A simply brilliant lineup of wines |
Chapoutier's prestigious Selection Parcellaires wines - single block selection - are the cream of the crop.
Today we feature an unbelievable array of the recently arrived 2020 Rhones. We have whites and reds and numerous wines with 100 Point scores.
Jeb Dunnuck says of the 2020 reds...
Looking at the 2020 vintage, this was another hot, sunny year, yet the wines show more elegance and finesse compared to the 2019s, with slightly less density, yet still unquestionably coming from a sunny year.
The fall and winter of 2019 saw plenty of rain, which helped replenish water reserves, but the spring of 2020 was mild and dry, kicking off an early bud break and a healthy crop set. This was followed by another dry, sunny summer that saw harvest kick off early in September for most (even earlier for some) with solid yields and clean, healthy fruit.
My guess is that the vines saw more stress in 2020 and shut down for more extended periods, hence slightly lower alcohols and lower pHs. In general, when the vines shut down due to extreme weather, the tannin maturity can suffer, yet I found most 2020s to have beautifully ripe, polished tannins. The wines show more red and blue fruits, terrific purity and precision, and clean, classic aromatics. Where 2019 is more in the style of 2015 and 2009, the 2020s have a seamlessness and suppleness that brings to mind 2018 and 2016.
The Rise of the White
Not enough can be said about the quality of the white wines coming from the South of France today. While a tasting of Southern Rhône whites a decade ago would have yielded many overripe, uninteresting wines, that’s not anywhere close to the case today, and almost every estate is producing a balanced, lively white that merits attention. The top whites from the Southern Rhône are based largely on Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Clairette.... Most Southern Rhône whites drink nicely right out of the gate and show forward, pure, fruit-driven profiles in their youth and two to five years after the vintage. The top wines, however, can evolve for over a decade (and sometimes decades), developing more honeyed, mineral, and nutty characters while still being fresh and vibrant. These wines truly shine on the dinner table.
We also have a selection of back vintages. These also have huge reviews.
This is a rare opportunity for lovers of Rhone wines to stock their cellars with some of the highest rated releases.
| |
Chapoutier's Incredible Performance in 2020!
Of Jeb Dunnuck's 13 top Hermitage of the 2020 vintage no less than 7 were made by Chapoutier!
Click the image below to see the summary.
| |
Ermitage L'Oree blanc 2020
$445.00 a bottle
2 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
Also all Marsanne from the eastern side of Hermitage, raised in 15% new demi-muids, the 2020 Ermitage De L’Orée is full-bodied and concentrated, yet stays tight and reserved on the palate. Giving up beautiful white currant, crushed stone, spice, honeysuckle, and charcoal aromas and flavors, it’s a serious, age-worthy Hermitage that needs to be forgotten for 3-4 years, and it will evolve for over two decades. (Drink between 2025-2046). 98 Points
Matt Walls, Decanter
The nose is quite savoury, almond is the presiding aroma, with apple and quince in the background. It has the roundness of De l'Orée but without excessive opulence - this vintage is a little straighter than some. Well-balanced, with a more clearly visible mineral line than a classic vintage of this cuvée, which can be veiled by intense richness when young. Fresh, balanced, more thirst-quenching than a typical De l'Orée, its propensity to opulence slightly tempered. I think this works particularly well this year. (Drink between 2023-2045). 98 Points
| |
Ermitage Le Pavillon rouge 2020
$665.00 a bottle
6 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2020 Ermitage Le Pavillon is pure gold, and Hermitage doesn't get any better. Incredible aromatics of cassis, graphite, burning embers, and crushed stone all emerge from this beauty. Stunningly proportioned and incredibly pure, it's full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, but as with all great vintages of this cuvée, it's going to demand bottle age. While Les Greffieux and Le Méal bring much more opulence, this is the powerhouse, long-distance candidate in the lineup. It's an incredible effort. Give bottles upwards of a decade in the cellar, and it should evolve effortlessly over the following 30-40 years. (Drink between 2032-2062). 100 Points
Matt Walls, Decanter
This has that tell-tale touch of soy to the plum and blackcurrant fruit so reminiscent of this cuvée. Fluid and juicy on the palate, this has great intensity and salinity without feeling heavy or overripe. Plenty of sweet, ripe tannin and balanced acidity. Only medium-bodied, there's a touch of pepperiness on the finish, great freshness, harmony and balance. Sometimes a wine seems a bit too easy, a bit too effortless, and it can lull you into a sense that it lacks seriousness; this wine tries to do that, but I'm not inclined to underestimate it. (Drink between 2030-2052). 99 Points
| |
Ermitage Les Greffieux rouge 2020
$299.00 a bottle
8 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
More game, bacon fat, truffly earth, and both red and black fruits emerge from the 2020 Ermitage Les Greffieux, another deep, rich, incredibly concentrated wine from this estate. Coming from the more sedimentary soils at the base of Hermitage, destemmed and aged in 20% new oak, this full-bodied, monster of a wine has sweet, velvety tannins, a huge mid-palate, and a gorgeous finish. This is up there with the finest vintages of this cuvée I've tasted. Give bottles 5-7 years, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 20-25 years. (Drink between 2028-2054). 98+ Points
Josh Raynolds, Vinous
Opaque magenta. Displays an array of fresh red and dark fruit, floral and spice qualities on the intensely perfumed nose, along with building mineral and succulent herb notes. Vibrant and silky in texture, offering profoundly concentrated blackberry, boysenberry, cherry and violet pastille flavors enlivened by intense mineral and cracked pepper nuances. Shows superb delineation and emphatic mineral thrust on the youthfully tannic finish, which strongly repeats the floral and red fruit notes. If you are fortunate enough to have any of the 2008 versions of this bottling, then know that it is simply gorgeous right now, with loads of savory character, especially tobacco and smoked meat qualities. 96-98 Points
| |
St Joseph Les Clos 2020
$275.00 a bottle
6 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
It's always fun to taste the Les Granits next to the Le Clos, as the wines are dramatically different. The 2020 Saint Joseph Le Clos comes from a higher elevation, more east-facing site, and the alcohol is always a touch lower here, checking in at 13.6%, with the Les Granits being 14.1%. Closed and tight aromatically, it slowly offers up pure cassis, mulberry, and scorched earth-like aromatics, and I always find a Hermitage-like regalness in this wine. Full-bodied, pure, utterly seamless, concentrated, and with a great finish, this is as classy and refined as Saint Joseph gets. Hide bottles for 4-5 years if you can and enjoy over the following two decades. It's one of the greatest Saint Josephs out there. (Drink between 2027-2047). 98+ Points
Josh Raynolds, Vinous
Dark ruby. Displays expansive cherry liqueur, cassis and candied violet qualities on the intensely perfumed Glass-staining ruby. Potent kirsch, blackcurrant, olive and licorice qualities on the highly perfumed, spice- and mineral-accented nose. Stains the palate with alluringly sweet black and blue fruit liqueur, spicecake and violet pastille flavors that are underscored by a vein of smoky minerality. Shows outstanding finesse for its power and structure and finishes very long and smoky with building tannins adding framework and closing grip.
94-96 Points
| |
St Joseph Les Granits rouge 2020
$134.00 a bottle
12 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2020 Saint Joseph Les Granits brings another level of richness and depth, with a darker, almost cooler edge to its black fruits, scorched earth, and graphite, with an Hermitage-like leather note. Full-bodied on the palate, it builds beautifully with air and has sweet tannins, a stacked mid-palate, no hard edges, and a great, great finish. I finished my note with a few expletives that I can’t post here, but suffice to say, I think this is an utterly magical Saint Joseph. It offers pleasure even today yet will have at least two decades of prime drinking. As always, this comes from the lieu-dit Saint Joseph, was destemmed, and the aging spanned 18 months in 20% new demi-muids and barrels. (Drink between 2022-2042). 97 Points
| |
Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers 2020
$115.00 a bottle
12 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2020 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers is young and unevolved, yet I still love it. Full-bodied aromas and flavors of blueberries, raspberries, violets, and some rocky mineral notes define this structured yet incredibly pure Crozes Hermitage. As with the 2019, it has more than a passing resemblance to a top Hermitage. 94-96 Points
Josh Raynolds, Vinous
Inky violet. A wild, smoke- and spice-accented bouquet evokes kirsch, cassis, smoked meat, olive and succulent herbs, with mineral and floral notes emerging as the wine opens up. Firm, sharply etched black and blue fruit flavors slowly unfold with air and pick up hints of candied violet, espresso and black pepper. Finishes impressively long and precise, with gripping tannins and repeating game and mineral notes. 25% new oak. 94-96 Points
| |
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Barbe Rac 2020
$176.95 a bottle
12 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
One of the gems in the vintage is the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Barbe Rac, a 100% Grenache that was destemmed and brought up all in concrete tanks. Darker berries, ground pepper, graphite, and savory garrigue are just some of its nuances, and this beauty is full-bodied, has a layered, seamless mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and an awesome finish. It's a brilliant bottle of wine that readers will love. It deserves 3-4 years of bottle age and will shine over the following two decades. Bravo. (Drink between 2025-2046).
98+ Points
Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous
Bold and powerful, Chapoutier's 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Barbe-Rac comes in at 15.5% alcohol. The 2020 Barbe-Rac showcases enticing aromas of raspberry liqueur, strawberry jam, very ripe red and black cherry, mint, licorice and cardamon. Full-bodied and expressive, it is wrapped in an intricate web of velvety tannins and finishes exceptionally long. (Drink between 2024-2045). 95 Points
| |
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Croix de Bois 2020
$165.00 a bottle
18 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
More framboise, strawberries, dried herbs, and savory, loamy earth-like notes emerge from the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Croix De Bois, another 100% Grenache release from Chapoutier that's brought up all in concrete tanks. Medium to full-bodied, pure, and balanced, it epitomizes the charming, rounded, already accessible style of the vintage perfectly. Give it just a few years and enjoy over the following 15+. (Drink between 2024-2040). 97 Points
| |
Collioure Chrysopee rouge 2020
$96.00 a bottle
12 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
One of my favorite wines from this incredibly beautiful appellation, the 2020 Collioure Chrysopée is 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre, always from the same parcel, that’s brought up 80% in concrete tanks and 20% in demi-muids. Offering lots of red and blue fruits as well as spice, exotic flowers, and some flinty mineral notes, this beauty is medium to full-bodied, has ripe tannins, and a seamless, incredibly elegant profile. It should drink well right out of the gate, and while I don’t think Collioure are particularly age-worthy, I see no reason this shouldn’t easily have 7-8 years, if not a decade of longevity. 94-96 Points
| |
Cotes du Roussillon Villages Rouge Visitare Interiorae Terrae 2020
$120.00 a bottle
12 bottles available
Sorry, not tasting note
| |
Ermitage L'Ermite 2019
$1129.00 a bottle
2 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2019 Ermitage L’Ermite Blanc comes all from the l'Hermite lieu-dit located up above the Le Méal and around the Chapelle, which is a mix of granite and limestone soils. This cuvée sees a touch more new oak and is brought up 90% in 25% new demi-muids and 10% in stainless steel tanks. It's a more chiseled, backward (which is usual) wine that has intense white currants and stone fruits as well as brilliant honeysuckle, licorice, and celery seed nuances, with a liqueur of rocks-like minerality. With flawless balance, full-bodied richness, and a powerful, concentrated, structured style on the palate, hide bottles for 8-10 years, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 30 years. (Drink between 2028-2060). 100 Points
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
Since I reviewed the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc last year (98+), I had some doubts about spending the time to re-review it. But one taste had me transfixed. Hints of crushed stone and subtle oak appear on the nose, backed by waves of honeyed pear and pineapple, plus enough invigorating citrus to provide a sense of freshness. Full-bodied and rich without being heavy, this has come into its own, being incredibly long, balanced and ethereal on the finish. Amazing stuff! 2022-2040. 100 Points
| |
Ermitage Le Meal blanc 2019
$460.00 a bottle
5 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The richest and most fruit loaded of the trio is the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer terroir. This killer Hermitage Blanc has a vivid gold hue as well as a crazy good nose of quince, honeyed currants, acacia flowers, spice, and orange marmalade. It doesn't have the minerality of the L'Ermite (and to a lesser extent, the De l’Orée) yet has a more opulent, fat, unctuous style that's still flawlessly balanced and remarkably pure. This is another magical Hermitage from Chapoutier that does everything right. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved with air. It's certainly the more early drinking of these three single vineyard releases, yet it still deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 30 years or more. (Drink between 2022-2054). 100 Points
James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
This covers a broad swath, with waves of warm humus, roasted alder and dark tobacco playing an equal part with the layers of steeped black currant and blackberry fruit. The finish features bay leaf, leather and warm stone accents, with a rumble of tannins buried in the background. A meal in and of itself. Best from 2025 through 2040. 97 Points
| |
Ermitage L'Oree blanc 2019
$485.00 a bottle
2 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
Moving to the three single vineyard Hermitage Blancs, these are all perfect wines yet offer distinct characters. The 2019 Ermitage De L’Orée comes from more limestone soils in the Les Murets lieu-dit, on the eastern side of the appellation and was brought up in 15% new demi-muids. It reveals a vivid gold hue to go with gorgeous honeyed peach, white currants, quince, crushed stone, and white flower-like aromas and flavors. This full-bodied white has terrific concentration, a rich, layered mouthfeel, beautiful acidity, and a finish that just won't quit. Offering more fat and opulence than the L'Ermite and more minerality than the Le Meal, this pinnacle Hermitage Blanc needs a year or three of bottle age, then should drink nicely for 5-7 years, at which point it's best forgotten in the cellar for another decade. It should last for 20-30 years. (Drink between 2020-2050).
100 Points
James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
This is ablaze with mirabelle plum, white peach, apricot and quince notes that pour through, racing along atop notes of orange blossom, honeysuckle and quinine. The long finish drips with fruit, while also rippling with minerally driven tension. A late echo of salted butter adds the final touch. Best from 2024 through 2040.
98 Points
| |
Collioure Chrysopee blanc 2019
$98.50 a bottle
12 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
Sugared mint, citrus blossom, crushed rocks, hints of lavender, and lime all emerge from the 2016 Collioure Chrysopée Blanc, which is a blend of 90% Grenache Gris and 10% Grenache Blanc brought up in tank. It’s concentrated, medium to full-bodied, and textured, yet also straight up seamless, silky, and long. I struggle to think of a better white I’ve tasted from the region. This fabulous white can be drunk over the coming 2-3 years or cellared for a decade or more. (Drink between 2018-2028). 96 Points
| |
Ermitage Le Pavillon rouge 2019
$699.00 a bottle
8 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The star of the show as well as one of the wines of this great vintage, the 2019 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes all from broken granite soils of the Bessards lieu-dit and was all destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and brought up in just 15% new French oak, with a tiny amount in a small foudre as well. The level of new oak continues to plummet at this estate, which around a decade ago or more was utilizing 100% new barrels. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it’s a perfect example of the Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove saying and has incredible opulence paired with precision and finesse. Giving up both blue and black fruits as well as powdered stone, violets, scorched earth, and subtle smoke, this is pure Hermitage magic and Syrah doesn’t get any better. It needs at least 7-8 years (a decade would be better) of bottle age and will be a 50-year wine. (Drink between 2030-2069). 100 Points
| |
Cote-Rotie Neve 2019
$355.00 a bottle
3 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2019 Côte Rotie Nève isn't far off the 2018 in style and might even be a bigger, richer wine. Black raspberries, candied violets, flowers, and a kiss of classy oak all emerge from the glass, and it's medium to full-bodied, beautifully balanced, and elegant. This floral, mineral-laced, structured Côte Rôtie is going to need 2-4 years of bottle age and will drink brilliantly for 20 years or more. (Drink between 2022-2044). 95-97+ Points
| |
St Joseph Les Clos 2019
$259.00 a bottle
8 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2019 Saint Joseph Le Clos comes from higher elevation granite soils and is just about always in the running for the Saint Joseph of the vintage. Reminding me of the Vieilles Vignes cuvée from the Gonon brothers, this dense purple-hued effort offers incredible blackberry and smoked currant-like fruits as well as notes of violets, crushed stone, incense, and leather. It's a rich, full-bodied, incredibly impressive red that's going to take 4-5 years to shed some baby fat and keep for two decades. (Drink between 2024-2045). 96-98 Points
| |
St Joseph Les Granits rouge 2019
$145.00 a bottle
3 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2019 Saint Joseph Les Granits is another rich, mouth-filling, structured wine from the team at Chapoutier that will benefit from bottle age. Black cherries, truffle, subtle smoke, and ground herbs all emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with building tannins and a great finish. Hide bottles for 4-5 years and enjoy over the following 15. (Drink between 2026-2042). 95+ Points
| |
Collioure Chrysopee rouge 2019
$102.50 a bottle
17 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
All about finesse and elegance (which is what this appellation tends to deliver), the 2019 Collioure Chrysopée is 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre that spent 14 months in 80% concrete tanks and 20% in demi-muids. Its medium ruby/purple color is followed by stunning notes of blackberries, black raspberries, iodine, wildflowers, and bouquet garni. I love its complexity on the nose, and this medium to full-bodied 2019 has remarkable purity of fruit, silky tannins, and a great finish. As always with this cuvée, it’s a singular wine that I’d be thrilled to have in the cellar. Drink bottles any time over the coming 7-8 years. (Drink between 2022-2030). 94 Points
| |
Cotes du Roussillon Villages Rouge Visitare Interiorae Terrae 2019
$130.00 a bottle
12 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
Violets, spice, candied orange, and both red and blue fruits emerge from the 2019 Côtes Du Roussillon Villages Latour De France Visitare Interiore Terrae (VIT), another rich, full-bodied, yet incredibly elegant vintage for this cuvée. The Syrah component is showing on the nose, but it has plenty of Grenache sexiness on the palate. Unquestionably in the same ballpark as the 2018, this is a gorgeous wine in the making. 94-96+ Points
| |
Cotes du Roussillon Villages Rouge Rectificando Invenies 2019
$197.00 a bottle
6 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
Even better, the 2019 Côtes Du Roussillon Villages Lesquerde Rectificando Invenies (RI) is all Syrah sourced from decomposed granite soils. It was also destemmed and aged all in demi-muids. Beautifully done, it reveals medium to full-bodied aromas and flavors of blue fruits, crushed violets, crushed stone, and ground pepper. With a Hermitage-like character in its tannins, it’s beautifully balanced, with good acidity and a great finish. It offers plenty of pleasure today yet will benefit from a year or three of bottle age and drink well for over a decade. (Drink between 2023-2036). 96+ Points
| |
An amazing earlier vintage white... | |
Ermitage L'Oree blanc 2018
$460.00 a bottle
2 bottles available
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
Classy hints of pencil shavings accent the pear, nectarine and melon fruit in the full-bodied, voluptuous 2018 Ermitage de l'Orée. Despite the wine's ample richness and weight, it's surprisingly fresh and zesty, with hints of citrus zest and brine lingering on the finish. Drink 2020-2040. 96-98 Points
James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
This is creamy-edged, but with a racy spine, brightness and energy, showing floral lift amid a mix of white peach, white nectarine and mango flavors. The long finish is threaded with chamomile and verbena notes. Drink now through 2035. 96 Points
| |
And some spectacular earlier vintage reds... | |
Ermitage Le Pavillon rouge 2018
$660.00 a bottle
3 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2018 Ermitage Le Pavillon is just as good yet has a more liquid rock-like character that needs to be tasted to be believed. Revealing an inky purple/blue color as well as incredible notes of blueberries, cassis, crushed rock, liquid violets, and new leather, this off-the-charts barrel sample has massive richness and depth, building tannins, and a finish that won't quit. It’s not for those looking for instant gratification but is a legendary Hermitage in the making. 97-100 Points
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
The 2018 Ermitage le Pavillon is a plush, full-bodied beauty that combines fruity notes of blueberries with savory notes of black olives and marries them together with rich, earthy notes. Almost creamy across the mid-palate, it finishes with soft waves of velvety tannins. I expect this will firm up a bit prior to bottling, then drink well for two decades. Drink 2022-2040. 96-98 Points
| |
Cotes du Roussillon Villages Rouge Visitare Interiorae Terrae 2017
$118.50 a bottle
14 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
Deeply colored, with beautiful currants, chocolate, dried earth, and ground herbs, the 2017 Côtes Du Roussillon Villages Latour De France Visitare Interiore Terrae is full-bodied and has a rounded, sexy, opulent texture, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It’s a much more opulent, Southern Rhône styled effort compared to the more Syrah-dominated RI release. While falling outside the focus of this Northern Rhône report, I taste these wines every year during my visit at Chapoutier. Looking first at the 2018s, this was a cooler, wetter, and later year, and the wines show terrific purity and freshness with more medium-bodied to medium to full-bodied profiles. The 2017s come from a hot, dry year and are bigger, richer efforts. (Drink between 2020-2030). 96 Points
| |
Cotes du Roussillon Villages Rouge Rectificando Invenies 2017
$165.50 a bottle
9 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck
Coming from higher elevation granite soils, the 2017 Côtes Du Roussillon Villages Lesquerdes Rectificando Invenies is stunning in every way. Crème de cassis, graphite, tobacco, and ground pepper notes as well as a stunning sense of elegance emerge from this full-bodied, pure, beautifully textured, thrilling Syrah. This cuvée has been at the top of the heap from the Roussillon in just about every vintage since its debut, and the 2017 is no exception. While falling outside the focus of this Northern Rhône report, I taste these wines every year during my visit at Chapoutier. Looking first at the 2018s, this was a cooler, wetter, and later year, and the wines show terrific purity and freshness with more medium-bodied to medium to full-bodied profiles. The 2017s come from a hot, dry year and are bigger, richer efforts. (Drink between 2020-2035). 98 Points
| |
Grand Millesime Fine Wine | (03) 9326 5737 | 10/10 Cawley Rd, Yarraville, Vic 3013 | www.grandmillesime.com.au | | | | |