Brilliant Wines From Veyder Malberg
Veyder Malberg, in Austria's Wachau, can rightfully be called a passion project. Peter Veyder-Malberg opened his own named winery in 2008, after working in the wine business from California to Italy. His mission is to protect and resurrect the historic terraced vineyards of the Wachau.
"Unlike practically any other wine region, the Wachau is distinguished by its terraced vineyards with extremely old, dry stone walls. Not only do they represent the optical allure that the Wachau is so famous for, but they also are markedly responsible for the unique character of the Wachau´s wines."
Manual care of the terraces is highly intensive (requiring 5 -10 times more work than in vineyards which can accommodate vehicles). And this is why many of the old terraces are in danger of being abandoned - something that would ultimately change the landscape of the Wachau in the future.
So I made it my goal to acquire exposed terraces with mainly old vines and protect them from being cleared. Although this means pure handwork - no machines whatsoever - I am convinced that the qualities of the wines are so unique, so full of character and spectacular, that this work will be repaid many times over.
There have been miniscule amounts of his wine available in the past (his total production is around 1000 cases), but this is the first year that I could taste the wines and even buy a case of each wine. When all of us tasted the 4 wines presented to us there was a palpable excitement in the shop, an excitement that only appears when we taste truly great wines.
I hope by now you are intrigued. Now let me introduce the wines.
Veyder-Malberg Grüner Veltiner "Liebedich" 2017 11.5% alcohol
$39.99 Soul Wine Price $33.99
If I has only tasted this one wine, I would have been happy. It shows a fineness of texture that is unique amongst Austrian Grüners and I was immediately smitten. The fruit is pure and clean with flavors of green apple and a pleasant note of delicate fresh herbs. This is a great introduction to
V-M, but it is only the beginning.
This is the only wine made that is not entirely handmade, meaning a tractor is used in some of the vineyards this wine comes from. All other wines are strictly handmade, from the vineyard to the winery.
Veyder-Malberg Grüner Veltiner "Loibner" 2017 12. 5% Alcohol
$59.99 Soul Wine Price $50.99
As I said, I would have been happy tasting the "Liebdich". But tasting the Loibner took me to another level. Often, when tasting a lineup such as this, the wines simply get richer and more flamboyant. Here they seemed to get "quieter" but say a lot more. This wine shows even more pinpoint balance. It is more complex, but it is the kind of complexity that sneaks up, that reveals itself slowly. In the end I was beguiled.
Veyder-Malberg Grüner Veltliner "Hochrain" 2107 13% alcohol 
$69.99 Soul Wine Price $59.49
This wine fooled me. On first impression it showed a riper element, hints of melon and a touch of rielsing like peach. But as the wine stayed in my mouth a definite mineral/herbal crispness came in under the fruit bringing it back to "Grünerness". The flavors built and lingered, and I could have sat down and enjoyed the entire bottle for the rest of the day.
Veyder-Malberg Malberg Riesling "Bruck" 12% alcohol 
$79.99 Soul Wine Price $67.99
Just when I thought the tasting couldn't get any better, along came this glass of brilliance. It shimmered, it moved, it grooved, and it sang. I have tasted great riesling in my life and this ranks right up there. Actually, it stands out; it is so crystalline, so pure, the essence of risling rendered with a combination of delicacy and vibrancy that I just don't see very often.
There are two other wines available that we did not
get to taste. I include them because some of you may know them and, based on what I tasted, they might just be mind blowing.
Veyder-Malberg 2017 Riesling, Brandstatt
$130.00 Soul Wine Price $109.50
Veyder-Malberg 2017 Riesling, Weissenkirchner Buschenberg
$130.00 Soul Wine Price $109.50
I hope by now you can tell how I much liked the wines. In doing some research I came across a description from a company called The Source, which I thought described Veyder-Malberg very well.
"The problem with Peter's wines is that there is too much to think about when tasting them. They are not for everyone and you must be in-tune with wines that are not meant to be drunk so quickly. In other words, you've got to take the time to be able to read between the lines with these magical wines. They can be the most sublime and pure expression of any wine created on this planet."
So, while these wines may not be for everyone, they are wines that will speak to many. They are not weird and funky nor different for the sake of being different. They are the result of an in tune, meticulous individual. Yes, they are expensive, but they are not overpriced. I can't sell you a lot, but a bottle of each will improve your life.
Please respond to this email to order. The wines are in Seattle and will be in the shop next week.
