Sales of Poinsettias in the U.S. will top $250 million in the six weeks leading up to Christmas.  That's a lot of green spent on a plant most people toss in the trash after the holidays.  But then again, can you imagine Christmas without Poinsettias?    So, the goal, then, is to keep your Poinsettias healthy and happy for at least six weeks. Click HERE to learn just how to do that!

For you early planners, if you want the best looking yard in the block next year, now is the time to do your soil sampling.   Soil testing should be done every two to three years and it is very important to do so, particularly if you have been planting the same plants repeatedly in the same location within your garden.

The good news is . . . due to the very warm fall season, time still remains for you to take soil samples for both your lawn and garden areas.  Since the early to mid December ground temperature is still 40-45 degrees, you still have time to work into the soil any suggested changes you receive from your submitted soil sample(s), but you need to act soon. 

Have questions about soil sampling or need help taking a sample?  No problem!  Click HERE for a few suggested methods from OSU Extension for getting both the proper amounts and type of soil which is best for sampling.  If you sample and adjust for any nutrient deficiencies now, you will be glad you did come Spring!

A shelter from the wind and cold, a dry bed and lots of warm drinks with delicious food . . . sounds like a recipe for a long, cozy winter. Or could this just be for the birds? Well, it is for all creatures, but let's talk about the birds.

There is a lot bird watchers can do to attract and protect birds in their own back yard in the winter. Click HERE to learn how.

 

As temperatures drop and we prepare ourselves for spending more time indoors, there's one additional outdoor project that you should do before you head indoors for the winter - winterizing your garden tools.  Click  HEREto learn how to k eep your garden tools sharpened, polished and cleaned to help you get a jump start on your landscaping duties early next year.

                          {Southwest Injury}                                            {Sunscald}

Human skin is not the only organism susceptible to the sun!  Winter sun and late summer sun can also cause significant tree trunk damage.

SOUTHWEST INJURY:    In January and February in Oklahoma, the damage is done when temperatures are below freezing, but the sun warms a portion of the southwest side of the trunk. When the sun sets, the trunk rapidly refreezes and kills the living cells. The result is discolored bark, cracking, sunken spots or sloughing of the surface bark to reveal dead tissue.

SUNSCALD:    In July and August, Sunscald causes the same destruction.  If a tree is newly planted or in a severe drought, transpiration (the method by which trees cool themselves) can be slowed.  The southwest side of the tree gets the most sun and will be affected.  Usually, there is no immediate bark cracking but, after a year or two, a flat side of the trunk will develop and new bark growth will push in from the side of the wound, pushing the old bark off the trunk. Trees usually survive this kind of assault, but the trunk is disfigured for years and can be a key source for insect infestation years later.

Trees with thin bark are at the greatest risk:  Ash, Beech, Birch, Cottonwood, Dogwood, Honey Locust, Linden, Mountain Ash, Oak, Sugar Maple, Oak, Tulip tree, Willow, and most fruit trees.

Management Strategies

• Wrap the bark of young trees with commercial tree wrap or burlap or slit PVC pipe. Remove the wrap in spring. Or, provide shade for the tree with temporary fencing.

• If you don't mind the look, tree trunks can be painted with white latex paint to reflect the sunlight. The light color will reflect light and slow warm up, delaying the bark from coming out of dormancy. Use indoor paint only.

• Prune with care.  Avoid heavy pruning of older trees that would expose limbs and trunk that have been shaded to direct sunlight.  Gradually thin out limbs over several years.

• Be sure and water at least 1 inch per week (or saturate to depth to 12 to 18 inches). Mulch the entire root zone.

For additional reading:

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/NR_FF_021pr.pdf 

http://www.tulsamastergardeners.org/lawngarden/plant_pathology/webs/sunscald.html

 

http://www.uaex.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/Sunscald-southwest-injury-07-08-2016.aspx

 

The Tulsa Master Gardener Foundation receives no city, state or federal funding for its programs. In fact, the majority of Tulsa's Master Gardener programs are self-funded.

Tulsa Master Gardener's own fundraisers make up most of the income to cover expenses. A significant portion comes from the Tulsa Master Gardener Annual Plant Sale that is held each April. Other fundraisers include the Garden Tour (June) and "Garage Sales" that occur from time to time. Finally, one other income source that sometimes gets overlooked are personal and corporate donations.  These are so important in helping to meet our financial obligations and are very much appreciated. 

Donations for this month include:

General Fund

Judi Hofer - Tulsa Master Gardener

Speakers Bureau Fund

Timberland Garden Club

Koi Pond Fund

Gary S. / Jimmie L. Mathews

Please consider making an online contribution HERE. For other information on how you can help support all that the Tulsa Master Gardeners do for their community, contact the Tulsa Master Gardeners Office by calling (918) 746-3701.  Thank you! 

Our Master Gardeners are on hand to assist you with even the toughest gardening questions. Visit us in person, by phone, via email or online! Hours of operation are Monday through Friday 9:00 a.m to 4:00 p.m.

Address: 4116 E. 15th Street, Gate 6 at the Fairgrounds

Phone: (918) 746-3701