Our new campground, Oyster Point National Campground, is back on the Mountain-to-Sea Trail. This section of the trail rejoins the Outer Banks islands just south of our campground.

It is a good practice to set goals. My goal to ride the Bayview-to-Aurora ferry across the Pamlico River was realized. This morning, on our move from Goose Creek State Park to Oyster Point National Campground, we had to cross a 5-mile stretch of the Pamlico River and then another 2-mile stretch of the Nuese River. Sure, we could have driven over to Washington and driven south on major highways, but we would have missed out on all the back roads and two free ferries.

On the Bayview-to-Aurora ferry, a very talkative guy interested in our Wisconsin license plates, lassoed me into his orbit. He pointed out the giant factory across the river at Aurora and explained that it is the largest phosphate mine and chemical plant in the world. It might be ugly, but it surely was an imposing sight.

The open pit mine is miles across. The mechanical scoops and trucks used in the mine are as big as houses. He emphasized that everyone in Beaufort County works at the plant. He admitted that the Nutrien Company fudges a lot when it comes to the environment. They have a small reclamation area to show how they will put the environment back together once the mine plays out, but there are huge sections of used-up mine that just sits. But, he says, that is the price you pay for jobs.

He also talked about his hunting exploits. Deer and bear are his game of choice. The deer may be puny in North Carolina compared to Wisconsin, but he claims that Beaufort County is home of the largest black bear in the country. 850 pounds is not unheard of.

The Bayview-to-Aurora ferry coming to dock.

Saturn (our van) and V-Jer (our camper) fit nicely on board the free ferry.

The Nutrien Aurora Phosphate open-pit mine and chemical plant. Phosphate is an ingredient in fertilizer and animal feed. They also make ‘food-grade acids’. When I asked the guy telling me all this, what are ‘food-grade acids’, he said that products like Coca-Cola use it. I guess that’s why Coke is such a good rust remover.

Landing at Aurora.

The Minnesott ferry on the Nuese River was the next crossing. We met another guy interested in our Wisconsin license plates while waiting in line for the ferry. With an ‘I voted’ sticker on his hat, he told us that he was a union organizer and helped out with a strike up in Neenah, Wisconsin. He exclaimed, “Them boys were rowdy, but they were good boys and hung together.” He also noted that whenever he sees a man-hole cover in a street, he checks to see if it was made in Neenah at the Neenah Foundry.

The Minnesott ferry.

We slowly drove across the peninsula pinched between the Pamlico and Nuese Rivers. Villages like Aurora, Grantsboro, Harlowe, and Mill Creek dotted the countryside. Although nothing stood out, it was all just a wonderful slow landscape with waterways, farms, and modest homes.

We had a heck of a time finding Oyster Point Campground. Google Maps pointed down a narrow rough gravel road lacking any kind of signage. That made me nervous, especially with our camper in tow. My fear is stumbling down some narrow pathway with no way to turn around if it turns out to be the wrong road. Finally, we took a chance. After a mile, the dirt road opened up to a tiny campground on the banks of the Newport River just before it spilled into the Bouge Sound formed by yet another section of the Outer Banks. Ah, the OBX! It felt like being home again.

Once set up, I spent a good hour studying the Gazetteer and plotting out the activities for the next few days. Cape Lookout is a must. The Swansboro Bicentennial Bike Trail is promising, as is the Cedar Point Tidewater Trail. Bouge Banks Island is the Outer Banks of this section of North Carolina. We should find plenty to do.

Oyster Point National Campground.

I saw this bad-boy on the way to the bathroom. Fortunately, the web was spun about 8 feet high, well above my head. I found one more such giant spider sitting in the middle of its web at the campground, and one spanning across the MTS Trail. Yowza, these guys are big. However, they munch insects. I saw one snacking on a large fly.

Glossary of terms used for newcomers: 1) V-Jer. The name of our camper. 2) Saturn. The name of our Van. 3) Duende. Our mischievous gremlin that breaks things. 4) Tata. The good gremlin that helps us fix Duende’s dirty work. 5) The Black Hole. This is what we call Walmart because every time we go in for just a couple of items, we come out spending way more than we figured. 6) QT. Quaint Town. 7) Little Buddy. This is what we call our Dyson cordless stick vacuum.

Dave and Wanda

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