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Feature Article:
Is Fall or Spring Clean Up Better For Landscape Gardens?
By Margy Pearl, Johnston County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer
Do you struggle each year with how much fall clean up to do? While I love seeing and promoting beneficial insects and birds, I sometimes think my winter gardens look more "messy" than interesting. Is there room for compromise?
Some fall cleanup is necessary to prevent the spread of disease and insect pest infestations. Plants you should cut back to discourage problems are bearded iris, bee balm (Monarda spp.), peony (Paeonia), and phlox (Phlox paniculata). Dead Hosta spp. leaves can harbor slugs and inhibit new spring growth. Any problematic plant material must be discarded, but dead, undiseased plants can be composted.
However, leaving healthy plant debris, especially around native perennials, shrubs and trees provides shelter from predators for beneficial insects, their pupae, caterpillars and eggs. Our native viceroy butterfly uses a rolled leaf as a winter home until spring! Be sure to keep debris and mulch about 4 inches away from the base of trees and shrubs to discourage "nibbling" from the mice or voles that might shelter there.
A main disadvantage of fall cleanup is removing the standing dead vegetation that traps leaves, even snow, and actually insulates the soil and crowns of perennials from the freeze/thaw cycles of winter weather. Some plants prone to this damage are types of garden mums (Chrysanthemum spp.), anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), and Montauk daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum).
Unfortunately, fall cleanup of plants such as black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia fulgida), coneflower (Echinacea spp.), Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum), Autumn Joy Sedum (Sedum spectabile Autumn Joy), Baptisia, and ornamental grasses can destroy important winter food and cover sources for birds and other wildlife. Many gardeners see beauty in the nourishing seed pods and seed heads of plants that add sound, movement, and interest to an otherwise dull winter landscape.
While you may wait until spring to clean up plants you do want to propagate, what do you do if others leave battalions of "volunteers"? I hate to waste the resource so I leave them for the birds well away from my gardens.
Many gardeners are unaware that when they trim and discard hollow stems, they are eliminating potential homes for many species of native bees. My patch of swamp sunflower (Helianthus angustifolius) that is gorgeous in the fall is totally unattractive after a few frosts. As with any hollow stems, I cut them about 8 inches long, bundle them into a plant tie and tie or tuck them into the crotch of a tree. Stems pushed into the ground as a natural bee house need to be left for 2 years. Never cut back hollow stemmed lantana more than 2-3 inches. Cutting too close to the ground allows in rain that will freeze and cause the roots to burst!
Wait for several frosts before cutting back any plant in the fall. This allows roots time to reclaim energy from the dying tops for spring re-growth. When you do trim, leave about two inches of stem above the soil to mark the location. For plants that emerge late, such as butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos), and balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus), you'll be less likely to dig into them accidentally.
Is there a better way to deal with the inevitable windfall of leaves that is often the bane of fall cleanup? Using a mulching mower, they can be incorporated into the lawn to protect and nourish the grass. Mulched leaves can be bagged and spread over landscape beds providing the same benefit. Place leaves, mulched or unmulched, in trash bags with holes in the top and bottom and leave them out of sight to decompose. By spring, you'll have bags of rich, free compost called leaf mold!
Fall or spring, there are ways to make clean up better for you, your plants and wildlife!
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Feature Plant:
Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Kaori Hime'
"Fragrant Princess" False Holly
A New "Choice Plant" Series Introduction
(Grown and recommended by Johnston County Nurserymen)
By Marshall Warren, Johnston County Horticulture Extension Agent
What an appropriately named plant - 'Kaori Hime'. Kaori is a Japanese girls' name meaning "fragrant" or "smells like a beautiful flower". Hime is the Japanese word for princess, lady of higher birth, beautiful female, or it may also indicate feminine or simply small. So, its' common name is "Fragrant Princess" False Holly.
Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Kaori Hime' is one of the new "Choice Plant" introductions from the JC Raulston Arboretum landscape trials grown in a collaborative effort by the local Johnston County Marketing Association nurseries.
Osmanthus 'Kaori Hime' - "Fragrant Princess" False Holly is a miniature version of the Osmanthus heterophyllus species with tiny evergreen leaves. It is slow-growing, reaching a height of 4' and 4' wide in 10 years. Over time it can get larger, but it can be clipped into a formal hedge, tightly pruned foundation plant, or left to grow naturally into an irregular upright shrub. Its relatively large, pure white flowers permeate the entire garden in late summer through fall with its sweet-smelling aroma. It's the perfect year-round interest plant. Oh, and did I mention it's deer resistant?
Be sure to ask for Osmanthus "Fragrant Princess" at your local garden centers.
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Quick Tip:
Cleaning & Sterilizing Pruners
By Deborah M. Crandall, Johnston County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Emeritus
After a heavy pruning job, your pruners should be soaked for at least 5 minutes (or as directed on the product label) in a warm soapy water to wash off the grime, and rinsed with clean water or allowed to air dry before use. A longer soaking period may be needed for pruning tool surfaces that are not smooth. Finish with a light application of mineral oil before you put your pruners away.
Pruning saws, shears and other pruning tools can spread disease organisms from one plant to another or from one part of a plant to another part of the same plant if not properly disinfected. Sterilizing your tools is no guarantee against plant disease, but it can have a significant impact on disease incidence and severity.
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Ask an Expert:
Soil Sampling, a Critical Step to Success
By Jeff Morton, Retired Horticulture Extension Agent
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The most important step that can be taken by a homeowner to improve plant establishment, optimize growth, and minimize pest problems is to take a soil test. Each year farmers here in Johnston County, who make up less than 2% of the population, submit over 14,000 soil samples to the NCDA Soil Lab for analysis because they know how vital it is to their success. Homeowners here in the county submit around 1,000 samples annually.
A soil test chemically extracts and measures the elements in the soil essential to the nutrition of your plants. It measures soil acidity and pH. It determines if lime is needed, the availability of key nutrients and soil fertility which is the potential of the soil to grow plants.
Homeowner soil tests historically show that many of the soils here in Johnston County are sandy with a low pH. Sixty-five percent of samples show a pH of 5.9 or less and generally would benefit from liming. Fifty-five percent of samples show a potassium index of less than 50 and would benefit from an application of potash.
A soil sample can be taken any time of the year, but late summer to early fall is the best time for most plants. This gives enough time for lime to be applied, if needed, and produce the desired soil reaction before planting in the dormant season or the next spring crop.
Pick up your soil sample box and forms at the Extension Office. Also there is no fee from the NCDA Soil Lab for samples submitted from April until Thanksgiving. There is a $4.00 fee for samples submitted after Thanksgiving until March 31.
The key to getting a good soil test report back is to submit a sample that accurately reflects the area and crop in question. Collect a slice or core of soil from 8-10 random locations across the lawn, bed or garden and mix them together in a plastic bucket. Take these samples 4 inches deep for lawns and 6-8 inches deep for plant beds. Use a trowel or soil tube, making sure they are made of steel - not galvanized metal. Also do not use brass or bronze tools. Place each sample in a soil box with an accompanying soil sheet filled out and submit through the Extension Office. Each sample will require about 0.5 lb. of soil (approximately 1 pint). Be sure to fill the soil sample box to the "fill line" indicated on the box.
Most soil samples submitted are routine or predictive in nature. Generally, the sandy textured soils common to Johnston County should be sampled every 2-3 years. However, if a problem develops during the growing season, be sure to send in a sample for analysis and send it as a "problem" soil test. A separate diagnostic soil sample information form must be used.
You will get your soil test report back via the internet if you provided an email address. The response time will vary according to the time of the year, but is usually 2-4 weeks. Don't file it away in a drawer! Take a look at it. The report gives a lot of information, much of which only means something to a soil scientist. BUT the report will make a liming recommendation if needed. It will also recommend a type or blend of fertilizer and rate depending on how much phosphorus and potassium was in the soil and the type of plant that was listed on the form.
The soil test will express the type of fertilizer needed as an analysis recommendation. For example, a 15-0-14 analysis (N-P-K) contains no phosphorus because the soil level of phosphorus was found to be adequate. An 8-0-24 analysis (N-P-K) indicates the soil potassium levels are low and the recommendation is for a fertilizer high in potash. You may have to go to a garden center or a fertilizer dealer who caters to farmers in order to find these blends of fertilizers. It is well worth the extra effort to obtain an analysis that more closely matches your soil and plant needs. Call the Extension Office and speak to an Agent or Master Gardener Volunteer if you need help understanding your report.
Sources:
NCDA & CS Bulletin - Understanding the Soil Test Report
NCDA & CS Bulletin - Essential Plant Nutrients
How to Take a Proper Soil Sample Video
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Home Landscaping:
What Johnston County Residents Want to Know?
By Vicki Shore, Johnston County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer
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There are some gardening dilemmas that affect all of Johnston County from Clayton to Princeton and Benson to Kenly. Here are a few of the questions the Master Gardeners are frequently asked.
1. Do I have moles or voles, and how do I get rid of them?
The easy way to distinguish moles versus voles is to think "m" for moles that are meat eaters (actually insects), and "v" for voles that are vegetarian. Moles tunnel in your yard as they search for grubs, the fat white grub worms (Japanese beetle larvae). Eliminating the grub worms or other food sources is one of the cultural methods of mole control. Trapping and chemical baits are other alternatives to control. There are two types of voles in the county, the pine vole and the meadow vole. Both have a strong resemblance to mice and the meadow vole is the larger of the two. Pine voles are more localized and stay underground; therefore, most of their damage is done below the soil line eating roots. The meadow vole will travel further damaging above ground even to the point of completely girdling a tree. Cultural methods of reducing voles are mowing and removing excess vegetation and mulch as well as landscape fabric. Chemical baits are also available. Resource:
2. How do I get rid of fire ants?
The red imported fire ant has increased steadily in our area due to their high reproductive rate and our mild winters. Two methods used in treating are mound treatment and broadcast treatment. If there are only a few mounds then treating them individually can work. This is done using a bait that will kill the queen. The broadcast method can be used once or twice per year over a larger area. There are also some products intended for use in the vegetable garden. As with any insecticide, it is important to read and follow the label instructions.
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3. Why is my Leyland Cypress turning brown?
Several diseases are becoming a problem with Leyland Cypress as it has been used more often in our landscapes as a screening plant. In most cases the plant starts to show a few dying branches and progresses until the entire tree is brown. One disease is Seiridium Canker in which sunken, dark patches appear on the bark often accompanied by a resin flow. This is a fungus that can spread from tree to tree. Currently there are no chemical controls to control this in the landscape. Similar to Seiridium is Botryosphaeria Canker and this disease does not extrude resin. Again, no chemical control is available. Cercospora Needle Blight and Phytophthora Root Rot are other problems of the Leyland Cypress. Maintaining healthy plants with adequate water, proper mulching and insect control are the best defense. In the event that is not enough, consider replacing with other screening plants.
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4. What is wrong with my tomatoes?
Two of the largest complaints we hear about tomatoes are rotten spots on the ends (blossom end rot) and wilt. Blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. Uneven watering and excess soil salts caused by over fertilization, particularly nitrogen, can cause this type of problem. To prevent blossom end rot, one should maintain even moisture and avoid high nitrogen fertilizer. Also soil testing is recommended as the pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8. There are several wilt diseases of tomatoes such as Fusarium, Verticillium, and other bacterial diseases. Once these are present not much can be done to save the plant. For future plantings, crop rotation is a must. For those without room to rotate, container planting for tomatoes is a good alternative. An excellent resource for learning about tomato wilt can be found at the website.
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Got Gardening Questions?
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Our Johnston County Extension Master Gardener Volunteers
(EMGV) can help with various horticulture questions.
or call (919) 989-5380 to speak with one of our
Master Gardener Volunteers
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GENERAL IDEAS
● Fall is for planting! Autumn is an ideal time to plant or transplant deciduous trees/shrubs and perennials. Fall is also a great time to till the soil and add organic material and lime. The bed will have plenty of time to "mellow" before next spring. Turning over the soil also exposes harmful insects such as grubs to predators and cold temperatures.
● Collect soil samples for testing. Test your lawn, flower beds and vegetable garden. Testing should be done every 2-3 years. The kits and analysis are FREE this month. Strong healthy plants start with proper soil pH and fertility.
● Clean up and throw away any diseased plant material. Do not put it in a compost pile. Leaving infected plant material on the plants or on the ground provides a source of inoculum for next year's infection.
● Improve your clay soil by loosening the soil and adding well-rotted compost in a ratio of one part compost to two parts soil. Mix compost in well, making a bed 8-12 inches deep.
● Use shredded leaves as mulch. Fallen leaves contain lots of nutrients, but they decompose slowly. Help the process along by shredding or mowing them, preferably with a bagger attachment.
● Compost your yard waste! As you cut back perennials in preparation for winter, return that bounty to your garden in the form of compost. Compost is nature's favorite fertilizer and soil conditioner. Recycle grass clippings, leaves, and non-diseased garden refuse.
● Wait to prune trees and shrubs. Pruning before dormancy may induce tender, new growth that will not have time to harden off before the first frost.
● Take cuttings of begonias, coleus, geraniums and impatiens to root and grow indoors during winter.
● Remove bagworms from evergreens to greatly minimize their population numbers for next year. The eggs for next year's caterpillars are in the bag.
● Trigger roses into dormancy by no longer deadheading spent flowers and allow rose hips to form.
● Purchase spring-flowering bulbs and store them in a cool place until chilly weather sets in and you can plant them. Daffodils, Spanish Bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanicus), and Snowflakes (Leucojum aestivum) are bulbs to consider. By contrast, tulips and Dutch hyacinths decline after their first season in Johnston County and are best treated as annuals.
● Store tender tubers, such as dahlia, caladium, gladiolus, geranium, and tuberous begonia, which may not overwinter in the garden. Lift roots, tubers, or corms about the time of our first killing frost, just after their foliage dries. Dig deep enough so that the roots will not be snapped apart when lifted from the soil. Leave soil around dahlia tubers, canna, and caladium roots. Store tubers inside in a dry, cool, frost-free place such as a basement to protect against rodents. Geraniums can be overwintered in pots, or bare root in paper bags until soil dries and falls away from plant. Shake soil off roots and tubers, and cut away dried stem. Discard any plant parts that show soft spots or disease. Place tubers and roots in old sawdust or peat moss in a flat box or plastic bag with holes for ventilation.
● Coddle Holiday Cactus - Leave your holiday cactus outdoors in a spot that gets a few hours of bright sun and no light after dark. Give it regular water and fertilizer. The combination of attentive care, bright daytime, and long, dark nights sets the stage for heavy flower bud production in early winter.
LAWN CARE
- Pamper newly seeded fescue lawns. Baby grass plants have very small, shallow roots. Keep them watered. Don't let falling leaves smother them. Use a leaf blower on low power or rake very gently so you don't uproot the tender young plants. If desired, Bermuda lawns may be over seeded with annual rye at a rate of 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft.
- Avoid cool season weeds by applying the appropriate pre-emergent herbicide to plant beds and turf areas that had cool season weeds last year.
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If you had Large Patch Disease in your warm season lawn, now is the time to apply fungicides. Large Patch begins to develop when soil temperatures decline to 70 degrees F in the fall, but the symptoms are not necessarily visible at this time.
Click on each type of grass for individual maintenance calendar:
FRUITS & VEGGIES
- Plant a cover crop in your vegetable garden. Legumes, such as clover and alfalfa, will enrich the soil by fixing nitrogen. Cover crops prevent erosion and can be turned over to decompose in the soil and provide needed organic matter.
- Plant a fruit tree or small fruit. The ideal time to plant is December.
- Keep pecans picked up. Weevil larva for next year's populations will crawl out of the nuts and overwinter in the soil if the nuts are not picked up.
- Build a cold frame to plant cool-weather vegetables for a longer harvest into early winter.
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Cool Connections:
Helpful Links from Johnston County Cooperative Extension
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Announcements:
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Click Picture for Video
Click on this link for details and order form |
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For more information visit:
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