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Mexico 2023

March 16

La Peñita de Jaltemba

La Peñita de Jaltemba


Four years ago, we stumbled across the huge market in La Peñita. La Peñita is the northernmost city of a series of three linked communities located on Jaltemba Bay, a small bay 40 miles north of Bucerias. From north to south, the three towns are La Peñita, Guayabitos, and Los Ayala. So far this year, we have visited Guayabitos and Los Ayala, but not La Peñita. 


When we first visited La Peñita four years ago, the Thursday market was mainly the ‘low-brow trinkets’ variety of markets. It started in the central plaza and overflowed down several streets. It was big and colorful, but I don’t remember seeing any artisan vendors. Yesterday, when we went to the upscale Nuevo market, I noticed that some of the vendors had a schedule of the markets they attend, and La Peñita was included. This needs investigating, giving us a perfect excuse to head up to La Peñita.


All three communities seem old. The middle city of Guayabitos is the resort center of the three. The myriad of hotels and bungalows have a patina of wear and are in need of a facelift. Los Ayala is the tiniest and the quietest of the three. La Peñita is considered to be the commercial hub with banking services, a library, a post office, grocery stores, and veggie markets. Transportation-wise, all three communities are linked by inexpensive collectivos that constantly run back and forth.


Pineapples, mangos, and bananas are grown in the area. Fruit markets and fruit street vendors are abundant in La Peñita. For some reason, this is lacking in Bucerias. When we first visited La Peñita, we found it interesting that the beach was not set up for tourism. It was a ‘working beach’ with plenty of old fishing boats. The main feature of Jaltemba Bay is Coral Island sitting right in the middle of the bay. The Guayabitos beach has scores of water taxis jocking in position to take tourists out to the island. Not so at La Peñita’s beach. 


Anyway, today we took the Compostela bus to Guayabitos. It was 100 pesos ($5.30 US) each. We could either walk the two miles to La Peñita or hop in a collectivo. We chose to walk. The curvy street that links Guayabitos to La Peñita is in the more upscale end of town with the newest and most modern homes. The street abruptly ends at a narrow creek. A swinging footbridge crosses the river. And the bridge truly swings - wildly so. Of course, I loved it.

Guaybitos is getting a brand new bus depot. The depot isn't open yet, but the Burger King is.

These are the bus lines that will be serving the new bus depot.

Such an odd hotel.

Above and below: The houses on this connecting street from Guayabitos to La Peñita feature some of the newest real estate in the tri-town area.

The swinging foot bridge that officially connects Guayabitos and La Peñita.

Mexican homes are more humble. I love the wash hanging upstairs. I bet it dries quickly.

Above and below: According to the lady sweeping outside, this new corner bar just opened.

We found the street, about five blocks from downtown, where the market started. These vendors were the same vendors that were there four years ago - endless stalls of toys, T-shirts, used clothing, tennis shoes, plastic sandals, plastic kitchenware, cheap electronics, and the like. This went on for blocks until we reached the plaza, where the arts and crafts vendors were set up. We recognized several of the artisans, but these were only a fraction of the vendors that set up at La Cruz or Nuevo.

The La Peñita Market started off like a traditional Mexican market with housewares, plasticware, used clothing, etc.

Once we reached the central plaza, we found the artisan vendors.

Markets that have arts and crafts have to have live music performers.

Like the La Cruz Market, I love the art.

La Peñita is an agricultural center.

These giant trees in the plaza provide much-needed shade.

We had to check out the beach to see if that had changed. To our surprise, the beach was mostly deserted. Only a small handful of boats were parked on the sand. The rest of the beach was nicely cleaned up but totally deserted. I think the problem is two-fold: The sand is a dirtyish dark brown, not the more appealing golden or white sand. Also, the strip of sand is far narrower than most Riviera Nayarit beaches. Still, I wonder why the town hasn’t developed the beach.

Apparently, this is what is left of the fishing fleet in La Peñita.

Coral Island.

Downtown La Peñita looks ancient. The buildings are weathered, yet the town seems to be hustling and bustling. The main downtown street, La Avenida, connects highway 200 with the beachfront. It is a wide corridor with a palm tree-lined neutral ground separating the two directions of traffic. We found a quiet restaurant for dinner. I got a burrito, and Wanda picked enchiladas. It was all yummy, gave us far too much food, and was inexpensive.

Downtown La Peñita along La Avenida.

The downtown buildings are weathered and worn.

Even the street musicians are weathered.

The restaurant we stopped at - La Güero Linda.

A music duo stopped by the restaurant to put on a little show. I love the prominent bass guitar.

Rather than return to Guayabitos to take the Compostela bus back to Bucerias, we found the Pacifico bus station in downtown La Peñita and rode back in style in a greyhound-like bus. It was pricier at 157 pesos each ($8.35 US) but worth it.

Dave and Wanda

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