May
2016
ISSUE
NO. 2
SPRING 2016
LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENTS
We are sure you are all on your way to the Beyonce concert tonight, but first lets talk jewels. 

We want to thank all of you for the amazing turnout and support for this year's events From our talk with Dava from Noise 13 to our Chat 'n Chill at DNH Jewelers with Marlen and Hratch, we are thrilled with the positive feedback and the incredible engagement. As we have said before, being in San Francisco we are surrounded by innovative thought and talent and we hope to bring that to you with every event.

This week we are excited to host some of our industry's most sought after experts in Social Media at The  Clementina. Creating an unconventional space of their own in this competitive industry, Benjamin Guttery of Thirdcoastgems, Hannah Becker of Diamondoodles, and Angie Crabtree utilized social media to gain visibility and in a short period of time became beloved icons for all things jewelry.  We can't wait for this Social Media panel with key tips from these experts. 

We know its one of the craziest times of year with Vegas around the corner but we hope this event offers you an opportunity to take a breather, connect with friends, and learn a thing or two along the way. 

Also, if you are ever interested in hosting an event at your space or have recommendations for our next event, please email us or Sarah at  [email protected].

See you on Thursday!

Best,
Rada and Prerna
Northern California Chapter Co-Presidents
Women's Jewelry Association
EVENT HIGHLIGHTS
 
BRAND + DESIGN WITH SPECIAL GUEST 
DAVA GUTHMILLER OF NOISE 13
SPEAKER SERIES | FEB 16TH, 2016
66 MINT, SAN FRANCISCO


The branding and design discussion at 66 Mint in February was a huge success.  Dava not only spoke to the importance of creating a concise brand image but she also went above and beyond with case studies by pulling specifics from those in attendance such as Sethi Couture, Little Bird, and 66 Mint (that's really doing your homework!) and showed us what she these brands were doing well. 

Dava spoke about  Sethi Couture owned and operated by our Co-President Prerna and sister Pratima. She discussed that their brand philosophy of Elevate the Everyday was consistent with how they presented product in their social media channels and with the content as swoon-worthy and as polished as their diamond stackers. 

Another example that caught Dava's eye as having clever marketing was Little Bird , an engagement consultancy agency founded by Danielle Mainas.  The bird puns on their website makes it impossible to view without smiling but it's more that just clever wording.  Danielle has clearly streamlined what could be a difficult process and have created a new niche market that incorporates a friendly, no-pressure approach to buying the perfect engagement ring.  Check it out if you are involved in any aspect of the knee-bending process - click here if you make jewels or here if you'd like to receive some. 

Dava also mentioned  66 Mint , where our event was held that balmy February night.  An SF gem that's been family owned and operated since 1961, 66 mint is a must-see.  You may need sunglasses on a bright day from all of the diamonds sparkling in their cases and you'll also be delighted at the range of styles, prices, and designers featured.  66 Mint not only sells estate pieces but they purchase them, as well, so keep them in mind if you'd like to hawk your great aunt's cousin's not-so-perfect ring for the vintage Tiffany necklace you're drooling over while you're there. Rachel Deppe, our chair of membership, not only work there but also helped to organize the night so make sure to give her a call if you'd like to pop in and schedule an appointment.  Take a look at these brands and gain some inspiration if you are a jeweler or aspiring entrepreneur with dreams of selling high-end retail. 

Overall, the event was a huge success and we are extremely thankful to Dava for her time and attention.  If you need any branding or design help, make sure to give her a call.  For more info on her and her amazing company, Noise 13, click here.  And if you sadly missed out, just make sure to come to the next event and bring along a friend!  

Speaker Dava Guthmiller (Noise 13) and co-president Prerna Sethi (Sethi Couture) chat before an amazing lecture on branding and design.
A rapt audience (as clearly we can use all the help we can get!)
Board members Rachel Deppe (66 Mint) and Sarah Johnson (Jahan Diamond Importers) after the lecture, doing what they do so well - talking gorgeous jewelry!
 
++++++++++++++++

ENGRAVING MASTERS
FEATURING  HRATCH NARGIZIAN AND MARLEN HAZEL
SPEAKER SERIES - MARCH 23RD
D & H JEWELERS, SAN FRANCISCO

Jewelry professionals from across the Bay Area packed into D&H Jewelers in The Castro on March 23rd to celebrate the work of Hratch Nargizian and Marlen Hazel.  Hratch and Marlen shared a series of their works, from some of their earliest pieces to some of their most recent engravings but all were magnificent to behold and to hold.  With the introduction of more and more mechanized engraving, the work that they do is becoming a lost art in our field and it was humbling and inspiring to see not only how insanely talented they both are but also how much they love to do it.  

Hratch announced officially that he is moving to Hawaii for retirement this summer and is soon to be known as "Big Island Hratch."  Although we wish him the best of luck, we are awfully sad to see him go but are thankful that Marlen is continuing his legacy of excellence in the same small studio in the Shreve Building.  Rumor has it that Hratch is moving to a small artist community on the Big Island where weather is known to be overcast, cool, and rainy, so it might not be so different from his San Francisco home, after all!

If you own something that Hratch has engraved, have worked with Hratch for many years, or just went to see him one time and he made your jewelry (or a client's) look sooooo much better than you ever could have done yourself, you know how special this man is.  Please sit down right now (or if you're reading this at work - set a reminder on your calendar!), pull out your good stationery, and let him know how much you appreciate him.  Even if you just want to tell him a story of the funniest joke that you ever heard him tell and how you're still laughing about it, please put it in writing today and put it in the mail tomorrow.  Here's an example of mine:

The first time that I went to see Hratch to learn the basics of engraving, he asked me if I knew the difference between engravers and stone setters.  After a bit of thought, I responded that I did not, and without cracking a smile he muttered back with that marvelous accent that "stone setters are chain smokers."  

The more the merrier!  We had such a great crowd at D&H for the engraving showcase.

Board members: Prerna Sethi, Laurien Kamphuis and Rachel Deppe.

Sara Beck and Elena Isca

Toasting to a successful night honoring local artists

Julie Cristello and friend admiring the gorgeous jewelry at D&H.

Hratch, telling his  wild tales to Roberta Tanaka, Yaz Tanaka, and Glenda Ruth, all members of the Revere Academy staff and seriously talented jewelers.

Hratch and Marlen thanking the crowd for coming

Marlen and "Big Island" Hratch - this picture was taken a few weeks after the D&H event, while being honored at Revere Academy
NEW MEMBER SPOTLIGHT - KARIN LEE LUVAAS


Name:  Karin Lee Luvaas

Company:  Leelu Designs

Hometown:  Racine, WI

Current town/city:  Redwood City, CA

What led you to the jewelry industry? A passion for expressing my creativity through art.

What led you to the WJA? An interest in finding a community of like-minded people to collaborate and network with.

What jewelry do you wear every day? 98% my own creations.

What is your most treasured piece of jewelry? Currently, an 18K gold granulated ring with a 1c raw diamond and sapphires that I just completed in a Master Symposium class at Revere Academy with Kent Raible.

What is the most rewarding aspect of your job? I enjoy the process of creation when I am in the flow, I am present with my work.  It's a form of meditation for me.

What frustrates you most about your job? Always wanting more time in a day to complete just one more thing.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years? I see myself with a much evolved jewelry line than I have today.  I hope to have my work in local jewelry shops, and have been accepted into ACC shows.

What are you inspired by right now? Natural stones with inclusions and beautiful slabs of agate and jasper.

What do you feel is most exciting about the jewelry world right now? The variety of art jewelry that is being made by talented jewelers around the world.

What scares you about the jewelry world right now (if anything)?  The starting pay for most bench jeweler jobs 

What do you love most about your studio space? I have everything in one location.

What tool are you pining after? A kiln.

What's the best advice you could give someone who's dreaming of doing what you do one day? Create an achievable business plan.  Do a little bit of work everyday towards your goal and before you know it you will be doing what you love as your career.  
  

NEW MEMBER SPOTLIGHT - MONICA YICHOY

Name:  Monica Yichoy

Company: Monica Fiorella Jewelry

Hometown: I grew up in Fremont, California, but have lived in a lot of places and they have all been "home."

Current town/city:  Concord, California

What led you to the jewelry industry?  A psychic in Washington, DC. Some years ago, a psychic was featured in the newspaper and claimed she advised successful business people. Out of curiosity, I went to see her.  She told me I should be making jewelry.  At the time, I was getting ready for two foot surgeries.  I would need something to do, so why not give it a shot? I learned to make beaded jewelry.  It was fun making patterns and entertained me while my foot was in a cast. For my second surgery a few months later, I needed a new challenge. I progressed to wire wrapping.  But I still wanted to learn more, so I took a class on making silver jewelry at a local art school.  I set up a studio at home, started fabricating jewelry on the evenings after work, and selling at arts festivals on weekends.  Last year, I decided this was my passion and it was time to make jewelry my only full-time career.  

What led you to the WJA?  I found out about WJA at the Revere Academy while I was taking the Jewelry Technician Intensive program.  Women's equality is important to me, and I wanted to be a part of a group of women who are making a difference in an industry that used to be male-dominated.  

What jewelry do you wear every day?  I design and fabricate filigree jewelry.  So I wear dangly filigree earrings and diamond studs along with a pendant, and a ring or two on my right hand.  My wedding and engagement rings on my left.  

What is your most treasured piece of jewelry? My favorite is a hinge bracelet made of 3 colors of 18k gold, it's engraved and moves so smoothly.  My great-aunt bought it in Italy many decades ago and gave it to me before she passed.  It's an absolutely beautiful piece of craftsmanship and reminds me of her.

What is the most rewarding aspect of your job?  The perfect clean piece after I've dedicated hours to the design and getting my hands dirty making it.

What frustrates you most about your job?  When tiny gemstones take flight and disappear.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years?  I see myself having a studio somewhere outside my house and some collections at a few stores in different cities in the U.S., employing a bench jeweler and someone to help me with marketing and administrative work. 

What are you inspired by right now?  Currently, I'm being inspired by old artistic and religious patterns such as Celtic knots and spirals as well as traditional Arabic designs. These were so carefully created and based in geometry, I feel it bridges my background as a mathematics major in college with my artistic endeavors in designing jewelry.  I have also started to look at  natural patterns such as flower petals, leaf composition, and the nautilus.  

What do you feel is most exciting about the jewelry world right now?  There are so many jewelers with just as many styles.  I love seeing what other people are making.

What scares you about the jewelry world right now (if anything)?  I worry about what mining is doing to the earth. But then I think about the employment created by these mining operations, not just for miners, but also the indirect jobs such as stone cutters, electricians, machinists, or the lunch truck.  We have options now with lab-grown gems and refineries.  They can have sustainable and ethical practices and that's great.  Yet sadly, lab-grown stones get a bad rep and customers don't want them.  There's no easy solution. 

What do you love most about your studio space?  My big sunny window. 

What tool are you pining after?  I would love to get a Durston rolling mill

What's the best advice you could give someone who's dreaming of doing what you do one day?
On the business side, because I'm now self-employed, I would advise someone to take the time to know this is what they want, but be prepared for the uncertainty that comes with being self-employed as opposed to earning a paycheck working for someone else.

On the technical aspect, don't be afraid to mess up a piece you're working on. Don't beat yourself up; recycle, learn from the mistake, then start over.


UPCOMING CALENDAR EVENTS
***THIS WEEK***WJA Panel Discussion: Alternative Careers in Jewelry, Featuring
Hannah Becker of Diamond Doodles, Diamond Painter  Angie Crabtree and  Benjamin Guttery of Thirdcoast Gems
When: Thursday, May 19th, 2016, 6 pm till 9 pm
Where: The Clementina, 442 Clementina, San Francisco, CA 94103 
Website: Please check out their instagram accounts: @diamonddoodles, @angiecrabtree and @thirdcoastgems if you aren't loving them already!
***PLEASE RSVP HERE IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY***

COUTURE Las Vegas 
When: June 2-6, 2016
Where: Wynn Las Vegas
Time: 9 am till 6 pm (most days)

JCK Las Vegas  
When: June 3-6, 2016
Where: Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino
Time: 9:30 am till 6:00 pm (most days)

The Great San Francisco Crystal Fair   
When: June 11-12, 2016
Where: Fort Mason, Building A, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco, CA
Time: 10 am till 6 pm (Saturday) and 10 am till 4 pm (Sunday)
Admission: $10 (children under 12 free if accompanied by adult)

West Coast Craft Fair 
When: June 11-12, 2016
Where: The Festival Pavilion, Fort Mason, San Francisco, CA
Time:  Check website for details
Admission: Free!

The Renegade Craft Fair   
When: July 16-17, 2016
Where: Fort Mason, Festival Pavilion, San Francisco, CA
Time: 11 am till 6 pm (Saturday) and 10 am till 4 pm (Sunday)
Admission: Free!

EDUCATION NEWS
New classes have been added to Revere Academy's next Open Session series staring this fall and all of them sound amazing. In addition to these new classes, the standard offering is chock-full of some of the best education available in jewelry education today.  Whether you are interested in learning beginning skills, would like to brush up some somewhat rusty skills, or learn something new entirely, Revere has classes that can help.  Check online for class requirements, costs, and scheduling.  
ENAMELING WITH LINDA DARTY

Take a class withs special guest, author and instructor, Linda Darty.

In a 5-day class, explore the rich beauty of cloisonné enameling over fine silver, working with transparent and opalescent color on small-scale jewelry pieces. 

In a 2-day class for both beginning and advanced students, learn basic application and firing techniques with opaque and transparent enamels. 

Linda Darty is head of the metals program at East Caroline University in Greenville, NC. Her work is in numerous public and private collections including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
ETHICAL JEWELRY

Are your customers asking you questions that you can't answer about your materials? This class will give you all the information you need to green your jewelry business and meet the changing needs of your customers as they demand more ethically sourced materials. Learn where gold comes from, about green suppliers and what you can do to promote healthy mining practices. Learn how to respond to customers' questions about the sourcing and sustainability of your materials. Class includes gold testing, ingot making, safe and eco-friendly studio practices, and more. $50 of your class fee will be donated to Ethical Metalsmiths ( ethicalmetalsmiths.org). 
hours. 
HISTORY OF JEWELRY AND METALWORK

Inform and ignite new ideas for your own work. This one-day class presents a survey of some of the greatest examples of jewelers' art from around the world and across the ages. Through images, presentations of historical context and discussions of techniques, you will learn what makes these pieces so special and why they continue to inspire artists today. This list of work comes from Ireland, Meiji Japan, Ancient Egypt, Ivory Coast, Native America, Mughul India, as well as Art Nouveau from Renee Lalique and the Arts & Crafts, Art Deco and Modernism movements. 
hours. 
KEUM BOO

Keum Boo, or  "attached gold,"  is an ancient Korean technique for bonding gold foil to silver and other metals. This amazing technique can bring limitless design possibilities to your jewelry and add brilliant gold accents at minimal cost. Learn to bond thin sheets of pure gold to silver and Argentium silver. Design and create a pair of silver earrings and a silver pendant adorned with rich Keum Boo gold. Instruction includes roller embossing, roller printing, creating a relief, subtractive texturing techniques and also resists that can be combined with Keum Boo for dramatic effect. Prerequisite: Fabrication 2 or experience. 
16 hours. 
PLATINUM

While platinum behaves like gold and silver in most ways, there are distinct differences that a bench jeweler must know. Learn basic fabrication, polishing, soldering, and welding in platinum. Instruction and hands-on practice include sizing rings, casting an ingot, annealing, rolling, drawing platinum wire, and making a pendant with a basket setting. Prerequisite: Fabrication 3 or experience. 
24 hours. 
WAX MODELING 2: ADVANCED MODEL MAKING

Few people have the chance to learn advanced skills like those taught in this class. Your instructor, a master wax carver, presents several sophisticated techniques to integrate into your wax models. Instruction covers form-fitting bands, combining waxes, doing figurative work, precision layout, using advanced tools and much more. You will complete a series of challenging projects while perfecting newly acquired skills. Prerequisite: Wax Carving & Model Making or experience. 24 hours. 


The Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts is located in downtown San Francisco's historic Humboldt Bank Building. Schedules, information, and a free video tour are available upon request. Please visit their website at  www.revereacademy.com  or email them at [email protected] for more information on these or any other additional classes.
ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER
2016 WJA NORTHERN CA CHAPTER BOARD
Co-Presidents
Rada Sahney, Zaver & Mor
Prerna Sethi, Sethi Couture

Vice President
Sarah Thomas, Jahan Diamond Importers

Secretary
Sawyer Riley, Sawyer Riley

Events Chair
Laurien Kamphuis, Huis Jewelry

Events Chair
Laura Forst, Aesthetic Movement

Fundraising Chair
Erica Scott

Membership Chair
Rachel Deppe, 66 Mint

Membership Chair
Clare Ullman, Clare Ullman Design

Communications Chair
Andrea Stiassni, The Kollective

Communications Chair
Eden Penfield, Relola