The Oldways Cheese Coalition is happy to present the Winter 2017 edition of our quarterly CheeseMatters newsletter.
     
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Some books, like some cheeses, get better with time. This is the case of Professor Heather Paxson’s “ The Life of Cheese .” Based on the author’s fieldwork research, the book tells the story of artisan cheese producers in the northeast of the United States. Perhaps one of the most important contributions this ethnography makes is to introduce the concept of post-Pasteurian attitudes of producers and consumers. Paxson writes: “a post-Pasteurian view emphasizes the potential cooperation among agencies of nature and culture, microbes and humans. … post-Pasteurian investments in quality accept some degree of variability in embracing the potential of a raw-milk cheese to express exceptional, distinctive flavors.”

It is this same ethos that forms the basis of the mission of the Oldways Cheese Coalition. Diversity in microbial, producer, or international communities is essential to the development of complex modern ecosystems and societies. Recognizing different actors and encouraging new understandings is central to our work. We base our efforts on fact-based peer reviewed science, and remain attentive to established techniques used by generations of cheesemakers. As a new U.S. administration is inaugurated, our guiding principle remains the careful balance between promoting of artisanal products and the protecting traditional cheesemaking practices. We will be here to ensure that artisanal cheeses and their cheesemakers thrive.

Professor Paxson is a member of our Academic Advisory Committee and recently, Scientific American published a review of her book.

Here is our challenge to you. Take the Oldways Cheese Coalition's 10-question quiz for the ultimate test of your knowledge of cheese – everything from types to origins, production methods, and use in traditional recipes.

Celebrate National Cheese Lover's Day on January 20, 2017 by flaunting your cheese knowledge, challenging your friends to take the quiz, and joining the fun on social media.

How do you find the perfect cheese for you? 

We asked Chicago's only cheese blogger, Erika Kubick, to help us. 

“There is no single one perfect cheese for you, there are simply a vast array of incredible cheeses, each uniquely ideal in their own way.

When I’m looking for my perfect cheese, I consider three things: the time of year, the mood I’m in, and what I plan to do with the cheese."  Read the rest of Erika's advice on the OCC blog.

Check out Erika Kubick 's  fantastic blog, Cheese Sex Death, and follow her on  Facebook , Twitter , and Instagram . Her gorgeous pictures will be great guides to find your next favorite cheese.

This time, in addition to bringing you a recipe, we bring you a unique pairing combination, from the newly released Composing the Cheese Plate book by Brian Keyser and Leigh Friend. This duo worked in Casellula in New York City and Brian is getting ready to open a new location of his unique wine-cheese bar in Pittsburgh , PA.   


Sometimes it’s OK to keep it simple. Passionfruit curd is fresh and tart like lemon curd, but with a unique tropical note. It is delicious with chèvre or any other fresh, rich cheese. Tangy and bright, this combination is a great way to wake up your palate at the beginning of your cheese course.

YIELD: 2 CUPS
PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES
COOK TIME: 20 MINUTES

5 ounces frozen passionfruit juice
1⁄4 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons butter, cold
Pinch of salt
1 1⁄2 teaspoons basil seeds

Fill a medium mixing bowl half full with ice, and place it in the freezer.
Pour 3 inches of water into a medium saucepan and bring it to a boil. Then reduce to a simmer.

In a medium heat-proof bowl, combine the juice, sugar, eggs, and egg yolks. Set the bowl over the simmering water. Cook, whisking constantly to avoid scrambling the eggs.

Continue cooking and whisking for 5 to 7 minutes. At this point the liquid should be slightly foamy. Continue whisking until the bubbles are few and the texture has thickened, about 3 more minutes. Be careful not to overcook the eggs; doing so will create an undesirable eggy taste and grainy texture.

Dip a spatula in the curd and lift it out.

Run your finger horizontally through the middle of the curd. If the curd holds its shape, it’s done. If it runs, keep cooking and whisking.

Once the curd is cooked, immediately transfer it to a blender, and blend on high for 2 minutes.

While the curd is blending, remove the bowl from the freezer, and fill it halfway with cold water.

Carefully add the butter and salt to the blender. Continue to blend on high for 20 seconds.

Place the blender container holding the curd in the ice bath. Stir in the basil seeds.
Once the curd is cool, pour it into an airtight container. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Chef’s notes: Frozen passionfruit juice can sometimes be found in the frozen-foods aisle at an ethnic grocer. Beware that some brands add sugar. If the brand you purchase contains added sugar, reduce the amount of sugar in this recipe to 2 tablespoons.

Make ahead. It will keep for up to 1 week.

Other cheeses to serve with this accompaniment: Bright, fresh cheeses like chèvre, farmer’s cheese, or mascarpone. Creative suggestions: Combine the recipe with 3 cups stiff whipped cream, and pour the mixture into a graham cracker crust.

Refrigerate for 2 hours, top with toasted coconut, and you have an easy, light pie.

Reprinted with permission from Running Press, a member of the Perseus Books Group.  

This organization based in France and led by Roland Barthelemy works to promote camaraderie in the cheese industry and recognize the contributions of men and women to the world of cheese.

The organization was funded in 1901 and has now over 5600 members around the world. Since 2012 the organization inaugurated a New World Chapter to recognize cheese experts working in Australia, Canada, Mexico, and the United States. Induction to the Guilde Internationale des Fromagers is based on merit and recommendation of peers in the industry.

Every year we partner with the Guilde to celebrate Raw Milk Cheese Appreciation Day. Mark your calendars; we will be again joining forces with this organization and many producers, retailers, and cheesemongers to bring your fun events and tastings on April 15th, 2017.