Fruit, glorious fruit - that's Jean Pierre's motto and his newly arrived 2014 Domaine Cheysson Beaujolais Cru Chiroubles absolutely sings with an abundance of it. This wine is buoyantly juicy with a finish that is vibrantly fresh and will have you salivating in eager anticipation of your next sip.
This is what the French call a "vin d'amitié," a wine of friendship. It is a convivial wine that always tastes delicious and doesn't take a masters degree to enjoy; and it doesn't tax the palate or the pocketbook. We're all friends here so I'll give it to you straight - this wine is downright gulpable.
Jean-Pierre Large is the Beaujolais Cru master behind this exceptional (and perennially popular) Domaine Cheysson Chiroubles. We have imported this wine for more than 15 years.
Although the 2014 has not yet been reviewed, this wine has received consistently glowing reviews and impressive ratings over the years - a sampling of which I've included here:
Robert Parker went so far as to include the Domaine Cheysson Chiroubles in his book "World's Best Wine Values under $25" (of course this is way under $25) with this enthusiastic endorsement: "This lip-smacking yet thought-provoking revelation of quality for its appellation features ripe fresh red raspberries accented by orange zest, white pepper, nut oils, and mineral notes." - Robert Parker.
Robert Parker (the man clearly has it bad for this wine) reviewed the 2010 in the Wine Advocate, gushing, "The Cheysson 2010 Chiroubles is scented and brightly informed with red currant, wild strawberry, and sour cherry accompanied by their high-toned distilled counterparts. These are then laced with a bite and prickle of horseradish that continues on an otherwise sleek palate and all the way through a refreshing and invigorating finish in which a lick of salt enhances the mouthwatering inclination to take renewed sips." - Robert Parker
The 2011 received one of the highest ratings I've ever seen for a Beaujolais Cru, 91 points, and this review: "Brilliant ruby. Energetic cherry and black raspberry aromas and flavors, with a sexy floral nuance adding complexity. Puts on weight with air without any loss of vivacity. Juicy and light on its feet, in the style of the vintage. Finishes with excellent clarity and persistence. 91 points" - Josh Raynolds, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
And more recently Josh Reynolds recognized the 2013 with a 90-point rating and this description, which will have your tongue wagging for a sip:
"Brilliant ruby-red. Intensely perfumed aromas of black raspberry, anise, candied lavender and minerals, with a subtle peppery quality emerging with aeration. Sappy and expansive on the palate, offering bitter cherry and dark berry flavors given spine by tangy acidity. Clings with very good tenacity and focus, leaving a note of white pepper behind. -- Josh Raynolds, Vinous
I'll stop here because the pattern is obvious - Domaine Cheysson's Chiroubles is a winner. It is distinctive and delicious and it consistently seduces even the most seasoned and respected wine professionals.
Here's the scoop on the 2014 vintage in the Beaujolais region:
According to Wine Spectator "the wines benefited from fantastic weather in September, resulting in lively acidity and lots of bright fruit."
According to Vinous, 2014 in Beaujolais is "Shaping up to be an excellent year. The wines are abundantly fruity and structured...Rated 92."
Most of you know this wine so you've probably already hit reply to secure your case (and who can blame you). For the uninitiated, here's some additional background on the appellation:
The Chiroubles Jean-Pierre makes at Domaine Cheysson is 100% Gamay and comes from high-altitude vines where the cool nights help the grapes retain their characteristic acidity and freshness. It is a lighter-bodied red with plentiful fruit.
Jean-Pierre has managed the Cheysson family vineyards for over 20 years - the Domaine hires him as their full-time winemaker and vineyard master - he knows every inch of these superb vineyards. His style is aromatic - he goes for fruit and freshness, no excess tannins. Jean-Pierre's substantial winemaking talent is on display in this wine, which exemplifies the wonderful and distinct potential of its unique Chiroubles terroir.
Remember, this is Cru Beaujolais, the highest classification of Beaujolais wines. It has little to nothing to do with Beaujolais Nouveau, plain old Beaujolais, or even Beaujolais Villages. Cru Beaujolais is a far more serious and complex wine.
There are only 10 villages in Beaujolais that are allowed to put their names on the labels because of their superior terroir. These wines are the Cru Beaujolais. They are all found in the cooler Beaujolais "mountains." Chiroubles is of course one of those special villages and is, in fact, at the highest altitude of them all.
The high elevation of Chiroubles means more than vineyards with a beautiful view (you can see all the way to the Alps). The extra altitude translates to cooler temperatures for the vines at night, an important factor in maintaining the acidity levels in the grapes, an essential element in producing a wine with freshness and vigorous character.
Janics Robinson writes of the appeal of Beaujolais wines, "As so many of the world's wine drinkers are now seeking fresher, fruitier, livelier wines, unmarked by heavy oaking, Beaujolais, and especially its Crus, deserve much more attention than they are currently accorded. They can be enjoyed young, with a wide range of foods, and on their own. These are the quintessential reds to serve as aperitifs, lightly chilled..." -Jancis Robinson
That suggestion of "lightly chilled" is a very good one and that's the way good Beaujolais is served in France during the summer (and at the Hurley's).
It definitely has a place at my dinner table, and it is one of my most frequently-enjoyed wines because of its refreshing flavors and because it seems to go with virtually every meal. There are a few wines that just seem to get drunk much faster than others ("maybe we need to open another bottle"). This is definitely one of them.
