Who doesn't feel a little giddy at the prospect of a glass of sparkling wine? There's the tantalizing build-up: the ritual of peeling back the foil, untwisting the wire cage, finally popping the cork, those first frothy bubbles pouring forth into a slender flute - opening a bottle of sparkling wine releases much more than a little CO2. Sparkling wine lets everyone know that something wonderful has just happened - or is about to.

If your yearly consumption of sparkling is limited to toasts at weddings, promotions, Christmas and New Year's Eve, you are sorely under-bubbled.

If you have to make a special trip to the local wine shop every time you feel like a little celebration, it's unlikely you're enjoying much sparkling wine. If you have merely a single bottle stored away -for the right occasion- chances are it has been gathering dust for a while as you hesitate to pop the cork spontaneously, thinking to yourself, "maybe I should save it..."

In France, it is common for dinner parties to start with a glass of sparkling as an aperitif, serving both to stimulate the appetite and set a festive mood. Sparkling wine is an always-appreciated gift, it says "congratulations!" with unparalleled class, and keeping a case or two on hand makes for many a spontaneous celebration. All good things.

The problem with sparkling wine from Champagne is that a minimally acceptable bottle will set you back $50. Spend anything less than an Ulysses S. Grant and you're probably not going to be happy if you care about what the wine actually tastes like after the fleeting fun of the pop.

The good news is that my French wine philosophy holds true even when it comes to sparkling: French wine doesn't have to be expensive to be great - search lesser-known appellations where the quality-price ratio is outstanding and you'll find excellent values on excellent wines.

I searched all over Burgundy, Alsace and the Loire, and when I found this pair of sparklers from Domaine J.Laurens in Limoux in the south of France I knew right away that I had found what I was looking for. For less than half the price of an equivalent Champagne, these wines have got the bubbles to get the party started and - more importantly - they don't let the flavor fall flat.

The white sparkling Domaine J.Laurens Cremant Blanc is an exceptional wine - a tête de cuvée - upon which Domaine J. Laurens has built their reputation.

This Cremant de Limoux is a wine first, a sparkling wine second. By this I mean that the aromatics, flavor, and complexity of their les Graimenous stand on their own without taking a back seat to the bubbles. The first impression yields an intense and complex nose of citrus and dried fruits, honey with a touch of Granny Smith.

On the palate, you will find all the expression of a well-rounded wine, a hint of toast with an aftertaste of fresh fruits and lime. Les Graimenous is composed of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Chenin Blanc with the remaining 10% split between Pinot Noir and the local Mauzac.

Domaine J.Laurens' Cremant Rosé N°7 is made of nearly the same blend of grapes, the only difference is that in the Rosé the 5% Mauzac is replaced with an extra 5% of Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir gives the pale cherry color but also a certain fullness to the wine, which boasts a palate of light red fruits. The bubbles are delicate and the style is fresh and dry, not overly sweet. As with the white, it is entirely hand-harvested and it is low in alcohol.

It is fitting that I found these wines in Limoux, because I often end up at the source in my searches for the best and the best values, and Limoux is the original source of sparkling wine in France . Champagne made it famous, but Limoux did it first - all the way back in 1531.

Put a little sparkle in your wine drinking, without spending more than you would on a regular bottle of wine, and without sacrificing flavor. It's almost Friday, lets celebrate. -Margot Hurley, Cynthia Hurley French Wines