Essential Winter Pruning
by Mel Kersey
Winter pruning is a crucial element to having a beautiful landscape in spring. Knowing how and when to do this pruning makes all the difference. In this issue of The Scoop, we'll discuss 4 different types of plants 1. Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) Pruning crape myrtles is a controversial topic. You've probably seen this in your neighborhood or city: crape myrtles being butchered into stumps which resemble a knuckled fist sticking out of the ground. In fact, this sight is so common that many people assume it's the correct way to prune them. However, educators in horticulture refer to this pruning style as "rape of the crape" or "crape murder". Why? Because cutting them back to those ugly knots every year creates clusters of new sprouts which grow rapidly and cannot lift the weight of their own blossoms. The question is: why would you want the crape murder results of stunted bushy clumps of twigs too weak to support their own blooms, when you can have strong graceful branches (covered in decorative peeling bark on mature trunks) full of heavy colorful blossoms reaching up to the summer sky? Proper pruning makes all the difference. Standard crape myrtles should be allowed to grow into well-formed trees, with long elegant trunks and muscular limbs free from knuckles, suckers and knots. There are 2 key pruning factors that make this happen: 1) timing and 2) technique. Timing
Crapes grow quickly and they bloom on new growth. Timing is crucial for pruning them - do it too early in a harsh winter, such as the winter of 2013/14, and they will die. Do it too late and they will not reach their best blooming potential. The Knoxville metropolitan area is in Gardening Zone 7a, which means our midwinter temperatures can be expected to reach 0 degrees. Therefore Crapes in Zone 7 should not be pruned here until late February to minimize their chance of dying.
Technique
Pruning redirects the tree's energy. For beautiful trunks without scars, plus the benefit of decorative peeling bark, select a grouping of 3 to 5 primary trunks and remove all others at ground level. Never leave stubs. These 3 to 5 trunks should be kept clean of interior "suckers", or immature shoots, which waste the trees energy. Try to prune suckers before they grow thicker than a pencil. Remove any crossing/rubbing branches (which can cause sores and scars), or those growing in toward the center of the plant. Gradually remove all side branches from the main trunks up to a height of 5 feet, within the first 3 years. With this structure in place, it may be helpful to think of correct crape myrtle pruning as "dead heading" or a light trim, rather than amputating limbs with a saw. For a beautiful upper canopy, use a pole lopper to remove only the top 1 to 3 feet of the tips (in proportion to the size of the tree).With these pruning guidelines, you will direct the tree's energy upward and outward into a "fountain" shape, forming a bright blooming canopy supported by long graceful legs.
Sources: University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service; Southern Living, Guide to Crape Myrtles 2. Ornamental Grasses Ornamental grasses have enjoyed a great deal of popularity over the past 30 years or so. Easy to maintain and resistant to pests and disease, they provide cost-effective visual impact. With a wide range of sizes, shapes and colors, ornamental grasses can add structure and texture to your landscape design, whether as a background planting, a screening material or as stand-alone specimens.Grasses that emerge in late spring can fill gaps left by flowering bulbs and early perennials. The "plumage" (seed heads), of late-season grasses adds ornamental value lasting into the winter months. Most like full sun; some like shade. Some grow easily in bog or water gardens; others handle the heat and drought of mid-summer. Some spread while others clump in one place. As a group, they tend to stay free of disease and insects. When to Prune
Here in Gardening Zone 7a, our lowest winter temperatures can kill ornamental grasses that have been weakened by premature pruning. Foliage helps to insulate the crown of the plant. Also, they offer eye-catching movement and subtle variations in color during the bleakest and barest winter months. When to prune? Wait until late February, and possibly select a day to group this task with pruning your crape myrtles.
How to Prune
The final look we suggest for a pruned native grass is a "crew cut". We suggest the following 4 tools for pruning your ornamental grasses: hedge shears, a rope or cord, a tarp and a leaf rake.
- Bundle individual grasses tightly with a rope or cord at 4 to 6 inches above the ground. This controls the mess and provides a cutting guide for the shearer to achieve a clean cut.
- Using gas or electric shears, shear the grass just above the rope/cord. It's good to have a second person grab the cut grass as you slice your way through the bundled plant. It's not necessary to cut all the way through in one go. You can cut bit by bit until the crew cut is completed.
- Place sheared plant debris on tarp as you go for quick cleanup of each plant.
- Use a rake to collect any cuttings from the ground.
- Tie up corners of the tarp and drag to disposal point.
When the dead foliage is removed, spring growth will sprout earlier. Old foliage left on the plant can delay the crown's warming and subsequent growth by as much as 3 weeks. So follow these 5 recommended steps for happier, healthier ornamental grasses. Sources: University of Tennessee, Home Garden, Lawn and Landscape/UT Extension Publications, University of Illinois Extension, Urban Programs Resource Network 3. Monkey Grass (Liriope) Liriope, commonly called "monkey grass", is a popular groundcover for landscape gardeners. It comes in many varieties and can tolerate a wide range of growing conditions. Monkey grass makes an excellent border material for beds and pathways, and grows well in steep areas where mowing may not be practical. Despite its nickname, monkey grass is a member of the lily family, rather than a grass. Its durability and low maintenance characteristics make it an attractive choice. It requires only one pruning per year to maintain a healthy appearance. What's the best way to prune monkey grass? Raise your push mower to the highest setting, using the bagger attachment to catch all of the clippings, and simply mow it to a neat uniform height. This removes older growth that may have browned or grown shaggy, restoring a compact shape to each plant and clearing the way for fresh shoots to emerge in spring.If planted in spaces too tight for a push mower, hand shears or power trimmers can be used to achieve the same effect. Even though monkey grass is durable, extreme cold can damage it, creating browned or blackened edges on its foliage. Waiting until late winter to cut it greatly reduces the risk of freeze damage. By following these recommendations you'll get the maximum enjoyment from your monkey grass. 4. Lenten Roses (Helleborus orientalis) The Lenten rose gets its name from the time of the religious calendar in which it blooms: Lent, the 40 days preceding Easter Sunday. They form clumps around 12 inches tall and up to 24 inches wide with evergreen foliage and long-lasting blooms. They are among the earliest perennials to bloom, creating a subtle blooming carpet of colorful groundcover. Lenten roses grow best in partial sun to full shade, making them a great feature for shade gardens. They prefer moist, well-drained soil. They do not transplant well but are good self-propagators. Resistant to cold, deer and voles, these perennial workhorses require little maintenance. February is a good time to prune away the ragged or frostbitten outer foliage. The buds typically form close to the inner core of the plant, leaving the outer foliage free for pruning. Avoiding the buds, cut away any tattered foliage to make way for fresh growth. This will allow the forthcoming blooms to be seen in their full glory. For large groupings of plants, a push mower with a bag has been successfully used to achieve a uniform, well-kept appearance.
Summary Late winter pruning sets the stage for a healthy, colorful spring. For each of the four plants discussed here, February is the best month to prune. It takes some extra effort and will power to prune in cold weather, but the results will speak for themselves. Good luck, wrap up warmly and have some gardening fun! |