Q uickly: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc without the "Ew, this tastes like Tropicana" trauma, at the lowest price we've offered!

I made a new rule for the Eno-Files last fall: No more Sauvignon Blanc features unless they're out of the ordinary. That means if it's from France it can't be peachy, if it's from California I don't want to smell honeydew, and if it's New Zealand (gasp!) nothing that tastes like orange juice. And yet here I am with a New Zealander as this week's feature, a throwback to the refreshing, aromatic style of Sauvignon Blanc that helped Kiwi wine take off years ago. Allow me to introduce the 2017 Havelock Sauvignon Blanc!

New Zealand's signature style of Sauvignon Blanc is young for the wine world, tracing back to Cloudy Bay's founding in 1985. Prior to that, minerally French Sancerre was the prestige Sauvignon, so Cloudy Bay's accessible, fresh grapefruit aromas and limeade acidity made the Kiwi style a restaurant phenomenon in the 90s. By the 2000s riper, mass-appeal Sauvignon Blanc was challenging Chardonnay as America's favorite white wine, but recently I've heard, "It just tastes like OJ" or, "It's kind of sweet now" on a weekly basis. Well, here you go: everything you loved about New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc... minus the sugar, minus the overripe tangerine flavors, minus the past 10 years!

The 2017 Havelock Sauvignon Blanc pours a clear, pale straw yellow hue. The nose is clean and detectable from across the room, with bright passionfruit, grapefruit, and gooseberry (I actually bought some gooseberries for comparison; they smell nice but I'd rather drink the wine than eat the fruit). On the palate the wine is dry and medium bodied, with zesty, mouthwatering acidity refreshing the flavors of lime, passionfruit, and a hint of basil through the long finish. Enjoy in the sunshine, or pair with takeout Thai, citrus-glazed chicken, or authentic ceviche! This wine is drinking beautifully now and is best consumed young; enjoy it all summer long and reload next year!