Every time I visit Paul Garaudet, he gives me a taste of his Bourgogne Blanc, accompanied by the caveat that this taste is "just for pleasure" as he doesn't make enough to give me an allocation - the wine is already all pre-sold to some long-time European importer friends who have bought it every year for decades.

Of course my parents had heard this for who knows how many years before I joined our family business, but I've checked my notes and my first taste of this wine was the 2007 vintage. I've tasted it every year since then - and asked for it every year since then, always without success. Well guess what, one of his European importers finally dropped out of the game last year and I've swooped up his allocation! Last year I brought in the 2012 and it sold out in a flash and I now have the 2013 here and ready to thrill our palates.

Bourgogne Blanc is a difficult wine to purchase blind because so much depends on the quality of the winemaker and the quality of the vineyards. It can come from just about anywhere in Burgundy, afterall. That's why I was so eager to snag Paul Garaudet's Bourgogne Blanc because it is so superior to so many others I have tasted.

The vines for Paul's Bourgogne Blanc are located in Burgundy's Cote d'Or in the town of Meursault (though not within the designated geography of the Meursault appellation - if they were, the wine would cost much more). Half the vines are 38 years old and the other half are old vines more than 50 years old. Older vines yield fewer grapes, making wines of greater concentration and power.

Paul's Bourgogne Blanc is a study in charm and elegance. It is round and rich with tongue-nipping acidity, stony minerality, and pronounced fruit. It is a beautiful expression of Burgundy Chardonnay.

To say that Paul Garaudet is not big on email is an understatement. It was only very recently that he acquired an email address and he seems to view it as a means for people to leave him messages, like an answering machine, rather than as a medium for two-way communication. Invariably, when I send him an email he calls me back on the phone rather than typing out his reply. His voice is deep and booming and distinctive. When Paul calls, I know it is him before he is halfway through greeting me with his customary "Bonjour Margot, ca va?"

Paul's wines are equally unmistakable - they are authentically and conspicuously Burgundian from the very first sip. Today for the first time I am offering Paul's Bourgogne Blanc 2013, a 100% Chardonnay gem and a true taste of Burgundy at a price that puts it within range to be enjoyed on a regular basis.

-Margot Hurley, Cynthia Hurley French Wines