The Great Dickens Christmas Fair Missive
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Great Dickens Christmas Fair 2014 - October Missive #5
The Great Costume Missive! 
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Notes from your Missive Maven:
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From our Costume Director, Liz Martin ([email protected]):

It's the annual Great Costume Missive!


Cat


Please remember to contact the folks referenced in each notice above, rather than hitting "reply".

Need to change your email address for or unsubscribe from the missives? Want to read past missives? Please visit this page: http://www.cattaylor.com/missives.html

Cat Taylor
Entertainment Director, Missive & Social Media Maven
In This Missive
Introduction
The costume guidelines are on the Dickens Fair website
Why do we have costume approval?
The Quick and Dirty List of What to Wear
What is this thing called costume approval?
How does it work? New things at costume approval
Some General Notes
Fabric and Pattern Selection
Rentals
Summary
Reminder: Costume Vendors at Workshops
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Introduction

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From Liz:

 

Okay, I'm not going to lie, most of the following is a repeat from last year. I think really did a good job, so I didn't need to update much. It's still a good idea to reread it. Honest. All of it. 


This is going to be our best year yet - I just know it!

There are a few things that I would like to address:

Fastrack: Please remember that the people who are working fastrack are VOLUNTEERS, just like you!  And we have new helpers this year.  A lot of time has been put in to create this data base. It is STILL a work in progress.
Yes, photos have been lost (a computer was stolen), some didn't turn out as nice as we would have liked, and well, we are all human. We understand that it is frustrating to have to get your picture re-taken . Please be patient.  Also, there is no correlation between the Eventbrite registration and the information we need for costume approval/fastrack.

Fastrack Table: Will open after the morning meeting. It will be located inside the cafeteria (where we gather for the morning meeting) to the far left as you come in.

Approvals: We are still in the process of scheduling Saturday. We will post the times at the workshops in Pacifica.

The Costume Class: Is a 2 hour class.  Because of the morning meeting on the first Saturday, , it is split by the lunch break. If enough of the class would prefer, I am willing to teach thru the lunch hour to enable people to squeeze in another class. Juliana will take a vote on it when she starts the class. 

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The costume guidelines are on the Dickens Fair website  

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The costume guidelines are available all year, but please take some time to visit the website and review them.

http://dickensfair.com/costumeguide  
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Why do we have costume approval?   

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We have costume approval so that there is a cohesive overall look to the fair. All participants in the fair (cast members, employees, vendors, volunteers, door mice, helper cats) must receive costume approval prior to opening (or before receiving their pass): registration forms must be stamped with costume approval in order to receive a gate pass. Yes, we will be doing approvals at the Cow Palace
Opening weekend.

 

It is because of this attention to detail that The Great Dickens Fair has the ability to transport our patrons to our own version of Mr. Dickens' London.
 

What you wear really matters. The costumes are the biggest part of the scenery ~ and a big part of creating the magic!  Please, please make sure that you are always fully dressed in costume whenever you are in the public view.

As the fair's costume director, it is my privilege to facilitate the fashions of London.  We ask that our participants/vendors wear clothing that would lead the casual observer to believe that they have just stepped back in time to Christmas Eve in London somewhere between the years 1842-1863. It is my job to help you create an ensemble that immediately conveys to the patrons your station/occupation/class/cast here in London.  

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The Quick and Dirty List of What to Wear   

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Women:

  • Corsets: highly suggested  - mid 19th century styles, over the bust

  • Hoops or Crinolines: the circumference of your hoop should be no more than 95" - 110". Corded petticoats are wonderful for giving the correct line without the fullness of a hoop. Remember, the poor women of London did not wear hoops. They would have had multiple petticoats or a corded petticoat. A crinoline is defined here as a petticoat with multiple layers  or ruffles.
  • Dress/ Bodice and skirt:  Fabric in both the bodice and skirt match, long sleeves or mid-arm length with white undersleeves, no zippers 

    OR
     
  • Skirt, jacket and blouse: Full bell shaped skirt, a Zouave jacket (bolero) which is worn with a white, front buttoning blouse (garibaldi) with a peter pan collar or just a plain neck band. 
  • Colors: We are going for jewel tones, NO BLACK please, (unless Mr. Dickens wrote you dressed all in black).  Plaids are wonderful, again in the darker jewel tones, & patterned cotton fabrics are also acceptable - (Please let me see the swatch BEFORE you start sewing!) Adding a petticoat over your hoops will keep you from committing that dreaded fashion faux pas of hoop lines showing!

  • NO BUSTLES. Nuf said.

  • Indoor headwear:  day caps. Made of lace and adorned with all sorts of ribbons and bows they are the ideal item to cover your hair while indoors. An extra bonus is that they fit nicely under your bonnet - no need to remove them when you sally forth on the streets of London. 
  • Bonnet - made of felt, covered buckram, or straw. Trimmed with lace, trimmed with ribbons, natural looking silk flowers, lace
  • Outerwear:  A cape or shawl works nicely to show that you are outside, and along with gloves, a scarf and a bonnet.  Please - no top hats on women - of ANY size.

 

What is the deal with Bonnets anyway? Yes, the ladies of this time did wear hats. Bonnets are one of the quickest ways to convey that we are in fact portraying another time and place to the patrons.  It sets you, the participants, apart from the customers and it helps to further the illusion of being in another time period. Bonnets do not have to encase the head or give the feeling of blinders.  
 

Men:

  • Pants: natural waistline is preferred , wool, heavy cotton, or corduroy, either plaid or plain, Pant legs should be tapered in and no cuffs.  Yes, we know that this will make you look like Urkel, but that was the fashion at the time.
  • Suspenders - no belt. In fact - removal of your belt loops will make us very happy! 

  • Vest/waistcoat:  Can have a collar or not, no points in the front (straight across), single or double breasted, should button fairly high on the chest, does not generally match either the pants or the jacket - plaids, brocades & stripes are wonderful.  There should be no shirt showing between the bottom of the vest and your pants!

 

Check out this link for more info:  

http://williamsclothiers.com/2011/09/how-to-wear-trousers-properly-and-avoid-gaposis/

  • Jacket: Choice of Frock, morning, or tail coat . Alternate is a Sack suit

Does not always have to match the pants, however, in the case of a sack suit, all 3 pieces would/can match. 

  • Shirt: for laborers/lower class it can be striped or colored,

OR

  • Shirt:  clerks and those in the middle/rising/upper class wear white, either with a standing collar or a detachable, stiff collar. Note that a modern shirt with the collar turned up only approximates this look; the points should be no longer than 3". Also be sure to get a shirt that fits properly.
     
  • Cravat: all men should be wearing some form of a cravat.
  • Outer wear: Capes, overcoats or shawls are perfect for men.
  • Gloves, scarf, and a HAT (top hat, bowler, or soft newsboy style)   

  

Shoes - period looking, comfortable with good socks 

 

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What is this thing called costume approval?

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My goals, as always, are to make approvals as stress-free as possible and to work with each of you to create the most beautifully populated London our customers have ever seen.

 
So how does this translate to you, the performer?

1)      There is a dress code and a time line.1842- 1863
2)      We are going for the rule - NOT the exception
3)      We want you to look good and be comfortable in your costume
4)      We are all on the same team!
5)      Have fun!  
 
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How does it work?  New things at costume approval

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New Workshop Approval Protocols

 

We are attempting a new system this year. Please read this very carefully! And be patient with us. We are doing our best to make approvals go faster and smoother.

 

IF you have questions about what to wear or want to go over items, please DO NOT GET IN LINE!  
Please attend the costume workshop and ask your questions there. If you still have questions you can make an appointment to see Liz in the afternoon.

 

First year participants must attend the costume workshop before getting costume approval.

 

NEW! Are you a member of  Fezziwig"s or Other Books? Please have your costume signed off by your directors BEFORE coming through costume approval.  Your costume must be finished to receive final costume approval.

 

There will be 3 lines: New participants/Returning Participants with new costumes, Returning participants, and FASTRACK!

 

  • New participants/Returning Participants with new costumes: IF you are new to the fair or have a new costume, this is the line to be in. You should be fully dressed with hat, bonnet, shoes, outerwear, etc.
  • Returning participants who did not have their picture taken last year: You have worn your costume for the last 3 years (or longer). You should be fully dressed with hat, bonnet, shoes, outerwear, etc.
  • FASTRACK!:  You have submitted a current picture to your director or had your picture taken in the  last couple of years and have not received a note from Liz saying that you not approved. We will have a list - by cast - and will stamp you quickly. You do not need to wear your costume.

 

Your Character's Background
You will be asked to who you are playing/group/director & what station they hold in London.

Please do not give us your entire back-story.

The approval crew will do our very best to get you through the approval process quickly and easily. Please be patient with us and we will in turn be patient with you.

   
Should you have multiple costumes please be prepared to show us all of them - on your body!

What do we look for?

We do a head to toe scan. Part of the approval process is to not only see that the colors and styles that you have chosen are correct but also look at the overall fit of your costume. Therefore do not be surprised if you go away with suggestions and a few safety pins in your outfit!

 

  • For the men: Do your pants come up high enough - above the natural waistline?  Does your waistcoat overlap the waistband of your pants? Or is there (shudder) "gap-osis"?  I encourage all of our male participants to consider investing in a pair of pants and a waistcoat that are period correct. ? Are you wearing suspenders? Are the belt loops removed from your pants? What kind of shoes are you wearing? Do they look correct? Is there enough room for insoles.  Dark socks? 

  • For the women:  Silhouette first.   We are going for a full, pleated or gathered skirt that is attached to a waistband.  Think of an upside down  "U" rather than the straight lines of an "A". 
    Do your shoes look right? Is there enough room for insoles? Please keep the heels to no more than 2". The Cow Palace is a very hard cement floor and it can be brutal.  

A day cap and then a bonnet. A day cap is a bit of fluff - usually lace and often ribbon trimmed that was worn under the bonnet and kept the top of the head covered when the bonnet is removed.  If you work in a shop you should be wearing a day cap or a mop cap.
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Some General Notes: 

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Pizzazz!

Add some Victorian bling - and I don't mean glittery fabric.

The Victorian women loved to add d�cor to their clothing: ribbons, fabric roses, trim - and this can be done at any class level. Just remember what your characters financial means are and go from there. And no, having a "wealthy patron" will not automatically get you the ability to wear a lot of expensive floof on your dress!

For the men - add a watch chain and hang a fob from it. A sprig of holly in your hatband allows even the most serious of our London denizens to acknowledge the season.  Let your waistcoats be colorful - it is Christmas you know!
 
Checklist

Please, do develop a morning checklist and go over it each day before you leave your home. I strongly encourage both men and women to have duplicates for those items worn closest to the skin (shirts/blouses, chemises, drawers/bloomers) as well as an extra pair of socks. That way you can make it through the weekend without taking anything home to wash.
 
Make up

Women in the 19th century liked to be thought of as fragile ladies. They aimed always to look pale which was achieved by staying inside and out of the harsh sun. Rouge was rarely used and lipstick unheard of, make-up in general was frowned upon in. Actresses or "those women down at Sal's" used make up such as powder and lipstick but a lady would only admit to pinching her cheeks for a flush of natural glow.
 
That said...

Both men and women - Please use makeup. Naturally. No heavy eye make-up.  The Dickens Fair is aglow with unnatural lighting to emulate perpetual twilight.  This makes many people look sallow or can wash out your features. Foundation, a little mascara, a touch of natural color on the cheeks and lips and a light application of eyebrow pencil will go a long way in making you look better in the streets. The mineral make-up that goes on like a powder is wonderful and very natural looking. Do remember, with any foundation, to touch up your make-up mid-way thru the day. If you are on stage, please use appropriate stage makeup. Consult with your Director at dress rehearsal to find the best look for you.
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Fabric and Pattern Selection  

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Remember, the years that the Dickens Fair covers are 1842 - 1863. 
Deep, rich jewel toned colors are the trend this season; they can be in plaids or stripes as well as plain fabric. Dark colors were worn for practical reasons as well: the streets of London were filthy, not to mention the soot in the air. 


This is a fabulous book to have as part of your library to help you identify period correct prints:   

Dating Fabrics: A Color Guide 1800-1960 by Eileen Jahnke Trestain

Or to look on-line at

http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/electronicswatchbook/
 
Please do not choose modern fluorescent colors, pastels, or modern fabric designs. Wool, gabardine, velvet, and brocade are wonderful, but not lightweight fabrics like madras, cotton flannel, or seersucker. If you have any questions after reading the additional info on the Dickens website, please feel free to contact us by email:   
[email protected]
 
You are welcome to send scanned swatches of fabric, sketches, or snaps of out-of-print patterns for approval or advice. If you have construction questions, those are welcome as well. Swatches should really be sent snail mail - it's too difficult to judge from the image.
They can be mailed to:
Liz Martin
712 Alhambra Ave 
Martinez, CA 94553
 
Patterns are listed on the website or can be found in the 2011 Great Costume Missive

 
Places to buy patterns, fabric and trim
Brick & Mortar shops


Joanne Stores 
Hancock's
Home Fabrics - Concord
Fabrics-R- Us - San Jose


Fabric Depot - El Sobrante

4100 San Pablo Dam Road

El Sobrante, CA 94803

Between Appian Way, by Jack in the Box

 

Stone Mountain & Daughter - Berkeley
Lacis - Berkeley
 
On-Line   

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net    

http://www.cheeptrims.com    

http://www.such-a-deal.com    

http://www.bblackandsons.com    

http://www.fabric.com�  

http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/shelf.php?ID=39
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Rentals

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Back by popular demand, the costume department will once again be offering a limited number of garments for rental.

Full outfits, as well as single items, will be available on a daily, weekend, or run-of-fair basis. Individuals that are new to the fair and lack costume pieces or will be given first priority.


This service will not be available until dress rehearsal weekend at the Cow Palace. 

If you think you are going to need to rent something, please email Liz ASAP at [email protected] 

Please include your measurements , character and cast.
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Summary 

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This missive is not meant to be the end all in costuming information, though I am sure it seems like it! It is difficult to cover all classes, occupations and casts in one email or even on the website. Again, please email me with any questions. It's just the costume department's way of touching base with all of you and letting you know what our expectations will be at workshops.

I look forward to working with each and every one of you.

See you in London!  
 

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Reminder: Costume Vendors at Workshops   

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(from Liz Martin)


Still have a bit of shopping to do? 
The following people will be selling at workshops in Pacifica ONLY: 

 

Lynn Combs: general merchandise, clothing
Dark Garden: corsets
Robin Driskill: reticules
Barbara Ebel: gently used clothing
Annie Lore: wigs, hair pieces (time TBA)
Lynn McMasters: bonnets & patterns
Dorothy O'Hare: fabric, trim, books, buttons, etc.
Jacqueline Palacios: bonnets
Amanda Seals: bows and ribbons
Jeffery Schoenberg: Stacy Adams boots, old studio stock: shirts, pants, petticoats
Mark Shanks: used clothing
Yuly Springer: corsets (Saturday only)
Ann Tavern: aprons, petticoats and more
The company store (Liz Martin et al) gently used clothing for kids and adults, used shoes.

Quick Links...
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The Great Dickens Christmas Fair Website
Dickens Fair Performer Page
Cat's Missive Page
The Great Dickens Christmas Fair Facebook page
Dickens Fair Twitter
Join the Public Email List
Contact Information
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For specific questions regarding performing at the Fair, please email Cat Taylor
If your group would like to perform at the Fair for just one day (school caroling groups, etc.)
please email Robert Young
For specific questions regarding vending at the Fair please email Vendors
For specific questions the beverage department please email Beverage
For questions regarding costumes, please email Costumes
To join the public email list, please click here http://dickensfair.com/involved
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