolias disappoint when the blooms are nipped by spring frost, but sweet bays bloom late enough in the season, late May into June, to avoid this calamity. Each bloom lasts 2-3 days, closing up at night. Sweet bays will bloom sporadically through the summer, an added bonus. After blooming, the tree produces a small pine cone-sized fruit that turns red in the fall. It is said that the fruit smells heavenly when crushed. I’m anxious to try this.

Sweet bay is pretty carefree, but it can suffer from chlorosis in alkaline soils, causing yellowing leaves due to a chlorophyll deficiency. While deer don't eat the plant, they will rub the trunk with their antlers. Protection when planting may be required. Sweet bay is considered semi-evergreen because it may die back or lose its leaves in a harsh winter in its northern range.

There are several cultivars available that give gardeners options. ‘Emerald Tower’ and ‘Northern Belle’ are both hardy to zone 4. ‘Tensaw’ is a dwarf variety reaching 15’ with smaller leaves. If size is important, go with ‘Jim Wilson’ (Also sold as Moonglow®). It's taller, at 35’, and has larger blooms, 3 inches across.

Sweet bay magnolia would be a great choice to shade a patio or provide privacy where you can enjoy the fragrance. It’s a good option if you have to work around power lines or other obstructions. Whether it’s used in a rain garden, foundation planting, or as a single ornamental accent, it will look fabulous wherever it finds a home. Like a southern lady wearing a string of pearls, it will add a touch of class to your landscape.

J Gramlich

Polyester bees nesting at the Toledo Botanical Garden

photos by Denise Ellsworth

BZZZZZ… You humans hear that noise, and think honey bees, hives, maybe Winnie the Pooh. But we bees know that of the 20,000+ species of bees in the world, most don’t live in hives, and most don’t make honey. Seventy percent of all bees are ground nesters—living right under your feet—and living there right about this time of year!



It’s not fair that the 30% of bees who live in cavities get all the attention—especially the flashy honey bees (Apis mellifera), imported from Europe to make honey and pollinate crops. Yes, honey bees do what they’re supposed to, pollinating about 1/3 of our food supply. However, hard-working, unassuming (and good looking) native ground nesting bees pollinate about 80% of all flowering plants. That’s a very bee-g deal! See HERE for a list of wild ground and cavity-dwelling bees found in Ohio.

And while we may be digging holes in your lawn (for our homes!), we certainly aren’t responsible for those nasty stings you get while mowing it. The roughly 4,000 species of us in North America are quite docile and rarely sting, and even if we really wanted to, our venom is too weak to hurt.

So if we didn’t orchestrate the backyard attack, who did? I’m pointing my stinger at ground nesting yellowjackets (Vespula spp.). They can be nasty and their sting stings. Watch HERE. Ground nesting bumble bees can also be chippy, but are easy to identify due to their large size and fuzziness. (Did you know that only female bees can sting? The stinger is a modified ovipositor, an egg-laying organ only found in females.)

Wait, where do bumble bees fit in? To simplify (and with 20,000 species this is extremely simple)—you can categorize bees as honeybees, bumble bees and solitary bees. Honeybees and bumble bees are “social”—they live and work together—while solitary bees are, well, solitary—living and working alone. We ground nesters are mostly solitary although sometimes our nests are located near each other in bee neighborhoods. THIS PIECE discusses social vs. solitary

Our life cycle varies, but most ground nesters spend 90% of our lives in those nests morphing from egg to adult. When we do emerge in mid to late spring, we get busy fast! Mom chooses a sunny, dry area with little vegetation (like where you’d find ant hills) to dig her nest, using saliva and mandibles to excavate through soil and creating tunnels about ¼ inch in diameter and 6 inches long. She may dig separate tunnels for each of her approximately ten eggs or create separate branches off the main entrance. Some species coat the walls of the tunnel with mud or a waxy substance mom produces to keep out moisture and bacteria. Semi-social ground nesters may share a common entrance tunnel, but nothing else.



Our hard-working moms provision their nests by collecting pollen and nectar to form “bee bread,” placing it in the tunnels and laying eggs on top, ensuring larvae have food when they hatch. Females generally only lay eggs once and then the party’s over—male bees die shortly after mating while females only live a few weeks longer. Adults emerge next spring and the cycle begins again. THIS VIDEO shows mining bees nesting, with bonus info on the parasitic cuckoo bee.

There are more than 400 species of us in Ohio, so there’s lots of variety in the bees you see. We can be metallic, green, copper or blue, and are generally ½ to ¾ inches long. Like all bees, we are vegetarians and have hair to collect pollen. As noted above, we are wonderful pollinators; many of us specialize in pollinating certain plants. The mining bee (Andrena erigeniae) prefers spring-beauties but visits other spring ephemerals when they aren’t available. Squash bees (Peponapis pruinosa) generally nest near or in pumpkin, zucchini and squash patches, specializing in genus Cucurbita (gourd) plants. These rockstars dig nests up to 18 inches deep! Dull green sweat bees (Lasioglossum spp.) are quite common and may be semi-social. (FYI “Spp.” means “several species.”)

So we are an incredibly valuable part of the ecosystem. How can you help us thrive? Let leaves stay on the ground through spring, providing cover for our nests. Limit mulch, as we can’t dig through it, or mulch with compost. Eliminate tilling, as that can kill us. Don’t use pesticides, and support legislation that limits them. We'll move if we don't like your soil, so if you really don’t want us around, water more frequently, or take steps to increase the density of your lawn. But why wouldn’t you want a sweet, gentle partner in nature like me in your backyard???

For an interesting discussion about me watch THIS.

Watch MY COOL CALIFORNIA COUSINS livin’ large on the beach:

C Christian

From left to right: buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), bottlebrush buckeye (Aesculus parviflora), elderberry (Sambucus spp.), arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum) , spicebush (Lindera benzoin)

photos by E Barth-Elias

OK, so maybe winter didn’t really show up this year. Still, it’s officially time to scout for landscape shrubs that will not only look gorgeous, but provide more than just a pretty face in your landscape. Native shrubs fit the bill. Not only can they beautify your garden, they provide native insects and birds the food and shelter they need to thrive, thus enhancing your yard's biodiversity.

While there are many candidates to choose from, here are five natives that can be found at most local nurseries or online. They are relatively easy to care for and in some cases provide extras, like luscious berries. All do well in full sun, although spicebush, some viburnums, and bottlebrush buckeye also thrive nestled in the understory.

BOTTLEBRUSH BUCKEYE (Aesculus parviflora) is a large shrub whose fragrant, foot-long, upright blossoms put on a magnificent display in the spring. They are a magnet for pollinators, and have the ovate, opposite compound leaves characteristic of all buckeyes. The shrub can grow to 10-12’ tall and wide and so plant it with room to grow. Often an understory tree, bottlebrush buckeyes can also tolerate full sun although leaf scorch is possible.

BUTTONBUSH (Cephalanthus occidentalis) is native to North America from Nova Scotia to the Southeast and into parts of Arizona, New Mexico and northern Mexico, and is common in wetlands. Named for tubular flowers growing in tight clusters at the ends of branches, with styles that rise above the flowers, it resembles a pincushion. Buttonbush nectar draws hummingbirds, bees and butterflies, and bees use the nectar for honey production. It blooms June through September.

ELDERBERRY (Sambucus spp.) is a deciduous woody shrub that grows 8-10’ tall and wide. It is native to forested and temperate areas in the northern and southern hemispheres. Two species, S. nigra and S. canadensis are more commonly used for their fruits and juice, which are immune system boosters and have antioxidant properties. Elderberry health benefits have been recorded by the ancient Greeks and Romans as well as indigenous people across the globe. More than 120 species of birds feed on elderberries, and its wispy, lace cap elder flowers provide native bees with nesting material. For best berry production, remove the flowers the first two years to focus plant energy on roots and foliage. Plant the wind-pollinated shrubs no farther apart than 60 feet for best berry production.

SPICEBUSH (Lindera benzoin) is well-named for the fragrance that wafts from broken twigs, leaves or fruit. It is native to eastern North America. Often found as an understory plant, this shrub will grow to 6-12’ tall and wide. Spicebush is found in a variety of soils and light conditions and has few insect pest or disease problems. It blooms early in the season, providing needed food for a variety of insect pollinators. It is host to the caterpillars of the spicebush swallowtail butterfly (Papilio Troilus), promethea moth (Callosamia promethea) and eastern tiger swallowtail (Papilio glaucus). Spicebushes come in both male and female plants so make sure you buy both. Plant in a group of three to five to ensure robust berry production.

VIBURNUM (Viburnum spp.) is a large genus with both native and non-native species. Native viburnums include Arrowwood (V. dentata), American Cranberry (V. trilobum), Black Haw (V. prunifolium) and Maple Leaf (V. acerfolium). They are generally easy to care for and drought tolerant once established. Size varies according to the species, ranging from 3’ to 12' tall and wide. Their glossy green leaves and fragrant flowers, which appear in mid to late spring, make them a standout in the garden. Birds love the berries, and the shrubs attract a variety of beneficial insects. Take care because several species of viburnums have become invasive in North America, species such as Linden Viburnum (V. dilatatum), European Cranberrybush (V. opulous) and Wayfaringtree (V. lantana).

These are only five of the many native shrubs to choose from when creating your plant palate. Make a list of what you want: wildlife benefits, fruit, fall color, ease of care. Take that list to your favorite nursery or online garden store and start shopping. After the gray days of winter, isn’t plant shopping high on our spring to-do list?

NATIVE SHRUBS: CREATING LIVING LANDSCAPES FOR BIRDS, BEES, BUTTERFLIES, AND OTHER BENEFICIALS: Ohio State University Extension

 S Vradenburg

As with all garden products, read the potting mix label for valuable information about the ingredients. The mix on the left is organic and contains softwood bark (a plus). However, the mix is variable state to state and may not have consistent quality. The mix on the right contains a fungicide to prevent damping off and other fungal diseases, which necessitates washing hands after handling.

photos by E Barth-Elias and K Edgington

Anticipation builds as the first nursery trip of the season approaches. We’ve read a host of “what’s new” articles and made lists of plants we can’t live without.  As we load our cart with expensive plants this spring, that bargain bag of potting soil is a temptation. Not so fast! Potting soil is one of the more important purchases we’ll make on our shopping spree. Heavy, poorly-draining potting mixes are the major culprit in seedling and container failures. 

Potting mix, or soilless mix, is a combination of materials specially made for the needs of container plants. Garden soils won’t do—they hold too much water, lack sufficient pore space, and can harbor pests and diseases. The best potting mixes contain a number of non-soil ingredients that retain moisture, yet have the pore space and drainage capability that provide the oxygen roots need. Here’s a look at the most common potting mix ingredients. 

• Peat moss is a major ingredient of most potting mixes. Peat is naturally sterile and suppresses fungi, so is helpful for seed starting and container growing. It holds water, however, and potting mixes with too high a proportion of peat will not drain adequately. Sphagnum moss bogs in Canada provide most of the peat sold in the US. Because the bogs grow at one-sixteenth of an inch per year it will take centuries to renew them from current mining. Peat bogs store a third of the world’s soil carbon, and there are significant climate change issues when that carbon enters the above-ground ecosystem. For these reasons many soil companies and gardeners are replacing peat in their soil mixes with products less environmentally challenging, such as coir (coconut fiber).
• Vermiculite (heated mica chips) is used in potting mixes to increase water retention and hold on to nutrients (fertilizers), keeping them available to plants for a longer period.
• Perlite (white volcanic rock) is porous and lightweight, improves drainage, and provides air space in the planting medium.
• Sand is sometimes used in mixes that require rapid drainage. While sand drains quickly, it does not hold onto nutrients and is usually used in specialty mixes, such as cacti and succulent mix.
• Ground pine bark and other softwood bark is an ingredient in some of the better potting mixes. It adds drainage and helps suppress disease. Many top-end nurseries use a potting mix that incorporates ground pine bark for their own plant production needs. Bark dries more quickly than peat, which is not a problem in situations where plants will be consistently watered.
• Compost may be an ingredient of specialty potting mixes. While it can offer the slow release of micronutrients and nutrients, its quality can vary, and it can be expensive to create. Compost that hasn't fully decomposed can contain ammonia and deprive potting soil of nitrogen. Commercial mixes do not usually contain compost.
• Lime or other additives adjust the mix pH.
• A fertilizer starter charge feeds the seedlings or plants for a very short time, usually just a few waterings. Some mixes contain slow-release fertilizer pellets, which feed plants over several months. Plants need varying amounts of fertilizer.  The gardener should decide whether the convenience of the slow-release fertilizer offsets the loss of control over fertilization. 
• Wetting agents lower the surface tension of the mix particles, allowing ingredients, like peat, that resist absorbing water to become moistened. (Moisten and stir dry potting mixes before using to produce a consistently moist mix.)
• Polymer crystals or gels, which expand as they store water, are added to some soilless mixes. This is a “buyer be aware” product—many plants prefer to dry out between waterings, and having these polymers in pot mixes during wet seasons can lead to root rot.

So how do you choose a good quality potting mix? Look for one that is lightweight and fluffy, and contains the above ingredients. If possible, buy more than one type of potting mix and compare the results. Be aware that different kinds of plants need different mixes: seed starting requires a fine mix, succulents and cacti require mixes with excellent drainage, acid-loving plants are particular about pH, and so forth. Many gardeners enjoy making their own potting mix. HERE are some recipes for homemade soilless mixes. THESE might also fit the bill. 

Note: Some of the better potting mix producers sell their mix in a compressed bale form, which is less expensive and takes less storage space. Bale mixes need to be hydrated before using.

Discussions about potting mixes may not be as riveting as new flowers or plant features. Yet a good gardener pays attention to this basic container ingredient, and begins any planting project with a quality mix. So, bypass that bargain bag of potting soil and go straight to the higher quality one, the true bargain when you factor in the success of your expensive, new plants.

K Edgington

April Checklist

• Add organic matter, such as compost or manure, to your vegetable beds.
• Plant cool-season vegetables like Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kale, and broccoli outdoors and summer vegetables indoors. (Six weeks before the last frost.)
• Plant, prune, and fertilize roses. SPRING ROSE CARE: Blooming Backyard
• Divide perennials for more blooms this summer.
• Plant trees and shrubs now to establish them before the summer heat and save on watering.
• Plant pansies.

J Gramlich