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March 2015
Upcoming Events:
HBAGK Home Show
March 13th - 15th
Knox Convention Ctr
Fri (13th) 12 PM-6 PM
Sat (14th) 10 AM-7 PM
Sun (15th) 12 PM-6 PM

Employee Spotlight: 

 

We would like to introduce our new marketing manager, Kelly Bekele, to the Earthadelic team! Kelly is a recent grad of UT. She has a passion for home improvement and gardening and is a talented photographer. She will be a perfect fit for this position and we can't wait to see what great things she will do for Earthadelic!

 


 Only 1% of the world's fresh water is accessible for direct human uses. This is the water found in lakes, rivers, reservoirs and those underground sources that are shallow enough to be tapped at an affordable cost. 

 

 

March Gardening Tips: 

 

 - Refresh container plantings with spring flowering bulbs.
- As new growth appears throughout the garden apply fertilizer and minerals to help support vigorous growth. 

- Apply fertilizer after the first mowing of the season for lush grass.

- Amend the soil with compost or manure to enrich soil.

March Means:

 

Planning fresh ideas!

Need Help?

 

Checkout all the services we offer:

 

Hardscapes 

 

Landscape design & installation

 

Lawn maintenance

 

Pool decks, renovation, and maintenance

 

Water features

Essential Winter Pruning
by Mel Kersey

Winter pruning is a crucial element to having a beautiful landscape in spring. Knowing how and when to do this pruning makes all the difference. In this issue of The Scoop, we'll discuss 4 different types of plants

 

1. Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica)

Pruning crape myrtles is a controversial topic. You've probably seen this in your neighborhood or city: crape myrtles being butchered into stumps which resemble a knuckled fist sticking out of the ground. In fact, this sight is so common that many people assume it's the correct way to prune them. However, educators in horticulture refer to this pruning style as "rape of the crape" or "crape murder". Why? Because cutting them back to those ugly knots every year creates clusters of new sprouts which grow rapidly and cannot lift the weight of their own blossoms. The question is: why would you want the crape murder results of stunted bushy clumps of twigs too weak to support their own blooms, when you can have strong graceful branches (covered in decorative peeling bark on mature trunks) full of heavy colorful blossoms reaching up to the summer sky? Proper pruning makes all the difference. Standard crape myrtles should be allowed to grow into well-formed trees, with long elegant trunks and muscular limbs free from knuckles, suckers and knots. There are 2 key pruning factors that make this happen: 1) timing and 2) technique.

 

Timing 

Crapes grow quickly and they bloom on new growth. Timing is crucial for pruning them - do it too early in a harsh winter, such as the winter of 2013/14, and they will die. Do it too late and they will not reach their best blooming potential. The Knoxville metropolitan area is in Gardening Zone 7a, which means our midwinter temperatures can be expected to reach 0 degrees. Therefore Crapes in Zone 7 should not be pruned here until late February to minimize their chance of dying.

 

Technique 

Pruning redirects the tree's energy. For beautiful trunks without scars, plus the benefit of decorative peeling bark, select a grouping of 3 to 5 primary trunks and remove all others at ground level. Never leave stubs. These 3 to 5 trunks should be kept clean of interior "suckers", or immature shoots, which waste the trees energy. Try to prune suckers before they grow thicker than a pencil. Remove any crossing/rubbing branches (which can cause sores and scars), or those growing in toward the center of the plant. Gradually remove all side branches from the main trunks up to a height of 5 feet, within the first 3 years. With this structure in place, it may be helpful to think of correct crape myrtle pruning as "dead heading" or a light trim, rather than amputating limbs with a saw. For a beautiful upper canopy, use a pole lopper to remove only the top 1 to 3 feet of the tips (in proportion to the size of the tree).With these pruning guidelines, you will direct the tree's energy upward and outward into a "fountain" shape, forming a bright blooming canopy supported by long graceful legs.

 

 Sources: University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service; Southern Living, Guide to Crape Myrtles

 

2. Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses have enjoyed a great deal of popularity over the past 30 years or so. Easy to maintain and resistant to pests and disease, they provide cost-effective visual impact. With a wide range of sizes, shapes and colors, ornamental grasses can add structure and texture to your landscape design, whether as a background planting, a screening material or as stand-alone specimens.Grasses that emerge in late spring can fill gaps left by flowering bulbs and early perennials. The "plumage" (seed heads), of late-season grasses adds ornamental value lasting into the winter months. Most like full sun; some like shade. Some grow easily in bog or water gardens; others handle the heat and drought of mid-summer. Some spread while others clump in one place. As a group, they tend to stay free of disease and insects.

 

When to Prune 

Here in Gardening Zone 7a, our lowest winter temperatures can kill ornamental grasses that have been weakened by premature pruning. Foliage helps to insulate the crown of the plant. Also, they offer eye-catching movement and subtle variations in color during the bleakest and barest winter months. When to prune? Wait until late February, and possibly select a day to group this task with pruning your crape myrtles.

 

How to Prune 

The final look we suggest for a pruned native grass is a "crew cut". We suggest the following 4 tools for pruning your ornamental grasses: hedge shears, a rope or cord, a tarp and a leaf rake.
  • Bundle individual grasses tightly with a rope or cord at 4 to 6 inches above the ground. This controls the mess and provides a cutting guide for the shearer to achieve a clean cut.
  •  Using gas or electric shears, shear the grass just above the rope/cord. It's good to have a second person grab the cut grass as you slice your way through the bundled plant. It's not necessary to cut all the way through in one go. You can cut bit by bit until the crew cut is completed.
  • Place sheared plant debris on tarp as you go for quick cleanup of each plant.
  • Use a rake to collect any cuttings from the ground.
  • Tie up corners of the tarp and drag to disposal point.

When the dead foliage is removed, spring growth will sprout earlier. Old foliage left on the plant can delay the crown's warming and subsequent growth by as much as 3 weeks. So follow these 5 recommended steps for happier, healthier ornamental grasses.

 

Sources: University of Tennessee, Home Garden, Lawn and Landscape/UT Extension Publications, University of Illinois Extension, Urban Programs Resource Network

 

3. Monkey Grass (Liriope)

Liriope, commonly called "monkey grass", is a popular groundcover for landscape gardeners. It comes in many varieties and can tolerate a wide range of growing conditions. Monkey grass makes an excellent border material for beds and pathways, and grows well in steep areas where mowing may not be practical. Despite its nickname, monkey grass is a member of the lily family, rather than a grass. Its durability and low maintenance characteristics make it an attractive choice. It requires only one pruning per year to maintain a healthy appearance. What's the best way to prune monkey grass? Raise your push mower to the highest setting, using the bagger attachment to catch all of the clippings, and simply mow it to a neat uniform height. This removes older growth that may have browned or grown shaggy, restoring a compact shape to each plant and clearing the way for fresh shoots to emerge in spring.If planted in spaces too tight for a push mower, hand shears or power trimmers can be used to achieve the same effect. Even though monkey grass is durable, extreme cold can damage it, creating browned or blackened edges on its foliage. Waiting until late winter to cut it greatly reduces the risk of freeze damage. By following these recommendations you'll get the maximum enjoyment from your monkey grass.

 

4. Lenten Roses (Helleborus orientalis)

The Lenten rose gets its name from the time of the religious calendar in which it blooms: Lent, the 40 days preceding Easter Sunday. They form clumps around 12 inches tall and up to 24 inches wide with evergreen foliage and long-lasting blooms. They are among the earliest perennials to bloom, creating a subtle blooming carpet of colorful groundcover. Lenten roses grow best in partial sun to full shade, making them a great feature for shade gardens. They prefer moist, well-drained soil. They do not transplant well but are good self-propagators. Resistant to cold, deer and voles, these perennial workhorses require little maintenance. February is a good time to prune away the ragged or frostbitten outer foliage. The buds typically form close to the inner core of the plant, leaving the outer foliage free for pruning. Avoiding the buds, cut away any tattered foliage to make way for fresh growth. This will allow the forthcoming blooms to be seen in their full glory. For large groupings of plants, a push mower with a bag has been successfully used to achieve a uniform, well-kept appearance.

 

Summary

Late winter pruning sets the stage for a healthy, colorful spring. For each of the four plants discussed here, February is the best month to prune. It takes some extra effort and will power to prune in cold weather, but the results will speak for themselves. Good luck, wrap up warmly and have some gardening fun!

Digging In: Greywater
by Mel Kersey
Water: it may be the most valuable resource on Earth. Without it, the air we breathe would soon disappear. Nature's balance of air and water make human life possible here on Planet Earth. Yet most days we happily take water for granted. Unless you live in a drought zone, it's there when we need it and it's reasonably affordable.


However the future supply of clean, usable water is not as secure as we might like. Just ask anyone who lives in California, Arizona or South Florida. As any gardener knows, it can take lot of water to keep plants healthy. In recent years there has been an upsurge in recycling household water from sinks, bath/showers and washing machines for irrigating gardens. This household water is called greywater, and there is a growing variety of systems to capture and store it for reuse in gardens and planting beds.

  

Greywater is best understood as washwater. It is in a different category from blackwater, which is sewage from toilets. It represents an important way to reduce your water bill while helping the environment. Basically, any water, other than toilet wastes, draining from a household is greywater. Although this used water may contain grease, food particles, hair, and other impurities, it may still be suitable for reuse. Reusing greywater serves 2 purposes: it reduces the amount of freshwater needed to supply a household, and reduces the amount of waste water entering sewer or septic systems.


Uses For Greywater

According to experts at the University of New Mexico, "the amount and quality of greywater will in part determine how it can be reused. Irrigation and toilet flushing are two common uses, but nearly any non-contact use is a possibility.

 

Greywater is suitable for irrigating lawns, trees, ornamentals, and food crops. Though irrigation methods in greenhouses may differ greatly from outdoor irrigation, several guidelines for use of greywater apply to both situations.

  • Apply greywater directly to the soil, not through a sprinkler or any method that would allow contact with the above-ground portion of the plants.
  • Root crops which are eaten uncooked should not be irrigated with greywater.
  • Plants that thrive only in acid soil should not be watered with greywater, which is alkaline.
  • Use greywater only on well-established plants, not seedlings or young plants.
  • Disperse greywater over a large area, and rotate with fresh water to avoid buildup of sodium salts.

How to Capture and StoreAccording to the University of Arizona's Water Resources Research Center, between 60 and 65 percent of the water that goes down a home's drain has the potential to be reused. That's a lot of water!


Greywater reclamation can lower both your water and sewage bills. Additionally, reusing gray water's otherwise wasted nutrients from soap (nitrogenandphosphorous) and food (potassium) can sustain plant life and recharge topsoil. However, recycling gray water requires more effort, brings the risk of contamination and pollution if mismanaged, and adds installation and upkeep costs for more involved systems.(http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/green-science/gray-water-reclamation.htm)


 
California and the desert Southwest are leading innovations in this green industry, mainly due to ongoing drought problems and increasing demand for fresh water. Three basic greywater reclamation systems are commonly used. The main differences involve the scope, complexity and cost of the reclamation process.


Manual bucketing (low-tech) - simply drain your greywater directly into portable containers that you can use to water gardens and potted plants. The process can be as simple as taking an empty bucket in when you shower, then water a tree or shrubs with the greywater you collected.

 

Diversion (medium-tech) - a basic plumbing system that drains greywater directly from your bathtub or sink and distributes it outside through underground irrigation pipes.

 

Treatment (high-tech) - the treatment method takes the diversion system one step further by routing greywater through a treatment system that cleanses the water -- sometimes enough to be safely stored or used to flush toilets inside the home. Simpler systems employ a physical filtration system, but more advanced systems further remove contaminants through the use of chemical treatment.

 

Although drought has not been an issue this year in East Tennessee, future planning always pays dividends. We can learn a good deal from our neighbors in the Western states.  To find out more about specific treatment systems, contact Mel Kersey for a list of options. [email protected] 
Customer Showcase  

The Madden Project


The Objectives: 
Restoring a worn down, tired 1950's back porch that was failing structurally, and Developing a unique and therapeutic outdoor environment.  This are of the property had been neglected for much of it's lifespan so the vision called for a complete overhaul thus inspiring an entire new setting for this area.  Expansion of the original space was instrumental in offering the right scale and feel for the desired outdoor effect while keeping in tune with the original architecture of the home.    

The Challenge:  Due to it's age and overall neglect for maintenance or improvements, the primary back porch foundation was in a state of disrepair.  This required a complete demolition and installation of a new concrete slab to which would later be overlaid with Bluestone.  Slope and elevation played a key role in marrying the original porch footprint to the new and stylish patio surround.  Furthermore, the rectilinear architecture of the home needed softening which proved tricky given the parameters presented by the original back porch footprint and sloped nature of the surroundings.

The Design Solution: The design approach was filled with simple elegance. It features a flagstone walkway that gently meanders to a matching patio and fire pit capped in natural stone, along with a serpentine seating wall that creates an enjo   yable place to take in the fire. And finally, the entire outdoor living space is surrounded by a beautiful perennial garden and a custom, raised organic gardening bed for herbs and vegetables.


The Installation Approach: On the very first day, Steve noticed that his firepit was going to be larger than he had expected. Once this was brought to the hardscape team's attention, they were able to collaborate with him to ensure everything was exactly how he pictured it. The foundation was laid in a timely manner followed by the stonework. Our hardscape craftsmen produced their usual artwork by laying multicolored flagstone onto the firepit and the surrounding seating wall. When Steve saw the results after returning from work that day, his wide-eyed expression and smile let the team know they had exceeded the customer's expectations once again. The flagstone patio and planter were installed next, completing the project.

  

The Result: The design approach was filled with simple elegance. It features a flagstone walkway that gently meanders to a matching patio and fire pit capped in natural stone, along with a serpentine seating wall that creates an enjoyable place to take in the fire. And finally, the entire outdoor living space is surrounded by a beautiful perennial garden and a custom, raised organic gardening bed for herbs and vegetables.

 

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